September 4, 2017
MORE PIEMONTESE WINES
- FRATELLI PONTE
Ponte winery is well below the radar of most Italian wine
They don't make fancy wines.
They don't make wines with silly price tags.
They're not on the beaten path, either.
The winery was founded in 1950 and in 1965 they moved a few miles to their
present location in a small town called Gorzano. Good luck on finding
I asked at a local gas station and the attendant did not
know the road to Gorzano. A fellow having coffee in a bar sent me in a
totally wrong direction and when I stopped to ask a shop-keeper, they sent
me in the general direction, but not quite "there". I
thought I might be on the wrong road, so I stopped (again) and asked,
finally finding someone who knew precisely how to get to Gorzano (about 2
kilometers from where I'd been asking for help, since no road signs pointed
me to this obscure place!).
There are three fratelli and these fellows are in their 30s and
looking to make good wines at attractive prices.
- They currently have 15 hectares planted in Gorzano (this is close to
Priocca and San Damiano d'Asti in case you know these towns...about 15
minutes' drive north of Alba and 30 minutes south and west of Asti).
They're going to be planting 8 more hectares, having literally moved a hill
to accommodate more vineyards.
Massimo Ponte shows off their vineyards in Gorzano.
There's not much wood in this cellar...
Much of their production is sold in these rather large, uh, bottles.
As you might imagine, the idea of selling wine in 25-ounce glass bottles
with a cork closure is a bit of a novelty for the Ponte brothers.
- Winemaker Renato Ponte pours his delightful Barbera d'Asti.
The locals actually prefer the Ponte's fizzy and young "Barbera
Piemonte" by a 15 to one margin! Of course, price has something
to do with this preference.
- They make a wine known as "Barbera Levi" as the label is one
designed by the late, famous grappa producer Romano Levi of the little town of
Neive. There's actually a book someone put together of Levi's label
art...he sold his grappa (if he liked the look of you) and each bottle had
an original label on it! Talk about work!
The wine carries the appellation of "Barbera d'Asti
Superiore." It's matured for about 6 months in "botte"
(those large casks depicted above) and then given a bit of bottle
aging. The wine is a medium-bodied red which lacks the oak of Barberas
which receive 90-point scores in various journals and which cost $30-$80 a
bottle. It sells for a mere thirteen bucks and it's a great accompaniment
to pizzas, sausages or a big plate of spaghetti & meatballs.
The 2014 Barbera is terrific.
The nose offers some red fruits and a mild, vanilla bean fragrance from
aging in wood.
- It sports zesty red fruits and has
classic Barbera acidity, making it a delight with tomato-sauced seafood
dishes (pasta or cioppino)...You'll possibly detect a mildly earthy quality
on the palate. Pair it with braised lamb, tomato-sauced pastas,
grilled meats, rich cheeses, etc. It's best served lightly cooled to cellar temp.
Periodically, a customer will come in and say "I'm looking for a good
Barolo to serve at dinner tonight which costs less than thirty
dollars." For about the past five years my reply has been
"So am I."
That's because the price of a bottle of a typical Barolo starts around fifty
bucks and goes on up from there.
I am delighted to report, though, that the Ponte brothers bought some fruit
in Barolo in the 2009 vintage and they made a very nice wine. As
they're a value-oriented estate, we're actually able to offer a good example
of Barolo from a top vintage for forty dollars. It comes from a
vineyard site in La Morra according to Massimo Ponte. We first tasted this
in 2013 and the wine was impressive...not austere, but with an early
drinkability to it. The wine, tasted blind, seemed like it could have been
from some of the top, famous names in Barolo. Now it's had a bit of time
in bottle and is showing well...still young, but certainly worth decanting and
splashing around an hour before dinner...
A 2006 Nebbiolo d'Alba is in stock and is also an excellent
value...there's just a hint of that tarry note we love in older Barolo and
Barbaresco wines...dry, moderately tannic...best with braised meats, stews, etc.
or a really soulful tomato-sauced pasta...
- Currently in stock: FRATELLI PONTE 2014 BARBERA D'ASTI Superiore
FRATELLI PONTE 2009 BAROLO $39.99
2006 FRATELLI PONTE NEBBIOLO D'ALBA $16.99
Massimo, Dad and Renato...
Dad was the one working in the vineyard when we visited in May of 2010...
For years, most of the Ponte wines were sold in demijohns.
