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More Sauvignon
Blancs !
- THE OJAI VINEYARD
2009 Santa Barbara County Sauvignon Blanc $24.99
 Adam Tolmach is
one of the leading winemakers in the Santa Barbara County area. Never
mind that his winery is actually located in neighboring Ventura County.
Adam has made Sauvignon Blanc for many years. More than a decade ago
the wine had a substantial percentage of Semillon and oak, his wines
emulating some top white Bordeaux. I'd say recent vintages have been
more along the lines of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé wines.
The grapes come from what was known as the Westerly vineyard, which is not in the western part
of the Santa Ynez Valley but in the eastern portion of that
appellation. These days it's called The McGinley Vineyard. Adam gets them to farm it the way he prefers, viewing the
wine more as an artistic endeavor rather than as a hugely commercial
one. The production per acre is rather small, but it does allow the
grape to shine and bring along with it some "terroir."
They've improved their general viticulture and now farm
"organically," as we understand the current state of affairs.
The 2009 vintage is the current, recent release and, much like last year's
wine, this is superb. It's quite dry and has more of an herbal streak
than citrus. You can't mistake this for anything but Sauvignon
Blanc. That said, it's not a wine for the average wine drinker...it
may actually put off some tasters since the character of the Sauvignon is
rather intense.
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MAURITSON
 The
Mauritson family has acreage in Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley. Ages
ago, it became apparent that this region was particularly well-suited to
Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. But many of the wineries which grow
Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek now augment their wine with fruit from other
areas.
We like the Mauritson's wine because it tastes like Sauvignon Blanc from the
Dry Creek Valley. As it should. There's a grapefruity and stony,
minerally element we don't often find in California Sauvignons.
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- Currently in stock: 2009 MAURITSON Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon
Blanc $13.99
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SELENE
 The Selene
label is that of winemaker Mia Klein. She's worn a lot of winemaking
hats, being affiliated with wineries such as Etude, Dalla Valle, Chappellet,
Robert Pepi and now she's at Fisher Vineyards.
Her Sauvignon Blanc comes from the famous Hyde Vineyards in Carneros.
This vineyard features a special clone of Sauvignon called Musqué.
It's said to be less vegetative in fragrance and flavor and more fruity:
think tangy nectarine and grapefruit. Ms. Klein gives the wine a bit
of wood, but it's not the predominant character of the wine.
Some of the juice goes into oak and some into stainless steel. All
remains on the lees for several months to give the wine more richness and
dimension.
Selene Sauvignon is fairly full and intense, so pairing it with
well-seasoned white meats or seafood is ideal. The 2009 is
superb...I've shared bottles of previous vintages with visiting winemakers from Europe who have
been "wowed" by this wine.
- Currently in stock: 2009 Selene Sauvignon Blanc (List $29)
SALE $25.99
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TRES SABORES
 This
brand started out with Julie Johnson having three winemakers produce
Zinfandel and so there were three "Sabores" or flavors, each
winemaker producing a decidedly different wine.
We recently tasted a delightful Sonoma Mountain Sauvignon Blanc of
Julie's, a wine that captures a gorgeously citrusy character and a faint
stoniness. They fermented half the juice in stainless steel and did
the other half in seasoned (they call them "previously
inspired") French oak. Then it was matured for 8 months
on the yeast sediment to add additional body and complexity.
Nicely done!
Julie, by the way, was a founding partner with John Williams and Larry
Turley in a little venture called Frog's Leap. That was, however, in
a previous lifetime.
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Currently in stock: TRES SABORES 2010 Sauvignon Blanc $17.99
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HAGAFEN
 Few
California vintners pick their grapes at 21 or 22 degrees brix (a measure
of sugar). For most, that's way too low, yielding a wine of merely
12 or 12.5% alcohol. Everyone wants to make powerful wines...wines
viewed as "important."
Winemaker Ernie Weir is an old-timer and he hasn't changed his style of
winemaking to meet today's fashion for extreme wines, sweet wines or
high-octane bottlings.
Another feature of the Hagafen winery is that the wines are
Kosher. This used to be THE major selling point for this brand many years
ago. But nobody makes a fuss over Colgate toothpaste or Comet cleanser
being Kosher and today the sales pitch for Hagafen is more about the quality of
the wine. That they are Kosher is only incidental.
On the other hand, making Kosher wines has its challenges: a couple of
important Jewish holidays tend to fall during the grape harvest, so Weir has to
plan ahead for details such as picking and cellar work.
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Currently in stock: HAGAFEN 2010 Napa SAUVIGNON
BLANC SALE $16.99
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CLARK CLAUDON
 The
Clark Claudon label is better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon wine than
for Sauvignon Blanc.
I've tasted this wine on several occasions and found it to be a most
enchanting bottle of wine. The fruit comes from vineyards managed by
Clark & Claudon's son (Clark Vineyard Management). It's entirely
Sauvignon Blanc and one of the two clones is the aromatic Sauvignon Musqué.
