More Wines From The Rhone & Environs

ROGER PERRIN

The Perrin name is famous in the region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it's the Perrin brothers at Beaucastel who garner much of the attention for the region.

The Roger Perrin winery is a simple building, not a grand manor or chateau.  While the other Perrin's get all the fame and attention from critics such as Robert Parker for their "Beaucastel" wine, I've dubbed this Perrin's estate as "No Castel."  

The Roger Perrin domaine had been run by Luc Perrin. Sadly, Luc had been battling cancer the past couple of years and passed away in August of 2010.  

His wines have been routinely good.  They began bottling wine in the 1969 vintage, but the Perrins have been growing grapes since the early 1900s.  There are about 40-something hectares of vines presently.  About 15.5 hectares are in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 20 are in the Côtes du Rhône and 7 are simply "vin de pays."  

Grenache is the predominant grape.  There are various varieties, though, planted throughout Perrin's holdings.  

Perrin makes a range of wines.  We've had delicious white and red Côtes du Rhône wines and currently have his elegant and refined 2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  It is drinkable now and will cellar well.  The vintage is not one which produced huge, deep wine, but there's a refinement to this wine which will satisfy most tasters, save for those who've grown accustomed to 15+% alcohol California wines.  For those tasters, this will taste "light."

I've been fortunate to visit Perrin's estate a couple of times.  The first time he asked if we wanted to taste an older wine.  Of course, "no" is not in my lexicon, so Luc went off to find an unlabeled bottle.  He opened it and poured the wine, not telling us the vintage, but insisting we try to guess.  I took a sniff of its magnificent, truffley bouquet and a few seconds later blurted out "1978!"  It was, indeed, the 1978.

On my second visit to this estate, we tasted all sorts of tank and barrel samples.  Again, Perrin asked if we'd like to try an older bottle.  I swirled the wine, inhaling the lovely bouquet and thought it's the 1981.  Perrin started talking about the vintage, noting "it was not particularly fine..."  I didn't want to be thrown off the track, so I said "I think this is the 1981."  Bingo!  

Lucky guesses for me!!!

Anyway, Luc Perrin made delicious wine and his importer adds an honest mark-up, so this wine arrives at an attractive price for consumers.  The 2015 is a medium-bodied wine and it's quite drinkable now.  It is not the alcoholic fruit bomb so highly prized by some of the critics.  Nor is it out of balance and hugely tannic and astringent.  

The Cotes du Rhone Blanc is a winner...It's got a healthy percentage of Viognier, along with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Marsanne.  We have the 2017 presently.  The Viognier contributes some of that peachy character to the wine.

Luc passed away in late 2010...so we were unsure as to what direction the domaine would take.  Would the family sell off the property?  Or what?

We were most pleasantly surprised to visit in the Spring of 2011 and meet Luc's sister, Veronique.

Veronique Perrin-Rolin

It seems Veronique is an enologist in her own right and she founded a prominent wine lab in the northern Rhone Valley many years ago.  She's well-respected by numerous prominent winemakers and she has taken over running the family domaine in the southern Rhone.

Of course we're so sad about Luc, but it is great to see the winery and vineyards are in the hands of a capable manager.  

Currently in stock:  2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge $39.99  
2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 375ml bottles Sold Out
2017 Cotes du Rhone Blanc  $14.99

 

The late Luc Perrin in 2008...Nice hat!

 

 

CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON

Mont-Redon is a large estate in the Southern Rhône and they make not only Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but a number of other local wines.

We know them, though, for their Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  

Having tasted the wines over the years, these have routinely been "solid" and of good quality. 

Our late colleague, Bob Gorman, liked Mont-Redon's wine and mentioned visiting one of his favorite haunts in Paris where the manager or host, remembering Bob from previous visits, would immediately run to the cellar to get a bottle of this Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  We wonder what pleased Bob more: being recognized as a special customer at a favorite French dining spot or enjoying a bottle of a favorite wine.