Damn, that's good!
Massimo holding two really good bottles of wine...an old Dunn Howell Mountain
bottle of his Barbera d'Asti.
At dinner at the new Castello di Lara e Massimo...
Ponte Nebbiolo d'Alba was showing well...quite a handsome wine, in fact.
Some fresh pasta was also beautifully prepared...
Lara makes it "snow" Parmigiano over the Tajarin.
Even the Ponte dogs have a nose for wine!
first became acquainted with the wines of this little Barbaresco producer
back in the early 1990s. The fruit, as I recall, used to be sold to a
local grower's cooperative before Roberto Bianco started vinifying his own
A friend from Piemonte (who works in Tuscany these days) knows
every square inch of the Barolo and Barbaresco region since he grew up
there. He's an agronomist and does vineyard work.
- I saw him in the Spring of 2006 on an Italian
excursion. We compared notes on various wines and I mentioned I'd
visited the Bianco estate the previous summer. "Oh, Robert Bianco
has some outstanding vineyards. Some of the best in Barbaresco, in
fact!" he told me.
Tasting the wines back in the early days, it was apparent to me that Bianco
didn't quite have a handle on managing the tannins in his Barbaresco
wines. We really enjoyed wine from some so-called "lesser"
vintages, finding the wines to be tannic, but balanced. Our impression
of the supposedly "better" vintages was that Bianco's wines were
hugely tannic. In fact, we remember finding one vintage which really
was an assault on the palate!
With time, one can learn how to craft a Nebbiolo-based wine so that it may
actually be drinkable sometime during one's lifetime. This seems to be
the case with the Cascina Morassino wines. Happily.
New in stock is a good example of Nebbiolo, a wine from vineyards within the
Barbaresco zone. This is designated as "Nebbiolo
Langhe." The 2005 vintage is currently available, having passed
muster from the three tough cookies here. The wine has some of
the dusty tannins of Barolo or Barbaresco, but it's not
off-the-charts-astringent. In fact, with food, this is very
drinkable. Give it an hour or two in a decanter to open up and it
blossoms into a wine far more deep than one expects of Nebbiolo in this
The 2003 Barbaresco "normale" is excellent and it is a fine bottle
now and it'll be even more complex with bottle aging. Roberto told us
he thinks the much-maligned 2002 vintage is "better balanced than the
2003," but the 2003 is the more intense and complex wine.
Remember, 2003 was a hot summer in Europe, so it was a challenge for many
winemakers. Obviously, this fellow was up to the challenge, because
his 2003 is very fine and "fine" is not a word many vintners
associate with hot vintages.
Their 2006 Dolcetto d'Alba is a lovely, balanced example with an emphasis on
the berry-like fruit. It is not a tannic, harsh wine, so we usually
serve it lightly cooled to cellar temp. It pairs with a wide variety
of foods, from simple pastas to roasted chicken, sausages, etc.
- Currently in stock: 2005 Nebbiolo Langhe Sold Out
2003 BARBARESCO (list $45) SALE $39.99
CASTELLO DI VERDUNO
- There's a curious little Piemontese grape variety that's particular to
the Barolo region village of Verduno. It's called Pelaverga and
we've long been a fan of this curious grape variety.
There are two clones of Pelaverga....one originates in
Saluzzo, a bit off-the-radar for wine. Then we have Pelaverga Piccolo
from Verduno, an obscure wine found mainly in this little town. There
are said to be small plantings in La Morra and Roddi.
The Castello di Verduno is one of the major sources of this minor
wine. Some will tell you the wine of Pelaverga is an
aphrodisiac. It does have a certain amount of charm. You'll get
a sense of the character of this wine if you think about a good cru
Beaujolais enhanced with a touch of spice and pepper.
Old Bottles in the Cellar of Castello di Verduno
Some friends made a batch of this one vintage...very nice and spicy,
reminding me of a fruity/spicy wine I'd had from Friuli...Schioppettino.
We brown-bagged my friend's wine from Piemonte and the bottle I'd brought
from Friuli and they tasted nearly the same!
- Visit Verduno and you MUST order a bottle of Pelaverga. It's
typically served cooled to cellar temperature. Pair it with a plate
of tajarin (Piemontese tagliatelle) and you'll be delighted.
It also pairs handsomely with seafood, so grilled salmon with a grind of
pepper is a perfect partner to a cool bottle of Pelaverga.
