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MORE PIEMONTESE WINES
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CASCINA MORASSINO
 We
first became acquainted with the wines of this little Barbaresco producer
back in the early 1990s. The fruit, as I recall, used to be sold to a
local grower's cooperative before Roberto Bianco started vinifying his own
production.
I often see a well-regarded Piemontese gentleman who is an agronomist.
He's basically a vineyard man and though he works in central Italy, he knows
every square inch of the Barolo and Barbaresco region since he grew up
there. I saw him in the Spring of 2006 on an Italian
excursion. We compared notes on various wines and I mentioned I'd
visited the Bianco estate the previous summer. "Oh, Robert Bianco
has some outstanding vineyards. Some of the best in Barbaresco, in
fact!" he told me.
Tasting the wines back in the early days, it was apparent to me that Bianco
didn't quite have a handle on managing the tannins in his Barbaresco
wines. We really enjoyed wine from some so-called "lesser"
vintages, finding the wines to be tannic, but balanced. Our impression
of the supposedly "better" vintages was that Bianco's wines were
hugely tannic. In fact, we remember finding one vintage which really
was an assault on the palate!
With time, one can learn how to craft a Nebbiolo-based wine so that it may
actually be drinkable sometime during one's lifetime. This seems to be
the case with the Cascina Morassino wines. Happily.
New in stock is a good example of Nebbiolo, a wine from vineyards within the
Barbaresco zone. This is designated as "Nebbiolo
Langhe." The 2002 vintage is currently available, having passed
muster from the three tough cookies here. The wine has some of
the dusty tannins of Barolo or Barbaresco, but it's not
off-the-charts-astringent. In fact, with food, this is very
drinkable. Give it an hour or two in a decanter to open up and it
blossoms into a wine far more deep than one expects of Nebbiolo in this
price category.
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The 2003 Barbaresco "normale" is excellent and it is a fine bottle
now and it'll be even more complex with bottle aging. Roberto told us
he thinks the much-maligned 2002 vintage is "better balanced than the
2003," but the 2003 is the more intense and complex wine.
Remember, 2003 was a hot summer in Europe, so it was a challenge for many
winemakers. Obviously, this fellow was up to the challenge, because
his 2003 is very fine and "fine" is not a word many vintners
associate with hot vintages.
There are a few bottles of Roberto's 1996 Barbaresco "Ovello" in
stock. The vintage is extraordinarily good and the wine is
well-structured and can live for another 10-20 years, well-stored. I'm
not sure if it will ever arrive at a point of balance, but if you serve it
with stews or savory meat dishes, you'll be delighted. Especially
since these are a mere $59.99 per bottle.
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- Currently in stock: 2002 Nebbiolo Langhe Sold Out
2003 BARBARESCO (list $45) SALE $39.99
- 1996 BARBARESCO "OVELLO" SALE $59.99
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- FRATELLI PONTE
 We've
been buying Barbera from this little firm for more than a year and when the
opportunity presented itself to pay them a visit in the Spring of 2007, I
did.
The winery was founded in 1950 and in 1965 they moved a few miles to their
present location in a small town called Gorzano. Good luck on finding
this place! I asked at a local gas station and the attendant did not
know the road to Gorzano. A fellow having coffee in a bar sent me in a
totally wrong direction and when I stopped to ask a shop-keeper, they sent
me in the general direction, but not quite "there". I
thought I might be on the wrong road, so I stopped (again) and asked,
finally finding someone who knew precisely how to get to Gorzano (about 2
kilometers from where I'd been asking for help, since not road signs pointed
me to this obscure place!).
There are three fratelli and these fellows are in their 30s and
looking to make good wines at attractive prices. -
- They currently have 15 hectares planted in Gorzano (this is close to
Priocca and San Damiano d'Asti in case you know these towns...about 15
minutes' drive north of Alba and 30 minutes south and west of Asti).
They're going to be planting 8 more hectares, having literally moved a hill
to accommodate more vineyards.
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Massimo Ponte shows off their vineyards in Gorzano.
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There's not much wood in this cellar...
Much of their production is sold in these rather large, uh, bottles.
As you might imagine, the idea of selling wine in 25-ounce glass bottles
with a cork closure is a bit of a novelty for the Ponte brothers.
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- Winemaker Renato Ponte pours his delightful Barbera d'Asti.
The locals actually prefer the Ponte's fizzy and young "Barbera
Piemonte" by a 15 to one margin! Of course, price has something
to do with this preference.
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- They make a wine known as "Barbera Levi" as the label is one
designed by the famous grappa producer Romano Levi of the little town of
Neive. There's actually a book someone put together of Levi's label
art...he sells his grappa (if he likes the look of you) and each bottle has
an original label on it! Talk about work!