In August of 2019 we organized a blind-tasting of currently-available Châteauneufs.   We had wines from the "lower" end of the price spectrum, that is, below $60 a bottle.  
These days you can spend some serious money on such a bottle.  It seems some wineries are specifically catering to the American, point-awarding wine critics and bottling high octane reds.  
We have asked importers at trade tastings when we've tasted a "hot"-tasting Châteauneuf-du-Pape:  "Who's the winemaker, Jim Beam or Jack Daniels?"
So now you know our bias on such wines.  We do not have to have the biggest, most intense, ripe-to-over-ripe red in our glass.  
We prefer wines we can actually drink and enjoy a second (or third) glass.

The tasting featured wines from 2015  and 2016.  The 2015s, following the challenging vintage of 2014, were widely hailed by vintners as a major success.  It seems, though, the 2016s may be even better.  

Mont-Redon has extensive acreage and the vineyards are situated in a variety of soils.  Much of their acreage is on parcels with those large, galets which resemble big potatoes.  But with a range of terroirs, the wine can capture a brilliant level of complexity.

In our blind-tasting, this wine, for me, was a stand-out.  The fruit was brilliant, with red fruits and berries along with darker fruit notes.  There's a hint of woodsiness, but it's not overtly oaky.  It's delightfully drinkable now and yet it can be cellared for another decade, or more.  

We are sure Bob would approve.

Currently in stock:  2015 CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON CHÂTEAUNEUF-du-PAPE  $47.99

DOMAINE AMIDO

This is a very well-run estate featuring vineyards in the Tavel and Lirac appellations.  

When we first visited the estate some years ago, we were driven around the Tavel appellation by the very enthusiastic Christian Amido.  He passed away not long ago, but his spirit lives on as the winery is run by his daughter, grand-daughter Amandine and Amandine's beau, winemaker Antoine Berthaud.

Amido was especially proud of their vineyards and the rather rugged terroir from which his wines were born.

 

We've been especially fond of the Amido Tavel Rosé, a dry, deep Grenache Rose and we've enjoyed the challenge of helping taste various tanks in the winter to assemble just the 'right' blend.

Tavel was the first appellation in France for a rosé wine and it still remains the "top dog" for many connoisseurs of pink wine.

It was supposedly a favorite of Louis XIV in the late 1600s and Philip "Le Bel" in the late 1200s and early 1300s...and here we are, centuries later and still finding Tavel to be a worthy wine.  

 

We had the 2017 Tavel in stock and was delicious!  Lots of berry notes and ripe, fresh fruits.  Dry.  Of course.  The 2018 we tasted was lighter in color and seemed less fruity and less aromatic.  

 

Amido also produces a really lovely Lirac.  Old vine Grenache is the base of this wine, with Syrah and Mourvèdre.  It's bottled without being wood aged and the wine displays lots of fruit, berry and spice notes.  It's usually a good value and hard to beat in the range of Southern Rhône reds...

 

Currently in stock:  2017 Tavel Rosé Sold Out
2014 Lirac $15.99

Antoine, importer Charles Neal and Amandine.

LA CABOTTE

A vigneron from Burgundy was vacationing in Provence some years ago and was biking around the southern Rhône with his grand-kids.  

He was enchanted by this property and ended up purchasing it as a vacation home.  Hard to believe if one lived in Burgundy, they'd want to leave, but perhaps one does tire of drinking great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Today the La Cabotte estate is run by Marie-Pierre d'Ardhuy-Plumet together with her husband Eric Plumet.   

We visited the estate a number of years ago and found the wines to be perfectly standard and well-made, if a bit unexciting.  We've noticed a dramatic improvement in the wines over the past few vintages and the past few vintages have been truly "serious."

The Grenache in the 2017 vintage contributes a wonderful berry note and a mild spice tone.  We understand there's a small percentage of Syrah here and perhaps Cinsault and Carignane. 
Whatever the blend, they've nailed it and you'll have trouble finding a more soulful ten-buck bottle of red wine.   Don't miss this, as it's a good follow-up to the well-received previous 9 or 10 vintages.