The wine from Castello di Verduno (they have agriturismo rooms for
rent if you reserve ahead of time and a small ristorante if you'd
like to enjoy a bottle of Pelaverga right at the source) is a gem.
It's fresh, fruity, berryish and mildly spicy. Their special name
for their Pelaverga is "Basadone" which is sort of
Piemontese-speak for "kiss a woman." Maybe there's some
truth to the aphrodisiac assertion!
Barbaresco from this estate is one of those wines that those who
"know" Piemontese wines will know, while the average bear is more
aware of Barbaresco from producers whose wineries are actually situated in the
area of Barbaresco. ((If your winery has a 'history' of producing Barolo
or Barbaresco outside those zones, you may continue to produce those wines on
"foreign" turf. Otherwise, you have to have an actual winery or
rent space in a winery located within that zone.))
The Castello di Verduno has slightly more than one hectare of vineyards within
the famed "Rabajà" cru of Barbaresco. The soil is a mix of
sand, clay and limestone in such a proportion as to produce an elegant wine with
great finesse and complexity. We've had a few vintages of this Barbaresco
and it's one we regard as being of "grand cru" status.
The 2006 is currently in stock and it's magnificent and youthful. If you
are a patient soul, do consider putting a few bottles in the wine rack or cooler
for enjoyment down the road...it will handsomely repay dividends!
Currently in stock: 2012 CASTELLO DI VERDUNO
PELAVERGA Sold Out
2006 CASTELLO DI VERDUNO BARBARESCO "Rabaja" List $60 SALE
- MASSOLINO (Vigna Rionda)
- Just to keep us on our toes, this estate goes by either the
family name, Massolino or the name of a vineyard site, Vigna Rionda.
In addition, you'll see the Vigna Rionda name, in one form or another,
on bottlings from other competing vintners.
In fact, the Massolino family has been cultivating vines in the Serralunga
Valley since the late 1890s. At one time they rented vineyards to
other winemakers...years ago both Michele Chiarlo and Cappellano made wine
from Massolino vines.
Today, however, they cultivate and make their own, offering a terrific range
The Serralunga valley tends to produce well-structured Barolo wines and
most of the Massolino vineyards are in this little area.
In the distance is the town of Monforte d'Alba...
The cellar has cooperage of various dimensions.
- They currently have about 23 hectares and produce a nice range of
wines. Dolcetto is deliciously fruity as is a basic, entry-level
bottling of Barbera d'Alba. They dabble in Chardonnay...and actually
make a good wine (much to my surprise).
But Serralunga is a land of Nebbiolo and Barolo is the pride of the
In addition to their normale bottling of Barolo, several
single vineyard wines are made.
There are a few bottles of 2004s in the shop. The Parafada is more
accessible but still young and with good potential. It is aged in a
combination of different types of cooperage, including French oak, but the
wine doesn't, to me, show evidence of oak. It's a good bottle of
wine and one which is starting to show its complexities. Best
decanted theses days. Very fine and still it can go for another
The Margheria 2004 is also very fine. It's maybe a tad tighter by
comparison, but if you open it today, give it an hour or two in the
- There's the 2010 Barolo Normale, a terrific entry level wine. Now
it's in that middle ground where it's still youthful and tight, but you
see the first notes of development in the wine.
They have about 7 hectares of vines scattered around Serralunga from which
they make this wine.
It's a bottling that's overshadowed by the various vineyard-designated
wines, but you'll find it's quite a good bottle and well worth its modest
view Massolino as a house of Nebbiolo.
But we included a bottle of their 2011 Barbera d'Alba (the entry level
bottling) in a blind-tasting of Piemontese Barberas. The wine was
stellar, especially if you like the non-oaked style of this wine.
The 2012 was similarly styled and excellent and we're on to the 2013.
The 2013 is currently in stock...it's as delicious as the earlier wines.
- Here's a nice snapshot of a bottle of Massolino Barbera with some
agnolotti del Plin at Felicin in Monforte d'Alba...
Damn, that was a great wine & food pairing.
When you hear the name "Moscato d'Asti," one thinks of the
delightful, casual little Moscato wines from vineyards near Asti.
