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California Pinot Noir Page 1

 

CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS

wpe6.jpg (11782 bytes)Having its home in both Burgundy and Champagne, Pinot Noir has been in California for many years, probably since the late 1800s.  It is a fussy and finicky grape variety, prone to genetic changes which means there are many "clones" of Pinot Noir. 

The grape tends to produce wines which have much less color than Cabernet or Zinfandel, for example.  I have seen, in many tastings, wines which are color-poor, but, curiously,  have the most intense fragrance.  Tasters are frequently swayed by the color and appearance of a wine and cannot credit a weakly colored wine with having more intensity to its "nose" than deeper colored/less fragrant wines. 

NA02221_.WMF (16510 bytes)Years ago, it was not uncommon for California winemakers to "fortify" their Pinot Noirs with something such as Petite Sirah.  The wines had great color and, perhaps, a bit more body and tannin, but the peppery Petite Sirah detracted or overwhelmed the subtle and delicate cherry-like Pinot Noir fruit.  

Curiously, in France's Burgundy, it was said vintners or negociants routinely beefed up their wines with some deeper red from the south of France (or Algeria, which was a major wine-exporting region once-upon-a-time!).   A Burgundy house was recently discovered to have been selling wines illegally blended with stronger red wine from outside the appellation.  (Quel surprise!)  
The temptation is great to make beefier wines, as critics and their audiences, often find "bigger is better."

I am certain some local vintners still adulterate (or "enhance," depending upon one's perspective) their Pinot Noirs with darker, stronger varieties.  One prominent winery owner chided me for even asking such a question, though he would not declare that his wines were 100% Pinot Noir!

It seems that Pinot Noir varies according to clone, soil, exposure, climate and we haven't even discussed vinification.  Many Burgundy winemakers will tell you their wine does not reflect the Pinot Noir grape, but instead the grape reflects the terroir.

Some producers will tell you the juice should be kept at a cold temperature (which inhibits fermentation) and macerated on the skins for a week before fermentation is initiated.  Other winemakers say this is a recipe for disaster.  Some winemakers claim to ferment with the stems, while others say this is not the way to make good Pinot Noir. 

As you can understand, controversy abounds!

FD00985_.wmf (4442 bytes)The aromas of Pinot Noir vary as a result of so many of the factors enumerated above.  We prefer to find bright fruit aromas, reminiscent of cherry or strawberry.   We like a bit of vanillin from the oak. 

Some Pinots have a gamey quality to them.  In his book entitled "BURGUNDY" by Anthony Hanson, this expert writes "Great Burgundy smells of shit.  It is most surprising, but something the French recognized long ago, a sent la merde and a sent le purin being common expressions on the C˘te.  Not always, of course;  but frequently there is a smell of decaying matter, vegetable or animal, about them.  This is nothing new."  

Uh, well, we prefer the cherry and berry notes, thank you!

Years ago, there was a school of thought which felt that California was too hot for Pinot Noir.  Oregon enjoyed some notoriety as experts wrangled over which area was producing the best West Coast Pinots.  An east coast tasting, written about in the New York Times (some years ago, now) said the favored wines were Oregon and Burgundy when tasted with the labels exposed.   When the wines were poured for a blind-tasting, California won. 

Today's wine critics are having an impact on Pinot Noir production.  Since the dynamics of most blind tastings (and tastings that are not "blind") is to find the biggest and most intense wines, Pinot Noirs of elegance and refinement are marked down as thin and light, while wines with Syrah colors and Cabernet tannins are now often garnering the highest scores.  

Pinot Noir winemakers are, it seems, interested in picking Pinot Noir as ripe as possible.  One vintner told me the trend is to harvest the fruit when it's close to 16 to 18 percent "potential alcohol."  Then water is added to the juice and the fermentation ensues.  I am not sure what benefits are obtained by picking at this high level of sugar, but it seems to be popular amongst the young winemaking crowd.

The high ratings encourages consumers to buy these sorts of wines and it encourages winemakers to produce this style of Pinot.   

We have noticed the alcohol levels of Pinot Noir are often pushing 14% to 15%, sometimes even more!  It's not about the alcohol, though.  It's about "balance."  Some wines can still be balanced and delicious at a high octane level, while others can be totally out of whack.