Currently in stock:  2017 LA CABOTTE Côtes du Rhône SALE $11.99 

CAVE DE CHANTE PERDRIX

The Verzier family has lived in the Northern Rhone village (if you want to call it a village) of Chavanay since the early 1800s.  Their estate should not be confused with the Southern Rhone Chante Perdrix in Chateauneuf.

It's run by Philippe Verzier, a 40+ year old fellow who qualifies, in our view, as an "old timer."  That's because he's been making wine for more than half his life, vinifying his first crop in 1988!

Philippe's father had cultivated the property using organic farming principles, not as a selling point, but simply because he felt that was the best way to grow grapes.  Dad also grew grain and fruit (aside from grapes) and sold his Syrah to a local grower's cooperative.  Philippe's Pop, though, passed away suddenly as a result of a heart attack and so Verzier found himself suddenly confronted with the impending 1988 harvest.  What to do?  Sell the grapes to the co-op or make wine???

He chose the latter route and today the domain has holdings in Condrieu, St. Joseph and a patch of Syrah just outside the St. Joseph appellation which takes a "Vin de Pays" designation.


Philippe Verzier in the cellar...

 

 

On a visit to the cellar many years ago, I saw a funny-looking wine tank and inquired about its contents.  Philippe said it was merely a "Vin de Pays," coming from vineyards he owned which were near the cellar, but outside the delimited area of Saint-Joseph.  We had a taste and it was a lovely, fruity, simple wine.  It was a bit like Beaujolais, but had the character of Syrah.

Monsieur Verzier's importer brings us some most vintages.  We currently have the 2010, a deeply-colored wine teeming with berry fruit and some of the green olive-like notes of youthful Northern Rhone Syrah.  We are able to offer it for a price less than cru Beaujolais.  In tasting numerous California Syrahs from small wineries, we've found few which capture the character of the Rhone Valley...and none the price of this baby.  Don't except a wine of Cote-Rotie complexity, but if you appreciate the character of Syrah from Cote-Rotie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage and you're capable of enjoying a simple, easy-drinkin' version, you might be pleasantly surprised by what you find here.   We currently have the 2010 vintage and it's delicious!




Condrieu is a tremendous appellation and a very prestigious wine these days.  Years ago, hardly anyone outside of the Northern Rhone paid any attention to Condrieu and its lovely wines made of the Viognier grape.  
Philippe actually lives just above his Condrieu vineyards and he produces a tiny amount of a rather nice example.  The sub-soil is granite, in case you're taking notes.

We have a few other bottlings in the shop in which the oak barrels play a great role, but Verzier's wine, though a percentage is matured in wood, tastes purely of the grape.  
The 2010 just arrived and it's dry and nicely crisp.  It's not as big a Viognier as those with all the wood, but still displays good varietal character.  If you're having some prawns, crab or lobster, this might be just the ticket!



The 2009 Saint-Joseph is exceptional and worthy of comparison with names such as Graillot, Combier, Gonon and the like.  It's a fine bottle of Syrah, coming from 20 year old vines.  He de-stems about 70% of the fruit, leaving some stems in the fermentation tank.  The wine is dark in color and has a wonderfully Syrah-like fragrance with notes of blackberries, herbs, underbrush and some spice.  It's a great partner for lamb, duck or well-seasoned stews, etc.

 

Currently in stock:  2010 CHANTE-PERDRIX Vin de Pays SYRAH  Sold Out
2009 CHANTE-PERDRIX Saint Joseph "Empreinte" Sold Out
2010 CHANTE-PERDRIX Condrieu "Authentique"  Sold Out

 

 

 

DOMAINE DU JONCIER

Unlike so many French wineries which claim to have a history dating back several centuries, the Joncier estate is fairly new.

