Australian/New Zealand Dessert Wines

When you stop to think about dessert wines, it shouldn't be surprising that Australia, settled by people from a country where Portuguese and Spanish "fortified" wines were popular, would also produce similarly-styled wines to those produced in Europe.

In fact, through the first half or so of the 20th century, most wines produced in Australia were "fortified" wines such as Muscats, or Sherry and Port-styled wines.  The latter half of the 20th century has seen the tides shift to table wine production.

The Australians call dessert wines "stickies". 

In addition to some glorious fortified wines, producers of Semillon often make wines from botrytized grapes (a mold which dehydrates them, concentrating the character of the fruit and contributing a honey-like quality to the wines).  We even see some late-picked Rieslings from Australia which can be remarkable. 

The major region for top quality fortified wines is Victoria, specifically north-east Victoria. 

Especially fine are the dessert wines labeled "Muscat", "Tokay" and "Port". 

The wines labeled as "Tokay" are made from a grape which is either the same or related to the very minor variety used in many French Sauternes wines:  Muscadelle.   Australian "Tokay" has little to do with those wines produced in Hungary.   Nor is it related to the Italian variety from Friuli which goes by the name "Tocai".  Nor is it similar to France's "Tokay-Pinot Gris" wine.  

"Port"-styled wines are also of serious quality.  The most famous is Seppelt's "Para Liqueur Tawny Port", but Penfolds makes a good one as does Yalumba and a small producer called Sevenhills.  These are rarely made of traditional Portuguese "Port" varieties, but Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Aussies are extremely patient in waiting for these wines to mature, as most are in the style of a Tawny Port.  Seppelts, for example, has more than a hundred years' worth of Port-styled wines aging and releases a tiny amount of 100 year-old "Para Liqueur Tawny Port" each year.   Too bad they don't sell these here!  (We do have a nice, basic Port from them, however.)

Some of the dessert Muscats are also patiently matured in wood and these easily rival the famous Setubal wines of Portugal or some of the wood-matured Muscat wines from the Sherry region of Spain. 

Some Aussie/New Zealand Dessert Wines in Stock:

SELAKS 2002 Marlborough RIESLING/GEWURZTRAMINER
"ICE WINE"  $17.99  375ml

The Selaks winery (and accompanying restaurant) was purchased by the large Nobilo firm a few years ago.  Nobilo itself is possibly being sold to the Australian "Hardy's" conglomerate.
In any case, they make a fantabulous "Ice Wine" from Riesling.  Plenty of fruit.  Plenty of residual sugar, yet accompanied by ample acidity to keep it fresh and lively.  The 2002 version incorporates both Riesling and Gewürztraminer.  
And, best of all it arrives on these shores with a reasonable price tag!  Pair it with fresh fruit desserts. 

SEPPELTS "Show Tokay" Sold Out 

SEPPELTS "Trafford" Tawny Port $9.99

As noted above, Seppelts has a phenomenal range of "fortified" dessert wines.   I've purchased tasting samples (one must do one's homework, you know) and found the Show Tokay to be really different and exceptional.  I suppose the highest compliment I can give is that I frequently put this on the coffee table for guests at dinner "Chez Moi".  The wine is brown in color and has a fabulously fragrant nose reminiscent of coffee, mocha and toasted nuts.  I've served it with a variety of desserts, chocolate ones, particularly.  A spectacular match was pairing it with a hazelnut cream cake. 



Unfortunately the lack of sales success is causing these to be withdrawn from the market.  We have purchased what we've been told are the final US labeled bottles of this delicious wine.

Meanwhile, they've recently introduced a superb little "Tawny Port" styled dessert wine called "Trafford."

This is a dessert wine produced from Barossa Valley Shiraz and Grenache.  You'll find the nutty, or rancio, notes typical of good, classic Portuguese 10, 20, 30 and 40 year old Ports.  But you'll find it for just ten bucks. 