We have had some Pinots which were made from such over-ripe fruit, the wines resemble late-picked Zinfandel.  One even has scored in the mid-90s from a prominent critic despite the wine having little in common with Pinot Noir. 

There's an awful Pinot that receives high praise from various publications.  We've had four vintages in tastings and the wine routinely finishes in last place.  All we can figure is the winery sends in samples of someone else's wine (probably French Burgundy, since it is often described as being reminiscent of Grand Cru level wines) and they bottle plonk.  If the wine they send to critics is the same as what they sell, this calls into question the expertise of those writing about wine.

Anyone who claims to be a Pinot aficionado and who tastes California wines such as Etude, Patz & Hall, Harrington, En Route and Dehlinger, and who puts down these wines, simply doesn't understand the subject.  I think you might even add the Siduri and Au Bon Climat and The Ojai Vineyard labels to this list.

 

SOME PINOTS WE LIKE:

ALMA ROSA
Richard Sanford is one of the pioneers in Santa Barbara County wine history.

He teamed with a fellow named Michael Benedict back in the 1970s and planted vineyards in the region that's today known as "Santa Rita Hills."  The pair started a winery called Sanford & Benedict, which later morphed into the Sanford Winery.  I don't know what became of Benedict, but Sanford ran his own place for many years.   In 2005 he and his wife were fired by the import and wine distribution company which invested in the Sanford Winery.

We understand there were major disagreements concerning Sanford's insistence upon organic farming.  His steadfastness to this ideal did not, apparently, sit well with the Terlato/Paterno folks.

Sanford now has launched a new brand called Alma Rosa.  We had their first two Pinot Noirs in a blind-tasting and the wines finished 1st and 2nd!  I especially liked the La Encantada Vineyard bottling and we continue to be pleased by this wine.

We currently have some bottles of Alma Rosa's entry level bottling in the shop...it's a tip of the cap to Richard Sanford and his pioneering efforts in the Santa Rita Hills.

We tasted a 2006 vintage La Encantada Pinot (in 2016).  The wine was bottled with a screw-cap closure, one of the earliest "fine wines" to be offered in this format.  The wine was a delight.  Very good fragrances and still youthful, but developed.  This was a pleasant surprise.

Currently in stock:  2014 ALMA ROSA "Santa Rita Hills" $28.99
2011 ALMA ROSA Santa Rita Hills "La Encantada" PINOT NOIR  Sale $39.99
 





ANTHILL FARMS

Three fellows who studied at the University of Williams-Selyem in Sonoma started a collaborative project which carries the curious name of Anthill Farms.


The curious name stems from someone observing these guys resembling ants scurrying around as they were working in the cellar.  There's also the notion that ants are incredibly strong and each of these fellows has a day job as well as their Anthill project.

The first vintage was 2004 and they made wine on a shoestring.  Starting with a couple of hundred cases, they now make close to 2000 cases annually, we're told.  They were initially able to make wine at one of the fellow's "day job" wineries, but these days the work out of a facility where a dozen brands share a winemaking outpost in Healdsburg.  

We currently have a 2015 vintage Anderson Valley Pinot Noir in stock.  

These guys seem to have a good philosophy with respect to making Pinot Noir...good grapes...no spoofulation...a pre-fermentation cold soak, minimal cellar treatments...let the wine make itself...the usual patter and the wine comes out nicely.  Wood is used judiciously and it's not the focus of their various bottlings of Pinot Noir.  Anthill seeks to highlight the vineyards and not put much of a fingerprint on their wines.

The Anderson Valley bottling may be too subtle for some people.  The alcohol is listed as 13.1%, a rarity these days in California.  The color is lighter than most, as well.  We like the fragrance of Pinot Noir in this wine...it's easily recognizable on the nose and palate and the wine seems to evolve nicely in the glass as it airs and warms (we like to start with the wine at cool cellar temp).    
The tannin level is modest, but it's typically the acidity which allows such a wine to age well.  So if you forget a bottle in your stash of wine bottles, it will probably be a pleasant surprise in 2020 or 2022.

 

Currently in stock:  2015 ANTHILL FARMS Anderson Valley PINOT NOIR  $39.99

 

 

AU BON CLIMAT

One can only imagine the impact on California's legal system had Jim Clendenen graduated from law school!

Instead, he'd had a visit in France and thought he might prefer the world of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay to that of tortes, contracts and people suing the crap out of each other.