We find citrusy, grapefruity notes and a peach-like tone in the
wine. It's dry, but not especially acidic...I almost wish it had a
touch more of a 'bite' to it. But it's a lovely wine, especially
paired with seafood.
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Currently in stock: CLARK CLAUDON Napa "Wild
Iris" Sauvignon Blanc $24.99
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CLOUDY BAY
 This winery became an overnight success back in the
mid-1980s on the strength of good wines and favorable reviews from some important critics.
This winery is the leading name in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, though many New Zealanders
are curious as to why the wine is SO popular, since they often feel others do as
fine a job with the grape. Well, when you're identified as the "best" (and the
first), people tend to want to buy your wine. Imported to the U.S. market by the Clicquot
Champagne folks, this wine is sold, for the most part, to those establishments which
manage to move a lot of Clicquot Champagne. We like the Cloudy Bay wines and enjoy, from
time to time, their Sauvignon Blanc. Some describe it as having the
"gooseberry," citrus and lychee fragrances and flavors which are typical of New
Zealand's Sauvignons.
Currently available: 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Sold Out
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MULDERBOSCH
 This
is a highly-acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc estate in South Africa.
Their wine is somewhat akin to New Zealand Sauvignons, though there's a
stony element which may remind you of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume.
The wine is modest in terms of alcohol and oak is not a feature here.
Currently in stock: 2009 MULDERBOSCH Sauvignon Blanc $19.99
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ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY
 Mr.
Mondavi is to be credited with Sauvignon Blanc being as popular as it is in the U.S.
market. He made Sauvignon in 1966 as a dry wine. In 1967 he made a sweet
wine. He came up with the name "Fumé Blanc" and his wine was instantly
popular, a finer alternative to the white wines of those days: Grey Riesling, Chenin
Blanc, Green Hungarian and California "Chablis."
Over the years they've
continued to make good "Fumé Blanc," adding a "Reserve" bottling and
a regional bottling to their line-up. Most stunning is a Fumé Blanc from an old
vineyard called "To Kalon," which has been planted since 1868 and was planted by
Henry Crabb. Mondavi claims it is the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in
California. They made a special bottling called "I-Block" amounting to but
a few hundred cases. Much in the style of a top white Bordeaux, this is excellent,
but expensive. It's a far cry from the watery wine they make out in Lodi's
"Woodbridge" area!
Mondavi raised the price from an ambitious $50 to $75 and we lost interest
in the wine...I noticed the distributor no longer even offers this special
bottling, so I suppose the Mondavi folks are drinking it all themselves.
- Currently in stock: 2002 Mondavi "To Kalon - I Block"
Fumé Blanc
Sold Out
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- TEMENT
2005 Austrian SAUVIGNON BLANC "Zieregg" $54.99
 I
am certain that few people walking through our doors has even the slightest
clue that some of the world's best Sauvignon Blanc wines are made in
Austria's Steiermark region.
An Italian friend who lives in the Alto Adige (they call it the Sudtirol)
told me he organizes a blind-tasting of Sauvignons every year and Tement's
wine usually wins.
Not surprised.
Tement makes great Sauvignons. He has two or three of them. The normal
bottling is nearly as aromatic and certainly as distinctive as a good New
Zealand bottling. Dry without being overly tart or lean.
The special bottling is called Zieregg and it's as costly as some of Didier
Daguenau's Pouilly-Fumé wines and certainly in the same quality
range. This bottling features a nice bit of wood, too. Not too
much though. It's not well-distributed these days, but every once in a
while we get a call from someone who "knows." If you've
adventuresome, you may wish to join this exclusive little 'club'.
2005 is the current vintage.
Splendid, too.
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- NEUMEISTER
- The Neumeister family has about 50 acres of vineyards in Austria's
Steiermark region. Located in the town of Straden, the, this is very
close to Slovenia and Hungary.
Soil types here tend toward volcanic and basalt. The rather cool
climate produces marvelous Sauvignon Blanc wines and we're fond of the
Neumeister's efforts.
Their "Klassik" Sauvignon Blanc is a delight.
We currently have the 2003 vintage in stock and it's a
remarkably fresh, citrusy and dry wine. The grape dominates as oak is not
a feature of this wine. This is a good match for all sorts of seafood, but
it can be partnered with well-seasoned, spicy foods, too.
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Currently in stock: 2003 Neumeister Steierische
Klassik Sauvignon Sold Out
The Neumeister family has a modern tasting room, so if you find yourself in
their neighborhood, do stop by.
They own a small "inn" called Schlafgut Saziani
which is most comfortable. It's reasonably-priced, too.
Their restaurant was closed when we visited, but it's apparently a
well-regarded, somewhat fancy place which is frequently written up in the
various gourmet guides.
Here's the website: http://www.neumeister.cc/en_index.asp
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CLOS HENRI 2008
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc $18.99
 There
has been quite a flood of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wines arriving in
our market. It's no secret that many of the wines produced there are
excellent expressions of the grape.
