|
1997 Clos de Vougeot
August 23, 2000
 Just north of Vosne-Romane and adjacent to
Grands Echzeaux and Echzeaux is where you'll find the 50+ hectares of the walled
vineyard called "Clos de Vougeot."
There are some 82 growers who have a share of this Grand Cru vineyard. There are
said to be six different soil types within the walled area of the vineyard. The best
pieces are higher up, near the chateau of Clos de Vougeot.
In his excellent book "The Great Domaines of Burgundy," Remington Norman writes:
"Jean Grivot used to claim that the best wines came from a mixture of
grapes from both top and bottom sections -- a generously frank sentiment given that some
of his own large plot is right next to the road, marked by an ornate iron gate. In
truth, the skill of the vigneron is probably more important than the location of the
vines, although this may play a negative role in particularly wet or dry years.
However, so ingrained is this idea that one is at pains to find a grower who admits to
having vines at the bottom of the Clos. Most tell you that their patch is 'at the
top', usually adding 'up near the Chateau' for good measure."
Norman also notes the quality can range from "thin, acidic and dreadful
to superb, with the majority being lumpen and tannic without the promise of every
blossoming. Invariably expensive, they often score highly on the
price/disappointment scale."
I had not tipped off the assembled tasting group that we were tasting anything other than
"1997 Burgundies," with a "few wines coming from the Clos de Vougeot."
We found the wines to be, over all, pretty good.
I can't say these are destined to live a long time, since the acidity in1997 seems to be
on the low side due to the very ripe condition of the grapes. I would also agree
with Norman that the prices are high given what's in the bottle. However, in this
day of a "seller's market," producers seem to be able command whatever price
suits them.
Here's the breakdown:
| The Wines |
Gerald's Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
Bob's Rank |
GROUP RANKING |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
DROUHIN-LAROZE
1997 Clos de Vougeot
$75 |
1 |
5 |
8 |
3 |
59 |
4/3/2 |
REN ENGEL
1997 Clos Vougeot
$99 |
7 |
8 |
7 |
8 |
103 |
0/0/6 |
JEAN GRIVOT
1997 Clos de Vougeot
$75 |
8 |
6 |
5 |
7 |
86 |
0/1/4 |
ALAIN HUDELOT-NOELLAT
1997 Clos de Vougeot
$75 |
3 |
6 |
2 |
4 |
71 |
2/1/0 |
JEAN-MARC MILLOT
1997 Clos de Vougeot
$90 |
4 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
74 |
0/4/1 |
DENIS MORTET
1997 Clos de Vougeot
$115 |
6 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
54 |
6/1/1 |
GEORGES MUGNERET
1997 Clos-Vougeot
$108 |
5 |
7 |
3 |
6 |
75 |
1/1/2 |
JACQUES PRIEUR
1997 Clos Vougeot
$102 |
2 |
2 |
6 |
2 |
54 |
3/5/0 |
Bob Gorman notes:
The wines of Clos Vougeot are among the most difficult wines to judge. Often
“closed-in” and recessive in youth they seem to “ripen in the bottle”
revealing in time a depth of fruit, silkiness and remarkable subtlety and finesse. They
have a depth and authority which belies their Grand Cru status.
All of the wines in this tasting occupied a very narrow quality band that our 1-8 point
scoring system tended to flatten out. Virtually all of the wines need to be re-tasted in a
few years to note their progress in developing their evident intrinsic qualities.
8th Place: Domaine Ren Engel 1997 Clos de Vougeot
The Ren Engel was least liked by the group for its decidedly high acid. One taster
quipped “bottled vinegar!” Others noted “earthy, dirty, stemmy, green-leafy
(tobacco stems especially) characteristics. I liked its big rush of ripe Pinot with notes
of “terroir”, mushroom, bacon and, eventually, spices. While it was admittedly
sharp and tight on entry with not so easy, slightly bitter tannins and somewhat limited
depth of fruit, I still thought that it would develop nicely but short of Grand Cru
status.
7th Place: Domaine Jean Grivot 1997 Clos de Vougeot
Seventh place Jean Grivot found few supporters. Detractors found “road tar,”
“cooked greens” and even “insecticide!” while others faulted its high
acid, bitter tannins and “flat, un-Burgundian characteristics.” Grivot is one of
several disciples of enologist Guy Accad who, among other things, recommends densely
spaced vines and a long, slow “pre-fermentation” maceration. I found some fairly
generous, if sharp-toned, Pinot fruit with traces of mint, chocolate, and “forest
underbrush” (leesy) notes. Unknit and awkward now it had the potential for
considerable development but showed an unwillingness to let oak play a mollifying,
complexing role.
6th Place: Domaine Georges Mugneret 1997 Clos-Vougeot
Some tasters found sixth-place Georges Mugneret “too tannic, tight and high in
acid.” Others liked its “fresh herbal fruit” and “leathery/tobacco
scent”. It was “broader on the palate, helped, no doubt, by its sweet oak.”
Another found it “simple.” I found some luscious Pinot fruit, again, supported
by some lovely sweet oak. There were traces of a metallic character, roots and preserved
angelica. Although rather tight and un-elaborated it has the stuff to develop splendidly,
revealing its Grand Cru status
5th Place: Jean-Marc Millot 1997 Clos de Vougeot
In fifth place, the Jean-Marc Millot found one staunch admirer finding “intensity,
depth and complexity in a fine 'Vougeot' package.” Another liked its “nice mouth
feel” while detractors found it “low in acid, cloudy perhaps?... With a soury
finish.” I found a somewhat thin sharp “metallic” wine that eventually
showed some lovely cherry-like Pinot fruit and elegance. Sharp-toned and undeveloped now,
it has the stuff to develop into an obviously Grand Cru Pinot.