That's about 40 kilometers away from Serralunga, but the zone for making
Moscato d'Asti actually extends, still, to the backyard of the Massolino
This is because when they were drawing up the boundaries for the denominazione,
they were mindful that the nearby Fontanafredda winery did a big business
in selling Moscato. And since they sourced fruit from vineyards near
the winery as well as closer to Asti, Serralunga was included in the
map delineating the Moscato d'Asti appellation.
So we're delighted to have what we call "Moscato di Barolo"
essentially...Moscato from a seriously good producer from vineyards
neighboring those of Barolo!
The wine is beautifully fragrant and mildly fizzy...classic, textbook
Moscato. Good acidity keeps this from being too sweet.
Currently in stock:
2004 MASSOLINO BAROLO "Parafada" $89.99
2004 MASSOLINO BAROLO "Margheria" $89.99
2010 MASSOLINO BAROLO "Normale" (List $75) SALE
2013 MASSOLINO BARBERA d'ALBA Back in
2015 MASSOLINO MOSCATO d'ASTI $21.99
RIVETTI (LA SPINETTA)
Located a tad north of Barbaresco towards Asti is the
"modest" facility of the Rivetti family. When we first became
acquainted with Giorgio Rivetti, he was regarded as an up-and-coming producer of fizzy
Moscato d'Asti wines. Ask anyone in the Langhe who's making top Moscato wines and
they'd always have Rivetti on their short list of producers.
Move on to the 1990s and then things changed. Oh, Rivetti still makes some of
Piemonte's best fizzy Moscato wines (Biancospino, Bricco Quaglia, Bric Lapasot, San Rumu
and Muscatel Vej). If you see them while traveling around Italy, don't hesitate to
order these after dinner as they are really "fun" wines.
But I suppose "fun" was enough for Giorgio. All his pals were
getting a great deal of attention and adulation for their more profound wines: red
wines of Barbera and Nebbiolo. So he's vying with his buddies and,
frankly, having the better of it! Now he's suddenly (well, it only seems like
suddenly) become a "superstar" in the realm of red wines.
Photo: Giorgio Rivetti.
We've tasted a number of nice bottles of Rivetti's "La Spinetta"
wines...and he's making some wines in Tuscany, too.
In early 2016 we went to lunch with some friends and brought a bottle of
Rivetti's 1994 blend called "Pin." This is the nickname of
someone named Giuseppe. "Pepe," "Peppino" or
simply "Pin." And that's the name of Rivetti's dear old dad, so
to honor the old boy they make a really fine blended red called "PIN."
The 1994, at 22 years of age, was magnificent. Nebbiolo and
couldn't quite recall the percentages of the blend, but clearly the Nebbiolo
dominated and you might have mistaken that bottle for a Barolo or Barbaresco
which was fiddled with, since the Barbera added color.
Since it had been a while since we tasted a recent vintage of "Pin,"
we bought a bottle of the 2011.
It was a pleasant surprise.
Though they age it in small French oak, the wood is rather tame. It's not
heavily-oaked and the wine is nicely balanced.
Nebbiolo accounts for 65% of the blend with the rest being Barbera.
The wine is fairly full-bodied and it's complete. It's also drinkable in
its youth, despite having a moderate level of tannin.
We liked the wine but I was concerned that most customers would not appreciate
this sort of Italian red.
We didn't finish the bottle and so I brought it back to the store and we showed
it to a few customers.
Everyone said they wanted to buy some!
This is not the sort of wine you drink on its own...its mildly tannic structure
really demands it be served with food.
We bought the distributor's remaining inventory and this flew out the door!
Happily there was more of the 2011 available and we've
received a few more shipments.
The fact that it sells (and it's not inexpensive or an everyday-priced wine) and
customers routinely have come back to buy a few more bottles is, for me, mind-boggling!
It can be paired with braised meats or stews. Consider a mushroom risotto,
if you like. Or grilled or roasted meats. The 2011 will probably
cellar nicely, too, so stashing a few bottles away to drink in 2020, or so, is
not a bad idea.
Currently in stock: RIVETTI
2011 "PIN" $59.99
- BRUNO GIACOSA
of the first wines of Italy which really struck me as being something truly extraordinary
was a 1967 Barolo from Signor Giacosa. I recall tasting it at some big trade event
and being stunned to find something of such amazing depth and complexity. Most
everything else that evening was as though it was in "black and white," while
Giacosa's was in full, living color!
Over the years I've stopped in the winery a number of times. The main office is more
of a shipping facility, while the real winery is a block away.