The wine carries the appellation of "Barbera d'Asti
Superiore." It's matured for about 6 months in "botte"
(those large casks depicted above) and then given a bit of bottle
aging. The wine is a medium-bodied red which lacks the oak of Barberas
which receive 90-point scores in various journals and which cost $30-$80 a
bottle. It sells for a mere eleven bucks and it's a great accompaniment
to pizzas, sausages or a big plate of spaghetti & meatballs.
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- Currently in stock: FRATELLI PONTE 2004 BARBERA D'ASTI Superiore SALE
$10.99
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- MASSOLINO (Vigna Rionda)
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- Just to keep us on our toes, this estate goes by either the
family name, Massolino or the name of a vineyard site, Vigna Rionda.
In addition, you'll see the Vigna Rionda name, in one form or another,
on bottlings from other competing vintners.
In fact, the Massolino family has been cultivating vines in the Serralunga
Valley since the late 1890s. At one time they rented vineyards to
other winemakers...years ago both Michele Chiarlo and Cappellano made wine
from Massolino vines.
Today, however, they cultivate and make their own, offering a terrific range
of wines.
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The Serralunga valley tends to produce well-structured Barolo wines and
most of the Massolino vineyards are in this little area.
In the distance is the town of Monforte d'Alba...
The cellar has cooperage of various dimensions.
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- They currently have about 18 hectares and produce a nice range of
wines. Dolcetto is deliciously fruity as is a basic, entry-level
bottling of Barbera d'Alba. They dabble in Chardonnay...and actually
make a good wine (much to my surprise).
But Serralunga is a land of Nebbiolo and Barolo is the pride of the
winery.
In addition to their normale bottling of Barolo, several
single vineyard wines are made.
We currently have their 2001 "Parafada" Barolo. This comes
from vines planted, I believe, in the 1960s. It's fermented at an
elevated temperature with a fairly brief skin contact. After
fermentation it's racked into small barrels and seems to be a more modern
interpretation of Barolo compared to their other
bottlings. The 2001 is lovely now and it's capable of
cellaring another decade or two. You'll find it to be more
complex with cellaring than it is today as a young wine.
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Currently in stock: 2001 MASSOLINO BAROLO "Parafada"
SALE $69.99
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 RIVETTI (LA SPINETTA)
Located a tad north of Barbaresco towards Asti is the
"modest" facility of the Rivetti family. When we first became
acquainted with Giorgio Rivetti, he was regarded as an up-and-coming producer of fizzy
Moscato d'Asti wines. Ask anyone in the Langhe who's making top Moscato wines and
they'd always have Rivetti on their short list of producers.
Move on to the 1990s and then things changed. Oh, Rivetti still makes some of
Piemonte's best fizzy Moscato wines (Biancospino, Bricco Quaglia, Bric Lapasot, San Rumu
and Muscatel Vej). If you see them while traveling around Italy, don't hesitate to
order these after dinner as they are really "fun" wines.
But I suppose "fun" was enough for Giorgio. All his pals were
getting a great deal of attention and adulation for their more profound wines: red
wines of Barbera and Nebbiolo. So he's vying with his buddies and,
frankly, having the better of it! Now he's suddenly (well, it only seems like
suddenly) become a "superstar" in the realm of red wines.
 Photo: Giorgio Rivetti.
I need to become reacquainted with the current line-up.
In tasting the 2004 Barbaresco wines in 2007, I was a bit disappointed, finding
vegetal and herbal notes. In comparing my notes with various journalists,
I can say our perspectives must be quite different! I'll post new comments
on Rivetti's wines when I've had a chance to evaluate them (in the Spring of
2008, hopefully).
Currently in stock: RIVETTI 1998 Barbaresco "Vigneto Gallina" $99.99
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- BRUNO GIACOSA
 One
of the first wines of Italy which really struck me as being something truly extraordinary
was a 1967 Barolo from Signor Giacosa. I recall tasting it at some big trade event
and being stunned to find something of such amazing depth and complexity. Most
everything else that evening was as though it was in "black and white," while
Giacosa's was in full, living color!
Over the years I've stopped in the winery a number of times. The main office is more
of a shipping facility, while the real winery is a block away. It has a rather nice
tasting room with hundreds of Riedel crystal glasses displayed in a case.
Interestingly, there were no bottles of wine there for tasting, just wine glasses!
 Bruno Giacosa is a very quiet fellow. I don't know if
he ever cracks a smile. He is sometimes described as preferring to allow his wines
to speak for him (and themselves). I suspect he is somewhat curious to see how
people react when they taste his wines, though at the same time, I'd bet to a certain
degree he doesn't really care.
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- Photos: (Above) the Master.
(Right) 1982 Vintage Giacosas...a Barolo and Barbaresco, both
"normale" bottlings. Tasted in January of 2001, the Barbaresco was
actually the more vibrant wine.
He has vineyards which he owns and long-standing agreements with growers from
whom he's been buying fruit for many years.
The winemaking here in traditional. I'd be shocked were I to find a French oak
barrel here.