4th Place: Alain Hudelot-Noellat 1997 Clos de Vougeot
Fourth-place Hudelot-Noellat, showed one of the rising "young" stars on the
Burgundian scene in top form. I found thick Pinot fruit, ripe cherries, excellent wood
support, a nice expression of its “terroir” and considerable finesse. On the
palate there was a big mouthful of cherry/Pinot fruit, excellent acid, trace tannins and
the stuff for 5-10 years of splendid development. The tasters were far less enthusiastic,
however, finding it “fat, dullish, rustic with a disagreeable aftertaste.”
Another found a “burnt” character and still another found it “simple and
light in the mouth.”
3rd Place: Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 1997 Clos de Vougeot
Third-place Drouhin-Laroze found supporters curiously reticent while detractors found it
ripe, tannic, and hot with alcohol excessively extracted and chaptalized. I found it soft,
ripe, precocious and a bit hollow.
2nd Place: Domaine Jacques Prieur 1997 Clos Vougeot
Second-place Jacques Prieur was on more secure footing with its “wonderful
fragrance,” “crme brle” and “nicely proportioned.” Another
found a nice “balance of fruit, oak, concentration and depth of Pinot fruit” but
one taster found it “cooked and lighter in body.” I found it to be lightest of
the wines in pigmentation while an initial odd “geranium leaf” character was
suppressed as the Pinot fruit opened up so nicely. It was surprisingly long on the palate,
closed-in but with the stuff to develop to Grand Cru status over several years.
1st Place: Domaine Denis Mortet 1997 Clos de Vougeot
A couple of dissenting voices accused the tasters of being “seduced by the oak”
in first place Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot finding “no center on the palate.”
But what splendid toasty oak! I found a deep core of Pinot fruit, a nice “meaty”
element, dried cherries and crme brle. And what a complete Burgundy!: big,
mouthfilling, long, rich, just beginning to develop to full Grand Cru status.
Gerald's Notes:
Though a few wines are described above as having elevated levels of
acidity, I did not sense this characteristic in most of the wines. I found them a
bit lower in acidity than I would find ideally.
The Jean Grivot wine was my least favorite...nothing really wrong with
this wine (aside from the bottle cost) other than it was less distinctive at this stage
than most of the others.
The Ren Engel had a gamey, meaty, mushroomy note which usually rubs
most tasters the wrong way. It did on this occasion. I found the flavors more
"pure" of Pinot Noir than the nose and found a wine for a few years of aging,
too.
My 6th place was the group's top choice: Denis Mortet. I was one
who felt the wood and creamy, caramel notes were a bit heavy-handed. I liked the
wine, however, but found a number of others which expressed the grape and, in my opinion,
the terroir, better.
Fifth place on my sheet was the Georges Mugneret. Lots of cherry
notes to this wine and it may age nicely for 3-8 more years.
My fourth place was the Jean-Marc Millot. The color was rather
light and this usually causes lots of tasters to mark it down. The aromas were
intensely floral, though. I found hints of violets and roses and a touch of sweet
oak. It also had a bit of backbone, so I felt 5-10 years of aging would be about
right.
The Hudelot-Noellat was third on my scoresheet. I liked the hint of
toasty oak and the root-like, earthy notes of the Pinot Noir. It also had good
structure, so 3-8 more years (maybe more) of cellaring are not out of the question.
Jacques Prieur was my second place wine. This had a fabulous nose:
Oriental spices, raspberry and strawberry with a sweet element from wood.
Very fresh and lively on the palate, the flavors reminded me of cherries, candied oranges
and a hint of wood. Four to six years of aging seemed appropriate, though if you'd
like to open a bottle of this tonight, I'm game!
Drouhin-Laroze was my first place wine. I thought this had a lovely
berryish fragrance and plenty of sweet oak and a hint of caramel...very exotic and sweet
on the nose. The same elements came through on the palate, delivering lots of
berries and just the right amount of tannin to give a bit of an edge to the wine. I
felt it would last about 5-10 more years.
|
Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
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THE WORLD November 2005
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ZAINER'S SIDEWAYS LOOK AT MERLOTS August 2005
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WINES FROM CAMPANIA & BASILICATA May 2004
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WINES FROM THE ABRUZZO & MARCHE REGIONS April 2004
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1997
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2001
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OFF
THE BEATEN PATH SYRAHS APRIL 16, 2003
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SAUVIGNON BLANCS March 19, 2003
1999
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CHAMPAGNES
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Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
May 15, 2002
2001
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1999 ZINFANDELS January 16, 2002
HOLIDAY
SEASON BACCHANALIA
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1999-2000
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1998
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1999
LANGUEDOC REDS August 15, 2001
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Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
1999 PINOT NOIRS May
16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
CARNEROS
CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
NAPA CABERNETS/John Vignau Memorial Tasting October 20, 2000
1997
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 20, 2000
1998 CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAYS August 16, 2000
WINES
FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
WINES
FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIRS-2005s March 13, 2008
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
MOSTLY
2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
WASHINGTON
STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
NORTHERN RHONE SYRAHS April 4, 2007
2001
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO March 28, 2007
2001
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 8, 2006
2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999
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