Bruno Giacosa is a very quiet fellow. I don't know if
he ever cracks a smile. He is sometimes described as preferring to allow his wines
to speak for him (and themselves). I suspect he is somewhat curious to see how
people react when they taste his wines, though at the same time, I'd bet to a certain
degree he doesn't really care.
- Photos: (Above) the Master.
(Right) 1982 Vintage Giacosas...a Barolo and Barbaresco, both
"normale" bottlings. Tasted in January of 2001, the Barbaresco was
actually the more vibrant wine.
He has vineyards which he owns and long-standing agreements with growers from
whom he's been buying fruit for many years. There are two
"labels," though most people can't tell the
difference. One label features their "estate grown"
wines and is offered as "Azienda Agricola FALLETTO"– di Bruno
The other label comes from purchased fruit and is labeled
"Casa Vinicola BRUNO GIACOSA." Qualitatively you'll find
some grand and compelling wines, whether they grow the grapes themselves or
The winemaking here in traditional. I'd be shocked were I to find
small French oak
barrels here. Giacosa, though, does use French oak, but you'd be
hard-pressed to identify one of his wines as having wood since the cooperage
is used to develop and mature the wines, rather than to add aromatics or
Arneis from Giacosa is almost always good. I used to think it
was usually the very best example of this white wine but now other estates
give the old boy a run for the money. There are some who claim Bruno
Giacosa was the first to vinify Arneis, while others assert it was Alfredo
Currado of Vietti who made the first. Both are good! We have the
2007 from Giacosa presently and it's a delightful aperitif wine.
There's a touch of fruit and a slight minerality to the wine which works so
well with seafood starters at the dinner table.
Dolcetto and Barbera are also produced here. We tasted a
dynamite 2006 Barbera made from purchased fruit. What a wine!
It's a traditionally-styled Barbera, so if you're more a fan of the
heavily-wooded Barberas from Vietti or Coppo, this won't float your
boat. If you appreciate a wine displaying the classic black fruit of
Barbera, you will find this to be exceptional.
The 2007 Nebbiolo is a lovely, youthful wine...not that it's made to
age. But this is a nice rendition that's quite drinkable now.
You won't mistake this for a mature bottle of Giacosa Barolo and you
shouldn't--it's meant to drink with less complicated foods. Best
now-2013, or so...
Barolo and Barbaresco can reach great heights in this cellar. Prices
for the more scarce bottles are dizzying, too.
Giacosa had health issues and missed vinifying the 2006 vintage.
There had been some problems in the cellar and the long-time staff members
departed for one reason or another.
When Giacosa was able to regain his health, he tasted the Barolo and
Barbaresco wines and was quite dismayed to find they did not measure up.
Though most winemakers in the Langhe speak highly of the vintage, Giacosa
made headlines when he decided that he wouldn't be bottling and selling 2006
"heavy hitter" wines.
A new winemaker had come on board, Giorgio Lavagna. He spent 20 years,
give or take, working at the Batasiolo facility near La Morra.
Signor Lavagna pours a flute of Giacosa's famed Brut Spumante.
Some observers have wondered how the wines
will be, given the change in cellar managers. Batasiolo, for example,
produces credible wines, but few tasters would put them in the same league as
The 2005s we tasted in 2009 were quite good. And the
prices at which they are offered here in the US market lend credence to the
notion of Barolo being "the king of wines and the wine of
kings." One must have deep pockets to successfully "ransom"
a bottle from the importer.
They have a cellar full of bottle-fermented spumante.
So...the story continues. It seems winemaker Dante
Scaglione has returned to Giacosa after a three year absence. He left
under undisclosed circumstances and returned after they all kissed and made up (May 2011).
Currently in stock:
Bruno Giacosa 2007 Roero Arneis Sold Out
Bruno Giacosa 2006 Barbera d'Alba $37.99
Bruno Giacosa 2007 Nebbiolo $39.99
Bruno Giacosa 2001 Barolo "Falletto" Sale
Bruno Giacosa 2005 Barolo "Rocche" Sale
Bruno Giacosa 1998 Barbaresco "Santo Stefano"
1999 Barolo "normale" SALE $129.99
Ceretto brothers are major wine "barons" in the Langhe region. They make
the full range of wines, producing everything from bubbly to Arneis, Chardonnay and
Riesling in whites to traditional reds such as Dolcetto, Barbaresco and Barolo, as well as
Cabernet and Pinot Nero and Syrah.