The winery was initially the work of partners Adam Tolmach and Jim Clendenen.  Adam eventually left to make his own wines under the Ojai Vineyard banner and and Jim continued making ABC wines.

Clendenen was always a strong personality and this helped his efforts to sell the Au Bon Climat wines.  The \various offerings reflected the personality of Mr. Clendenen, being wines which were not universally-appealing, but bottles which had character and complexity.  

If you were a fan of French Burgundies, there was a good chance you might find the Au Bon Climat wines to have some appeal.

The winery made a lot of Chardonnay in the early days, but today their production of Pinot Noir is said to be roughly equivalent to their Chardonnay.

ABC offers a number of single vineyard Pinots.  



We're fans of the entry level bottling with the Santa Barbara County appellation.  The 2014 is in stock presently.  It usually is blended with a small addition of Mondeuse, a variety which likely contributes a bit of color and body to the wine.  We like the dark berry fruit notes in this wine...it's a shade fuller in body than most Pinots, but still has a measure of charm to it. Think blackberry/blueberry as the sort of fruit character rather than the cherry/vanilla sort of tones you will find in many California Pinots.

 

 

 

Currently in stock:  AU BON CLIMAT 2014 Santa Barbara County PINOT NOIR   Sold Out

 

 


 


BELLE GLOS
Maybe you're a fan of Caymus Cabernets and have wondered what Caymus Pinot Noir would taste like.

Well, I can tell you Caymus used to make Pinot Noir from Rutherford-grown fruit many years ago.  They even made a Pinot Noir Blanc called "Eye of the Partridge."  What fruit they didn't use themselves was sold off to Inglenook. 


Nobody paid much attention to Pinot back then.  Pinot Noir grown in Rutherford!  Never mind that the fruit had short hang time and ripened quickly...all people paid attention to was "Brix" (a measure of the sugar content of the grapes) as though that was some indication of quality.  
((Producers who continue to value sugar without regard to flavors, physiological development of the grapes and acidity are missing the boat, in our view.))


Chuck Wagner must have never gotten rid of the "bug" to make Pinot Noir.  He has about 150 acres in Santa Maria, just north of Santa Barbara.  He's also working on a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir "project."

The Pinot Noir appears not under his Caymus or Mer Soleil labels, but as "Belle Glos."  This is named after Chuck's Mom, Lorna Belle Glos-Wagner.  One of her grandfathers was a grape grower who had a vineyard on Howell Mountain, while the other was a winemaker at Inglenook in the early 1900's!  She's still living on the Caymus property.

Belle Glos Pinots certainly have a following, though we wonder what enhancements they've made to produce wines which have uncharacteristically dark color.
(And you know, to label the wine as Pinot Noir, winemakers have a 25% fudge-factor in place, so fortifying the wine with something darker and more potent is allowed.)


An Italian friend has a term for this sort of winemaking :  Siliconato.

Having seen the direction of this wine and the Wagner's other bottlings, we no longer have Belle Glos and other Wagner family wines.  

They are available by special order, if you like, but we prefer to devote shelf space to brands which we find to have more classic elements of Pinot Noir.




**********

 

They had introduced an entry-level bottling and this wears the brand name "Meiomi."

The name is said to be a Wappo and/or Yuki word referring to the "coast."  And the grapes are sourced from coastal vineyards ranging from Santa Barbara, Monterey and north in Sonoma.

It's an appealing little wine for Pinot Noir neophytes, being nicely fruity with cherry cola sorts of aromas and flavors...best served at cool cellar temp...not a wine for aging, as it's best consumed in its youth.

The Meiomi brand was sold off during the summer of 2015, as the Constellation company acquired the label for a cool $315 Million.  
No acreage.  
No winery.  
Just the brand name and the label.  

Wow...good luck to Constellation and congrats to Joe Wagner for hitting the jackpot!  
We wonder how Constellation will make this work.

Currently in stock:  

BELL GLOS PINOT NOIRS  Available by Special Order
MEIOMI Pinot Noir  Available by Special Order



 
 


PATZ & HALL
The Patz & Hall story began in the mid-1980s when Donald Patz was a marketing guy at Flora Springs and James Hall was assistant winemaker there.  The two eventually went their separate ways, but were pals who decided a collaborative effort would be a challenge.

Add to the mix, Anne Moses (she turns water into wine) and Heather Patz (the glue that holds the place together) and you have a couple of dynamic duos.