It was founded in the 1960s by Pierre Roussel and today his daughter Marine runs the place.  Winemaking wasn't in her blood, though, initially.  She actually worked as a graphic artist before finally deciding her creative talents might be put to good use by managing the family vineyard and cellar in the Southern Rhone town of Lirac.

We found her 2010 Lirac, dubbed "Le Classique" to be, well, classic.  It's a terrific blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with a dollop of Cinsault and Carignan.  The wine is fairly dark in color and the Southern Rhone spice notes are a delight showing berries, a touch of pepper and a faintly earthy note.

If dinner features some sort of lamb dish, this will be a fine accompaniment.

Currently in stock:  2010 DOMAINE DU JONCIER LIRAC $21.99

 

 

 

DOMAINE du PEGAU

We had a memorable visit with the charming Laurence Feraud, stopping in unannounced one warm spring afternoon.  This 32 acre property has parcels in three different areas of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with many old vines, some dating back to the turn of the century.   

The winemaking is very traditional.  They don't use much sulfur and they supposedly do not fine nor filter their wines.  The wines are matured in old, huge wooden vats or foudres.  Though the property is rather old and Monsieur Feraud has been making wines for years, they used to sell most of the production to négociants.  

With the help of his daughter, Pegau now bottles its own production.   We have had many vintages of Pegau and find the wines to be consistently good.   The "normal" bottling of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is often our favorite.   The special bottlings, such as Cuvée Laurence, are bigger, more intense and alcoholic wines.  Showy?  Sure.  Better?  Not necessarily.   

The 2012 regular bottling is medium-full bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  We've encountered a mildly spicy quality in this wine and there's a faintly gamey note, too.  It's the sort of wine which pairs handsomely with lamb or duck.  Decanting it and allowing it to breathe for an hour or two is a good idea.

 

Currently in stock:   2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (list $90)  Sale $74.99

 

DOMAINE du GRAND MONTMIRAIL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This 59 acres property is owned by Yves Cheron.  You'll see the "Montmirail" name on a number of Gigondas estates and this is done to keep American wine drinkers thoroughly confused.   This estate's wines, though, arrive at a reasonable price and the several vintages we've had in the shop have routinely been popular enough that we see customers start with one bottle and return for 6.

 

Inside the cellar.

 

The spectacular Dentelles de Montmirail.

 

The pebbly soil allows for good drainage and forces the root system of the vine to plunge deep into the earth.


Making a blend.

This bottling is named "Les Deux Juliettes," after the daughters named Juliette of Monsieur Cheron and importer Charles Neal.  Old vine Grenache (if 40-50 year old vines qualify for this designation) accounts for 80% of the blend.  The balance is 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre.  The current vintage, 2016, is exceptionally drinkable, showing lots of typical berry and spice notes.  Medium-full-bodied.  It will cellar well for another 3-5 years (at least), but it's so good now...we're not waiting!

Currently in stock:  2016 Gigondas "Les Deux Juliettes"  $22.99 

 

 

 

 

CAVE DE RASTEAU

The Cave de Rasteau was founded in 1925, making it one of the oldest grower's cooperative cellars in the Rhône Valley.

The town of Rasteau produces really exceptional Côtes du Rhône wines and we've found, thanks to our friend Valerie Aigron (she worked in the export department of the winery) a really nice, simply, satisfying and price-worthy red.

The 2016 Côtes du Rhône under their "Ortas" label is deep in color and displays lots of berries and spice.  Grenache based and the wine shows the berry and spice of Grenache.  The wine is not especially complex, being easy-to-drink and not requiring much cellaring.  

 

This is a nice wine to pair with lamb, whether you're grilling chops or braising shanks, here's a lovely accompaniment.  While local vintners here in California are proud to offer Grenache-based blends for $20-$50, here's the real thing for a mere ten bucks.

Valerie Aigron, formerly of the Cave de Rasteau

Currently in stock:  2016 ORTAS CÔTES DU RHONE  SALE  $9.99

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