With several facilities in the region, the main headquarters is an encampment atop
a hill just south of Alba. Though they're world famous, there is but a small sign
with the family name out on the main road. Blink and you'll miss the long driveway.
Over the years, the Ceretto brothers have purchased many hectares of vineyards.
They started by merely purchasing fruit. Driven to improve quality, they
bought the vineyards to have more control. This has proved to be a wise investment.
The azienda now comprises some 160 hectares. And the new
generation is farming biodynamically. Good for them!
This firm was amongst the first to realize some sort of refinement was needed to
change the traditional winemaking. They sought to make less harsh, bitter and
exceptionally tannic wines. Give them credit for being willing to take
a look at how the wines had been made, typically, and for pushing to
re-think the classic vinification and maturation of Langhe wines.
They had been amongst the first to ask exceptionally
high prices for their "art."
We had not been huge fans of their wines, but tasting the wine from Ceretto
over the past
The Ceretto family downplays the size of their enterprise, explaining that
it's not really one big winery, but several smaller operations. It's
not surprising, as well, that consumers are easily confused.
There is a fairly large production facility, called Monsordo-Bernardina, in
Alba where they make most of their wines. This is where they make
their famous Blangè Arneis (the Santa Margherita of Arneis wines and we
intend that as a bit of a snarky characterization of this popular Piemontese
white), as well as their basic Barbaresco and Barolo wines.
For a number of years, Ceretto had these confusing labels on their
wines...the basic Barbaresco was called Asÿ and the Barolo was dubbed
Zonchera. We posted these images you see below pointing out how
confusing this has been for consumers.
The average wine drinker does not know those names are essentially brand
names within the Ceretto portfolio and not special "cru" sites.
Then Ceretto had used names of cru sites as sort of a brand name...Bricco
Asili for their Barbaresco cru wines and Bricco Rocche for their Barolo cru
Maybe they read our editorial posted here some years ago
taking them to task for this. But we suppose the change may have
been required by the changing laws governing the usage of vineyard sites
on the labels.
Here is their current labeling for the cru Barolo wines:
Now, instead of calling all of these wines "Bricco Rocche"
with the name of the cru on the label, the wines have the more sensible
branding of "Ceretto" with the vineyard designates below the
And for their entry level Barolo and Barbaresco, again the Ceretto name is
We have some bottles of their 2012 Barolo in stock.
It's a blend of grapes from the Barolo/La Morra area and those from
Serralunga. The resulting wine is a good example of Barolo and the wine
displays a nice woodsy element from its aging in oak.
While many 2012s are in need of cellaring for a few years, Ceretto's is showing
well in its youth and can easily provide a memorable Barolo-drinking experience
It should be able to be cellared for another 10-15 years, too.
They claim to produce 20% of all the Arneis made in the Langhe region, an
impressive number if it's true. Dubbed "Blangè", some
vintages might be better labeled "Bland." The name Blangè, however, may come from the French word for "baker" or
"bakery," boulange or boulangerie. ((Please keep in mind
that the Piemontese dialect sounds very French!!))
Anyway, the Ceretto family liked the name and so they've retained it for
their popular, simple white wine.
Their version of Arneis is a bit reminiscent of industrial Portuguese
Vinho Verde. It's slightly fizzy and the carbon dioxide in the wine
We have usually found the wine to have a bit of residual sugar, too, which
we don't care for. But they certainly have a market for an off-dry
Arneis with some effervescence as they sell a lot of it.
Currently in stock:
2012 CERETTO BAROLO "classico" $49.99
Other wines by special order...
- I suppose
Gianni is not quite as prestigious as his brother Roberto, since his wines are
actually somewhat sensibly priced!
I've often found this winery to have some good wines. The current
line-up is very nice.
The local importer found a few cases of the exceptional 2001 in the warehouse
and we're able to offer this wine for a remarkable price. I tasted this
wine in the Spring of 2009 and it's still young and a bit
- Currently in stock: 2001 BAROLO "La Serra" (List
$135) SALE $74.99
- There is no
denying the quality of Roberto Voerzio's wines. It is too bad the
minuscule supply and demand have caused prices to escalate to "cult
- I can't imagine people paying the stratospheric prices (hundreds of dollars
for magnums)...though we popped for a bottle of his 2004 Brunate this past
year. We put it on the dinner table alongside a bottle of E. Pira Barolo
from the Cannubi cru and, frankly, could not find justification for the
remarkable price of Voerzio's wine. Sure, this guy's wine is good,
but my guests might have preferred if I taped a $50 bill under their chair and
surprised them with that.