They've been making really fine Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays for nearly three decades.  They bottle a regional Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast), along with a number of single vineyard offerings.  

Impressively, the wines have been consistently good.  I don't know if they're attentive in the vineyard and cellar or if they sell off wine in bulk which doesn't make the cut.  But what they choose to put their label on has been reliably fine.

The founders hit the jackpot in the Spring of 2016 when the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates company bought the whole operation.  Patz & Hall say they're sticking around, but we do not know the future of this place.
 
 

Winemaker James Hall.


The 2015 Sonoma Coast is a delightful wine.  It's from a number of famous-named vineyards...Dutton, Martinelli, etc. Lots of nice cherry, pomegranate and berry notes with some brown spice tones such as nutmeg, clove and cinnamon.  The wine is smooth, supple and easy to drink.  It's best at cool cellar temp, of course.  Probably best in its youth, too.



There's a Hyde vineyard bottling of Pinot these days...we've long been fans of the Hyde bottling of Chardonnay.  From the Carneros region, the 2013 displays loads of strawberry fragrances and flavors.  It's wonderfully perfumy, too.  Exotic.  


The Pisoni bottling is one of the best Pisoni vineyard wines on the market...deeply fruity, fairly full as Pinots go...nice now with duck or lamb as there's even a little 'grippy' edge to this wine.

 


Currently in stock: 2015 PATZ & HALL Sonoma Coast PINOT NOIR  (Winery Price $47) SALE $39.99
2013 PATZ & HALL Carneros "HYDE" PINOT NOIR   SOLD OUT

2014 PATZ & HALL Santa Lucia Highlands "PISONI VINEYARD" PINOT NOIR  89.99 (last bottles)


 


 
 
 





ROBERT SINSKEY

For an old, well-established winery, we find Sinskey to be a name that's a little bit below-the-radar of many wine drinkers.  

Part of this lack of notoriety is due, in part, because Sinskey isn't a huge public relations guy.  In fact, he's a bit allergic to many wine publications, not offering free samples of his wines so that some critic can come up with a numerical score to describe and quantify the wine.  When you make wines which are intended for the dinner table and not for beauty contests, this is a perfectly sensible philosophy.

In fact, Rob Sinskey proudly says he's not interested in making a wine that's going to earn a 96 point rating from today's critics.  In fact he says "We don't care what score the wine didnĺt get because we donĺt want to drink what is currently defined as a 96 point Pinot Noir. We prefer to work with nature, grow it well and do  the minimal to make a classically proportioned Pinot Noir."

The Sinskey name has been around for more than three decades and we think they make terrific Pinot Noir these days.  

The story began with Rob Sinskey's father, who was a doctor and wine aficionado.  He bought some land in the Carneros region as the acreage was economical in those days.  He was a bit of a foodie and thought Pinot Noir would be the wine of the future, as it was versatile on the dinner table.  
Doc Sinskey was selling grapes, but then when the "big" winery buying his fruit was sold, the new owners cancelled the contract.  And Sinskey ended up being "paid" for past sales by, essentially, inheriting land in the Stags Leap District which had a winery use permit.  Soon the Sinskey name would be emblazoned on bottles of wine.

Young (at the time) Rob Sinskey had received a degree in fine arts from a school in New York and dad needed help.  Sinskey's been helping ever since.

They have a nice cellar along the Silverado Trail.  It's got a nice patio for tasting their wines under the sun and an indoor tasting bar that's adjacent to a professional kitchen.  Rob's wife is a chef and so combining their talents, visitors are treated to a few pours of Sinskey's wines and Maria Sinskey's culinary treats.

 

 
They have numerous cavernous cellars where their various wines are slumbering until they're ready to bottle.


Cooperage that has been emptied and cleaned are waiting to be placed back in a stack of barrels.



Over the years they'd purchased grapes from neighboring growers to augment their production and finally they decided to just grow their own.  And in the early 1990s they embarked on a program of cultivating grapes biodynamically.  

The 2014 Carneros Pinot Noir is a delight.  
They use heirloom clones of Pinot Noir and the wine is comprised of 32 "lots" of batches, as each parcel is picked and vinified separately.  They source from five estate-owned vineyards in the Carneros region.  The vineyards are harvested at night and the juice is fermented with indigenous yeasts.  It's put into French oak and they use about 30% new wood, enough where you can sense a bit of oak seasoning, but not so much that it shifts the focus from the fruit to the wood.