Their Para Port in its unique "squat" bottle apparently didn't sell very well and those are not currently available.

SEVENHILL 1988 "Vintage Port"  $28.99

SEVENHILL "Tawny Port"  $21.99

Founded by some Jesuit order in the 1850s, this property began producing Sacramental wines exclusively.  Now they make table wines, too, and you don't have to be a Jesuit brother to enjoy their wines, thank god!  The Tawny Port is made of Shiraz and is something like 8-10 years in wood before bottling.  The Vintage Port is a big, deep, rich rascal, also worthy of the adjective "heavenly" (especially with rich chocolate!).    This winery is located in the Clare Valley. 

YALUMBA "Clocktower Tawny Port"  $10.99-750ml

YALUMBA "Galway Pipe Port" $34.99750ml

YALUMBA "Museum Reserve Muscat"  $15.99 -375ml

So Yalumba's been around since 1863...no wonder they're good at producing Port and Muscat wines of special quality.  The Clocktower is a smooth, lighter Port, while the Galway Pipe Port has a more fine bouquet and longer finish on the palate.  

The Muscat is intensely fruity and with a somewhat honey-like quality to the finish. 

Their 50 year old Tawny Port seems to not be available currently and the local rep says they've discontinued it.  Too bad.

PENFOLDS "Club Port"  $12.99

PENFOLDS "Grandfather Port"  $69.99

The "Club Port" is certainly nice enough and reasonably priced.  The "Grandfather Port" is made of Shiraz and Mataro and is claimed to be about 20 years old.  You'll find it rather light in color and with a nutty quality somewhat akin to the "rancio" notes you find in fine, old Sherry wines.    

CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD

The Chambers' family has been making sweet wines in Australia since the late 1850s and it seems, over the course of time, they've perfected the recipe.

We've tasted some delicious wines from this firm, a specialist in Muscadelle (Tokay) and Muscat.    They make three "levels" of dessert wines.

We usually have some bottles of their basic Muscat in the shop.  This is a delicious, sweet, raisiny dessert wine.  

The middle level is called "Special" and the solera (stack of barrels from which the wine of the bottom row is bottled and replenished with wine from the next row of barrels above it which is younger) is said to date back to the 1920s.  

The top tier of wines are designated "Rare" and these, we're told, hail back more than 100 years.

Currently in stock:  Chambers Rosewood Muscat $15.99 (375ml)

Available by special order:  Prices accurate as of January 2005
(Subject to change)
 
Grand Muscat $74.99 (375ml)
Rare Muscadelle $299.99 (375ml)
Muscat $14.99 (375ml)

D'ARENBERG

This outstanding producer dabbles in making a Port-styled wine from Shiraz.

It is typically quite dark, teeming with berry and spice notes and has a long, sweet finish.  

Currently available by special order: 2000 Vintage Port $17.99 (375ml)




ROSEMOUNT

Rosemount isn't terribly well-known for dessert wine, since they make primarily table wines.  But they do offer a small amount of something called "Old Benson" Tawny Port.  I mentioned this to Mrs. Benson when she stopped by the shop recently, but she didn't think Mr. Benson was worth spending $30 on for a bottle of dessert wine.

Available by special order:  Old Benson Tawny Port  $29.99 (500ml)





R. L. BULLER

These wines come from the Rutherglen area of Victoria and are amongst the most highly-prized.

Their Muscat is very fine, too.  It is very intense, displaying nutty notes and some fragrances recalling rose petals.  

Available:  Fine Muscat $13.99 (375ml) 
By Special order:
Fine Tokay $13.99 (375ml)
Rare Tokay $71.99 (375ml)






CHATEAU REYNELLA

They call one of their dessert wines "Old Cave" Tawny Port and it comes from fruit grown in the McLaren Vale.  There's also a "Vintage" styled Port.  

 

Currently available: Old Cave Tawny Port  $17.99 (500ml)
McLaren Vale Vintage Port $18.99 (750ml)