- If you visit the cellar, you'll have an idea of their dedication to
quality. It all starts, as we so often hear, in the
As you can see in the photo above, the vines are planted closely
together. Instead of perhaps a few thousand vines per hectare,
Voerzio's philosophy is to have greater density in the vineyard and
obtaining a small yield-per-vine than most vintners.
With so many plants per hectare, then, you need more manual labor in the
vineyard to look after these vines. That adds to the cost of the wine,
The Voerzio protocol includes a green-harvest in July, taking away perhaps
half the crop. In August, typically, they'll go back and cut off part
of each remaining cluster in hopes of concentrating the character of the
surviving bunches. This, they say, amounts to about a half-kilo of
grapes per Nebbiolo vine, with yields for Barbera and Dolcetto being as high
as one kilo and one-and-a-half-kilos per plant.
Since founding the winery in 1986 (when Roberto and his brother Giovanni
split the family estate, each going his separate way), Voerzio has acquired
vineyard parcels in some of the top crus of Barolo. Today he owns
vines in Rocche dell'Annunziata, Fossati, Sarmassa, La Serra, Brunate and
No chemical fertilizers...no weed-killers...
- The wines are fermented using indigenous yeast...low levels of
sulphur...no filtration...they sing a good song. It's one we'd like to
hear more frequently and, come to think of it, we do hear this tune from
many wine producers.
All of the Voerzio wines see wood except for their Dolcetto.
Robert Voerzio opening a bottle of Roberto Voerzio
periodically purchase a bottle of this or that from their local distributor
and are delighted to report the 2010 Nebbiolo Langhe was exceptional!
The wine comes from two vineyard parcels, one is San Francesco and the other
is Fontanazza, both from Voerzio's backyard in La Morra. The
wine spent about a year in wood (30% new barriques and
The 2010 vintage is particularly good...problem-free, so a wine such as this
is better than it normally is.
We liked the mildly earthy, dark berry notes of the Nebbiolo fruit. It's
an elegant Nebbiolo, at that, with the wood being in the background to add
just the right spice tone to the wine. You'll find it dry and but mildly
tannic, not as austere as an equally young Barolo or Barbaresco.
And, as we've noted earlier...Voerzio wines tend to be priced
stratospherically. But this bottle is actually within the realm of
reason, so it's been fairly popular with those Weimax customers who've tried
- John says he's broken from his normal philosophy of buying just a single
bottle of each wine (so he can drink a more diverse range), "...but I'm
going to have to make an exception here and pick up 3 of these."
And he did.
That vintage is sold out and we bought a bottle of the following year and it
was not nearly as exceptional.
We'll soon be tasting a current vintage...stay tuned...
- Currently in stock: ROBERTO VOERZIO 2010 Nebbiolo Langhe Sold
were passing through Piemonte and stopped at a friend's restaurant for
lunch on our way east.
She put a bottle of white wine on the table and said "Here, taste
We ordered a nice lunch, beginning with some Piemontese appetizers such
as Vitello Tonnato and Carne Cruda. Then we ordered some
pastas: Tajarin and Agnolotti del Plin.
Flavia returned to the table as we were mid-way through the pastas
and she picked up the bottle of Gavi: EMPTY!
Well, we had to drink the entire bottle: It was that
A few days later we sought out the producer: Massimo Diotti runs
this young winery. The place was founded in 1999 and he's making a
really nice Gavi.
The grape for Gavi is the Cortese, known to the locals as Courteis
(sounds French). No oak, so the wine retains the fresh notes of
apple and pear. There's a mild minerality to the wine, as
well. It's at home with seafood, as you'd expect and, as we found,
it stood up nicely to the Vitello Tonnato and Carne Cruda.
Piemontese Antipasti with a Stellar bottle of San Matteo Gavi!
Massimo Diotti, who's making very fine Gavi!
We left a message for a Bay Area importer who has a handful of
Italian wines in their portfolio and whom we knew was looking for a few
more. We suggested they look up Signor Diotti and his wine to see for
themselves. And, they too, found the wine to be not only very good, but
And the second shipment recently arrived in the Bay Area...and we
re-tasted it to see. Quite good.