The wine has beautiful Pinot Noir fragrances with notes of cherry, strawberry and pomegranate. There may even be a faintly floral tone to the fragrances.   As noted earlier, oak is not a main feature of this wine, as they work diligently to showcase the grape in Sinskey wines.  The tannins are modest and it's delicious in its youth and should remain in good condition for a number of years.  
Currently in stock:  2014 ROBERT SINSKEY Carneros PINOT NOIR SALE $43.99





MARGUERITE RYAN CELLARS

Marguerite Ryan, known as "Peggy" to her friends, graduated from law school but then enrolled in the University of Warren Winiarski.  

That "school" has many noteworthy graduates, including Paul Hobbs, John Kongsgaard and Michael Silacci.  Add Peggy Ryan to the list.  

She came to California in the early 1990s and enrolled in some enology classes.  Ryan landed a job at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars doing lab work.  

The Ryan Cellars label was born in 1996 and it's grown from a mere 70 cases of wine to several hundred.  Knowing she tries to make balanced and refined wines, I suppose Mr. Winiarski influence has had a major impact on her winemaking philosophies.  

The Ryan Cellars label has offered Pinot Noirs from several top, famed vineyard sources.  Peay Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation is one.  Another is the famed Pisoni Vineyard, along with other Santa Lucia Highlands sites.  There's also been Pinot Noir from a vineyard in Napa's Wild Horse Valley (where Winiarski used to source Riesling, once upon a time).  And there's been a Pisoni vineyard bottling, too.

Today we have a Sonoma Coast bottling from the 2013 vintage.  The total production is a whopping 42 cases.  Yes...two barrels.  It comes from the Walala Vineyard, a little patch in the northwestern part of the Sonoma Coast appellation.  The Kosta Browne winery has used fruit from this place for its Sonoma Coast bottling.

Ryan's wines tend to be lighter and less oaky, so if you're a Kosta Browne fan, this is probably not a wine you'll find to be to your taste.

 

We like it, though.  But then we don't require a wine to be inky dark in color, have tons of oak (though we do enjoy a bit of wood in some of our wines) or be tannic or sweet.  

Currently in stock: 
2013 RYAN CELLARS "Sonoma Coast" Walala Vineyard  Sold Out

 

 

 

GARNET

The owners of the Saintsbury winery in Napa's Carneros region started making an entry-level bottling of Pinot Noir they dubbed "Garnet."

It was a great bottle of well-priced wine but the tremendous success it had took the spotlight away from their normal bottling of Carneros Pinot, as well as the various single-vineyard wines they made.



 

 

 

Sales of Garnet grew to such a level that they ended up building an entirely separate winemaking facility for it and then, one day in late 2010 or early 2011, they sold the Garnet brand as well as the winery where it was being produced.

The buyer of the brand is the vineyard company which had been supplying Saintsbury with the Pinot Noir grapes, Silverado Winegrowers.  The Silverado bunch owns something like 11,000 acres of vineyards, with holdings for the Garnet brand being situated in Monterey County, Carneros and the Sonoma Coast appellations.

We currently have their 2015 Monterey bottling of Garnet Pinot Noir.  It smells and tastes like good Pinot Noir, is below 14% alcohol and sells for $14.99 a bottle.  This is a remarkably classy wine at what is today's "entry-level" price-point for California wines.

 

 

 

 

 

 



The Garnet folks have dabbled in Sonoma Coast Pinots and their 2012 two-vineyard blend is really good.
The fruit comes from their Rodgers Creek and Petaluma Gap vineyards. 
We included the 2012 in a blind-tasting of Pinot Noirs.  We had Saintsbury and Neyers as the benchmarks, along with 6 other wines from "new" brands or new labels.  This was one of them.
Garnet 2012 was the second least-costly wine in the tasting and it ran away with the first place prize!

What a pleasant surprise, in this day of greedy pricing, to have a wine intended to be priced fairly and honestly for the consumer!

Don't miss it.

 

Currently in stock:  2015 GARNET Monterey County Pinot Noir  Sale $14.99
2012 GARNET Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir  Sale Price $21.99

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MORE PINOT NOIRS

 

 

 

winepour.gif (12696 bytes)Wine Tasting Today

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