The 2001 basic Barolo is quite good. It's still young, but certainly
approachable now if you're pairing it with savory dishes. I expect the
wine will cellar well for another decade.
I purchased a bottle of Giacosa's 2005 "Nebbiolo Valmaggiore,"
a wine which comes from vineyards not too far from the winery. Vezza
d'Alba is the site and it's a short, 15 minute ride from the winery.
The wine is a lovely expression of Nebbiolo...not exactly in the direction
of Barolo and, frankly, nowhere near as profound. But for $40, you can
have a terrific example of Nebbiolo from a real master of the
"art."
Arneis from Giacosa is almost always good. I used to think it
was usually the very best example of this white wine but now other estates
give the old boy a run for the money. There are some who claim Bruno
Giacosa was the first to vinify Arneis, while others assert it was Alfredo
Currado of Vietti who made the first. Both are good! We have the
2006 from Giacosa presently and it's a delightful aperitif wine.
There's a touch of fruit and a slight minerality to the wine which works so
well with seafood starters at the dinner table.
Dolcetto and Barbera are also produced here. I often find these priced
a bit beyond their value...the price of fame?
Barolo and Barbaresco can reach great heights in this cellar. Prices
for the more scarce bottles are dizzying, too.
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Currently in stock: Bruno Giacosa 2006 Roero Arneis
$28.99
1997 Barbaresco "Asili" $109.99
2001 Barolo "normale" SALE $99.99
We can special order other Giacosa wines...(as of March
2008)
Brut Spumante $44.99
2003 Barolo Falletto $139.99
2003 Barolo Le Rocche $239.99
2003 Barbaresco "Asili" $169.99
CERETTO
 The
Ceretto brothers are major wine "barons" in the Langhe region. They make
the full range of wines, producing everything from bubbly to Arneis, Chardonnay and
Riesling in whites to traditional reds such as Dolcetto, Barbaresco and Barolo, as well as
Cabernet and Pinot Nero and Syrah.
With several facilities in the region, the main headquarters is an encampment atop
a hill just south of Alba. Though they're world famous, there is but a small sign
with the family name out on the main road. Blink and you'll miss the long driveway.
Over the years, the Ceretto brothers have purchased many hectares of vineyards.
They started by merely purchasing fruit. Driven to improve quality, they
bought the vineyards to have more control. This has proved to be a wise investment.
The azienda now comprises some 80 hectares.
This firm was amongst the first to realize some sort of refinement was needed to
change the traditional winemaking. They sought to make less harsh, bitter and
exceptionally tannic wines. They had been amongst the first to ask exceptionally
high prices for their "art."
I recall some tastings many years ago where we included the "Bricco
Rocche" Barolo and marveled as to what we were missing in tasting a wine of such
exceptional price. I stopped buying these and probably need to organize a tasting to
see how the current crop of Ceretto reds stacks up against the competition.
One wine which I can endorse is the new vintage of Arneis. It's called
"Blangè." I recall when they first started "fooling around"
with this, some bottlings were exceptionally fizzy and spritzy. They seem to have
perfected this delicate white wine, capturing nice fruit and retaining just a touch of CO2.
Apparently, if I understand the concepts correctly, a significant percentage of the fruit
is frozen or pressed "cold." The juice is then fermented at low
temperatures in stainless steel to capture the pear-like and apple-like fruit character of
the grapes.
Ceretto's Arneis is delightful with seafood or mild antipasti. While not a
profound or particularly complex wine, it is, nonetheless a satisfying bottle of wine,
perfect for setting up the more important red wines to come later in a progressive dinner.
Currently in stock: Nothing presently...
Available by Special Order (Updated Spring 2008--Availability is subject to change)
2002 Monsordo Rosso $35.99
2003 Barolo "Zonchera" $39.99
2001 Barolo "Prapo" $74.99
2001 Barbaresco "Bricco Asili" $119.99
2003 Barbaresco "Bricco Asili" $119.99
2001 Barolo "Brunate" $69.99
2003 Barolo "Brunate" $69.99
2001 Barolo "Bricco Rocche" $170
2006 Arneis $19.99
GIANNI VOERZIO
 I suppose
Gianni is not quite as prestigious as his brother Roberto, since his wines are
actually somewhat sensibly priced!
I've often found this winery to have some good wines. The current
line-up is very nice.
Currently available by Special Order (April 2008):
2003 Barolo "La Serra" $135.99
2006 Nebbiolo "Ciabot della Luna" $55.99
2006 Dolcetto d'Alba $37.99
2006 Arneis $37.99
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ROBERTO VOERZIO
 There is no
denying the quality of Roberto Voerzio's wines. It is too bad the
minuscule supply and demand have caused prices to escalate to "cult
status" levels.
We can special order these for you.
Here's the current line up (as of April 2008):
2001 Barolo "Viti dei Capalot" Magnum $500
2005 Dolcetto "Priavino" $24.99-
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