You might give this a try instead of falling back on the same old, same old Pinot
Grigio. The flavors are a bit different here, but likely to be appealing.
Currently in stock: 2013 SAN MATTEO GAVI
They don't have any signage out on the road to indicate where they are
...Just a mailbox in front of the house!
- The Fenocchio family has been farming in the Monforte d'Alba area since
the days of Abraham Lincoln, but it's only recently we've put them on our
radar screen as a vintner worth following.
The property consists of somewhere between 13 and 14 hectares. The
biggest parcel is of Barolo in the Bussia area where the winery is
located. But they also have some vineyards in Castellero,
Cannubi and Villero.
The Fenocchio brothers don't do much manipulation in the vineyards to
reduce yields to tiny levels. They'll tell you they are looking for
wines of "balance" and so they don't want large crop levels
which will reduce intensity, nor do they want tiny yields, lest they make
wines of extreme tannin.
Typically, though, the vineyards for their Barolo wines produce from about
two to three tons per acre, so it's not ridiculously small, nor would
anyone contend the vines are over-cropped.
The winery features very traditionally-made wines. I recall some
vintages, many years ago, as being a bit rustic. But they've become
a solid producer and the wines are reliably well-made and of good quality.
They typically employ a lengthy period of skin contact, typically
something along the lines of 30 to 40 days. However, we tasted a
tank sample of 2012 Bussia which was left for 90 days on the skins!
And yes, it was tannic!!!
The cellars of the Fenocchio Brothers is clean and
They claim to have an aversion to small oak barrels, but you can certainly see a
small one in the foreground (and to the right) of this snapshot.
For the most part, though, the wines spent a couple of years in large Slavonian
oak casks and tanks, after being aged for 6 months in those stainless steel
I believe the first vintage to be bottled and sold was that of 1947.
We have a 2010 Barolo from the Villero cru in Castiglione
Falletto. This is a marvelous wine, especially if you have some
patience. The wine is a bit tight presently, but it does show some red
fruits, cherry notes, a touch of spice and a hint of forest floor earthiness.
The tannin level is such that this wine will probably take until 2020 before if
starts to really show itself and then it ought to go another decade or two.
Currently in stock: 2010 FENOCCHIO BAROLO
"Villero" Sale $64.99
(Marco e Vittorio)
known this winery for a number of years and visited the cellar in 2008 if
They make some good wines from vineyards they own about a 15 minute drive
south from Barbaresco or southeast from the "big city" of Alba.
San Rocco Seno D'Elvio, a town few people know, is where the Adrianos are
It's such an out-of-the-way place even they bring a sack of grissini
with them (to Alba or Barbaresco) and leave a trail of crumbs so they
can find their way back home later.
- Grandpa Giussepe Adriano started the farm in the early 1900s and his son
Aldo continued in the old man's foot-steps. Today his 'kids' run the
place, cultivating grapes, hazelnuts and maybe foraging for truffles in
Like so many small, artisan vintners, finding a few independent American
importers has proven tricky.
- Adriano has been asking us for some help in tracking down a good,
reliable importer so they might have a small presence in California.
I gave them a few tips and finally one decided to pull the trigger and buy
Happily for us, the importer has old-fashioned, honest margins and the
Adriano wines can be had some a most attractive price.
We tasted their 2013 Dolcetto d'Alba and this, if you like crisp, dry red
wine, is a delight. It comes from mature vines and undergoes a
fairly standard fermentation. They moderate the amount of skin
contact, though, to avoid making an overly bitter, astringent red.
We, frankly, prefer Dolcetto that's immediately drinkable, as we enjoy the
fresh fruity notes and berry fragrances and flavors without making a
coarse or bitter wine.
Still, I'm sure this 2013 may be too austere for some palates. If
you're a fan of Zinfandels from Lodi or Paso Robles (wines which lack
acidity), this will be like fingernails on a chalkboard.
On the other hand, if you like snappy Sangiovese from Tuscany or
uncomplicated Barbera, this is worth a try.
Pair it (lightly chilled) with chicken, roasted turkey, pork chops or a
pork roast, tomato-sauced pastas, pizza, sausages, etc. It's a great
little picnic red, too.
And...the price is most attractive.
Currently in stock: 2013 ADRIANO DOLCETTO
D'ALBA Sold Out
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