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South African Wines

- KANONKOP ESTATE
The Krige family has owned this property for many years. The place
was founded by their grandfather, Paul Sauer.
The name of the place comes from the Dutch word "kopje" which
refers to the top of the hill...and way back in the 17th century, on this
hill, a canon was fired to alert local farmers that a Dutch East India
trading ship had docked and they ought to go barter their produce for goods
brought by boat from who-knows-where.
Kanonkop is one of the real gems from South Africa. Their winemaking
history goes back to 1973 from a commercial perspective.
I had a chance to taste through a range of wines and vintages in early
2014...impressive was how well the Pinotage ages, for example. Their
Pinotage tasted great as a young wine, but a more than 10 year old vintage
was really elegant and remarkably complex.
It is a label which I've found to be reliable...the quality is good and
their two higher-priced wines are gems and of world class quality.
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Today
they farm about 100 hectares, just about all of it being planted with red
grapes. This Stellenbosch estate is regarded by many as a reference
point for Pinotage. Their proprietary red wine called "Paul
Sauer" is one of South Africa's most sought-after wines.
It's typically aged in new Nevers oak barrels, so the wine tends to show a
fair bit of woodsy, cedary oak notes on the palate and bouquet.
Cabernet Sauvignon is the base, with a bit of Cab Franc and Merlot.
The vines are 24 years old on average, so they're mature and producing
something like 2 tons per acre.
We have the delightful and youthful 2014 in stock. It's 74% Cabernet Sauvignon,
9% Cabernet Franc and 17%
Merlot.
Matured for 24 months in brand new French oak, so you'll easily detect the
woodsy bouquet of this wine.
Very fine now and yet it can be cellared another decade, if you like.

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"Kadette" is a secondary level wine and intended for immediate
drinking, rather than cellaring. The 2018 is a blend of Pinotage, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a drop of Petit Verdot. It's a
berryish, soft, dry red with fairly low acidity...it's more fruit-driven
though it does get some time in small wood cooperage, though the wood is
typically second and third fill barrels.
Pinotage is seriously good here...they have really old vines of this variety and
make a deep, dark, woodsy wine.
It's a well-made red wine and a good deal
more complex than most Pinotage. Further, it avoids that "burnt
rubber" sort of character which we find from time to time in South
African red wines.
The 2017 has lots of dark berries (blackberry and maybe cranberry) and the brushy,
woodsy notes are interesting and complex. They use a high
percentage of new oak barrels for this wine and yet there's enough Pinotage
here to stand up to the wood.
- Currently available: 2014 Kanonkop "Paul Sauer" $59.99
2018 "Kadette" $17.99
2017 Pinotage Sale Price: $39.99
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MULLINEUX
- Andrea
Mullineux is a Bay Area native who says wine was a part of her family life
as she grew up and that exposure seems to have had a very good impact on
her.
She studied at UC Davis before working some harvests in Napa, followed by
a vintage in South Africa's Stellenbosch region. She came back to
the Northern Hemisphere where she did some industrial espionage in
France's Southern Rhône. Attending a celebratory wine
festival in Champagne, she met her future husband, Chris and the couple
went back to his native South Africa where they launched a small wine
production in 2007. He had worked at South Africa's de Trafford and
Rustenberg wineries.
They chose the Swartland region, thinking that the granite and schist
soils could produce some remarkably soulful wines.
Clearly they're on the right track.
We were pleasantly surprised when we first tasted the wines and met
Andrea.
"Old Vines" white comes from seven different parcels of
vineyards and it's a blend of five different grape varieties.
Chenin Blanc takes center stage. There's Grenache Blanc from an 8
year old vineyard, while the Chenin Blanc vines range in age from 38 to
about 65. There's a 41 year old Clairette Blanc vineyard and the
Semillon comes from a 57 year old vineyard. The Viognier
vineyard is 18 years of age.
The recipe for this wine calls for chilling the just-picked grapes,
whole-cluster pressing and then allowing the juice to settle
overnight. The juice goes into barrel and the juice is fermented
using indigenous yeast. They say the fermentation typically bubbles
along for about 8 weeks. It undergoes a malolactic fermentation and
the wine remains on the spent yeast before the barrels are racked and
blended. Bottling takes place without filtration.
There's a nice green apple character of the Chenin Blanc and we like the
stony notes on the nose and palate. It's a delightful bottle of wine
and seems to be developing a bit more complexity as it ages.
Even with the grape varieties one normally finds in the Rhône Valley,
this wine tips its cap to Loire Valley whites such as Savennières,
Saumur, etc. If we mentioned Vouvray, some people would shy away
thinking it's got some sweetness. In fact, it's quite dry and
reasonably crisp.