A real validation for the Marlborough region was the arrival of the
Bourgeois family from France's Loire Valley. Their arrival was
rather like the Baron Rothschild's or Christian Moueix' interest in owning
a piece of the Napa Valley far from their Bordeaux homes.
Bourgeois is the leading ambassador for the Sauvignons from various top
Loire appellations, especially that of Sancerre.
The land purchased by the Bourgeois family was virgin vineyard
territory, featuring three soil types. They're planting several hectares
annually and expect this to be a 12 year project before reaching the finish
line. They expect to plant about 65 hectares of the 100 hectare estate.
We find the Clos Henri wine to combine elements of top Loire
Valley Sauvignons with top New Zealand wines. Having notes of each makes
for an unusually complex bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, no matter the wine's
birthplace. We like the minerality of this wine, as well as the
spicy pineapple and citrus tones. It's got more 'weight' than your average
New Zealand Sauvignon, yet it's not as potent as most California
Sauvignons.
We're big fans and delighted to have some bottles to share with our
customers. Don't miss this. I included the 2006 in a
blind-tasting with 7 Loire Valley Sauvignons. I ranked this in my top 3
and did not find it 'stood out' as something particularly different as would
most New Zealand wines.
The 2008 is a good representation for the Clos Henri
brand. It's bridges the gap between the superficial, fruity New Zealand
Sauvignons and the more subtle, minerally wines from Sancerre. Think of it
as a New Zealand Sauvignon with a French accent.
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ROCHIOLI
 The
Rochioli story goes back to the late 1930s when they purchased some land
in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. For years they sold grapes to
local wineries. When it became fashionable to produce "single
vineyard" wines with the grower identified on the label, the Rochioli
name became well known for Pinot Noir.
Like many growers, they saw the prices for wines made from their own fruit
and decided they ought to use those grapes for their own brand. And
so, the Rochioli Winery was born in the 1980s. Teaming up with a
national marketing group, prices have escalated to the point where we no
longer ask "What does this cost?," but "how much is the
ransom?"
Sauvignon Blanc from this producer, though, is quite good. It
displays herbal and citrusy notes which makes it a good partner for
seafood...especially dishes seasoned with lemon grass, cilantro, basil or
mint.
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Currently in stock: 2009 ROCHIOLI Sauvignon Blanc
$39.99
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ATA RANGI
 Ata
Rangi is a famous name for New Zealand wines and their Pinot Noirs have a
phenomenal track record.
The vineyards and cellar we begun in the early 1980s and today they
produce roughly 15,000 cases of various wines.
The property is not in Marlborough, but Martinborough. Sauvignon
Blanc is a bit different from the flood of Marlborough wines we see today.
Only 10% of the juice is fermented in wood and the resulting wine offers a
hint of lemon grass and gooseberry with a faint spice note. We enjoy
this with seafood, especially sea scallops, Asian-styled dishes and
sushi.
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Currently in stock: ATA RANGI 2010 Martinborough
SAUVIGNON BLANC $20.99
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ANDREW RICH
 Andrew
Rich produces some delightfully soulful wines at the Winemaker's Studio in
Oregon's Willamette Valley.
We're fans of his Pinot Noirs the past few vintages and his Sauvignon
Blanc has been exceptional and, we feel, the reference point for the
variety in Oregon.
It comes from Croft Vineyards, a major (certified organic) grower in Polk
County. What's fascinating about Andrew's Sauvignons is the vintage
variation. The 2008 struck us as more herbal and 'green' in
character, while the 2009 seems more peachy and ripe. It's an
exceptional wine.
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Currently in stock: ANDREW RICH 2009 Willamette
Valley SAUVIGNON BLANC $19.99
SAINT CLAIR
 The
Ibbotsons began as grape growers in the late 1970s and began making wine
in the mid-1990s. They're in the Marlborough region of New Zealand
on a property settled by someone named Sinclair. Today the place is
called Saint Clair.
We've been fans of their hugely expressive, not-so-subtle Sauvignon
Blancs.
The wine routinely is very aromatic and "loud". I recall
pouring a taste of a Saint Clair Sauvignon for a visiting French winemaker
and the fellow winced when he stuck his nose in the glass. Expecting
a Sauvignon he could recognize with overt minerality and hints of citrus,
the fellow found something which was a world apart from the wine he
makes...
So, instead of a wine clothed in a suit & tie, he found something more
reminiscent of this get-up:
Okay...maybe we're being a bit extreme in describing the Saint
Clair wine, but it's a wonderful rendition of New Zealand Sauvignon with loads
of citrus, gooseberry and grapefruit. At it's not a shy, shrinking violet
of a wine which is why we like enjoying a bottle from time to time.
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Currently in stock: SAINT CLAIR 2009 Marlborough
SAUVIGNON BLANC Sale $15.99
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