They now make an entry-level label and the 2020 vintage of their Kloof Street
Chenin Blanc is quite good.
It's vinified primarily in stainless steel tanks with 15% of the juice going
into cooperage for its fermentation.
You'll find classically fruity, green apple Chenin aromas and flavors.
It's dry, by the way.
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we tasted their Syrah we found a wine that reminded us of a number of
favorite Northern Rhône wines.
In fact we queried Andrea about this, saying she must have experience in
tasting/appreciating/imbibing wines from Cornas and Côte-Rôtie. In
fact, this was the case as she mentioned some favorite vignerons there.
Mullineux 2015 is made entirely of Syrah.
The grapes come from seven sites. They're big on trumpeting the
virtues of the soil types, a detail few consumers care that much about.
We've never had a customer ask if we have a Syrah grown on shale and
schist. Or granite soils. We've never had someone ask if we
have a Syrah from iron-rich vineyard sites. But here you have all of
those.
The vineyards are matured, but not ancient. Twenty to 27 years of
age we're told.
They de-stemmed half of the fruit and added whole bunches to the
fermentation tanks. It took a few days for the fermentation to kick
off. The fermentation lasted a week, or so, but the skins
remained in contact with the wine for three to seven weeks, according to
the level of tannin extraction. Despite the extended skin contact
time, they're not looking to make a Barolo.
Maturation takes place in barriques, puncheons and foudre. No
filtering. No fining.
They've done a good job in producing a South African Syrah with a slight
French accent.
It's showing handsomely presently and likely will continue to grow and
become more complex with additional cellaring.
They make some single terroir wines...Chenin Blancs from Schist,
Granite and Quartz sites. There are Syrahs from Granite, Schist and
Iron terroirs.
We can't say we found the Chenin Blancs to quite justify the $90 price
tags. The Syrahs go for about $120 a bottle and we can show you some
Côte-Rôtie and other spiffy Rhônes we like in that price range.
If you want to special order the Single Terroir wines, let us know.
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Currently in stock: MULLINEUX 2020 OLD VINES
WHITE $29.99
MULLINEUX 2015 SYRAH $36.99
KLOOF STREET CHENIN BLANC $29.99
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TOKARA
- A wealthy business man from South Africa started this little enterprise
in 1994. Gerrit T. Ferreira made his money in banking and
insurance. He had purchased a little estate in the
Stellenbosch region as a residential get-away. But it soon became
apparent, given the area was already producing some good wines, that maybe
planting a vineyard would be an interesting idea.
They have several vineyard sites, but the main one is within sniffing
distance of the winery. They have a fair bit of acreage on the
Simonsberg hills, a mere 3 miles from the town of Stellenbosch.

About 60 miles south of the main vineyard site is their
"Siberia" property. This is in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
(Walker Bay area) and there they've planted Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc,
Semillon, Grenache and Shiraz. Their Highland estate (Elgin)
is nearly in between Siberia and the Stellenbosch property and that's
planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with just a tiny parcel of
Semillon.
The winemaker for this lovely project is Miles Mossop, who's had practical
experiences in France's Rhone Valley, Italy's Sicilia, Australia's Clare
Valley, as well as at the famous Thelema winery in New Zealand. He's
now got more than a dozen harvests under his belt at Tokara and the wines
are terrific.
Tokara also cultivates a number of different types of olives and they
produce several bottlings of oil.
They also have a deli, if you're in the neighborhood and up for a
picnic. Or you can book at table at their fancy little restaurant
where they showcase their wines.
We included a couple of Tokara Sauvignon Blancs in a blind-tasting and the
wines. I liked their Elgin Reserve, but both that and the
entry-level bottling showed nicely.
Of serious quality are their Directors Reserve wines.

- Even more remarkable is the Director's White. It's 74% Sauvignon
Blanc and 24% Semillon, reminding us of our favorite (and now very
expensive) White Bordeaux from Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte. They use
puncheons for fermenting the Sauvignon Blanc and smaller barriques for the
Semillon, with maybe 30% of the wood being brand new. We've had
bottles of this open in our tasting room and it routinely impresses
tasters sufficiently that they're more than willing to part with $37 to
take a bottle (or more) home with them.
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Currently in stock:
2012 TOKARA Director's White $36.99 (last bottles)
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HAMILTON RUSSELL
We'd
seen this winery's name mentioned from time to time as one of the prime
Burgundian estates in South Africa.
Finally, years ago, we'd had a chance to taste their wines and these guys certainly
have the right idea about Chardonnay!
They're in a cool climate region called Walker Bay. The growing season
features breezes blowing in off the Atlantic which moderates the
temperatures.
The founder, Tim Hamilton Russell, had been looking for a southerly site
which would moderate the ripening of noble varieties such as Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir and a few others. He purchased 175 hectares and planted a
few with various grapes. In 1991 his son Anthony took over with the
idea of focusing solely on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He further
designated the winery as an "Estate," which means they cannot
purchase grapes to augment their production. They can only utilize
fruit from their own vineyards.
They have 30 hectares of Chardonnay, spread out amongst some 21 different
parcels.
The Hamilton Russell team crops its Chardonnay at a rather modest level,
around 2 tons per acre. This, of course, can account for greater
intensity of character in the grapes.
Their soils are stony which may account for the lovely minerality of this
wine. But it's got amazing depth and intensity, featuring a wonderful
toasty character and a hint of smoke. Exceptionally
complete. This will be an eye-opener to folks who are as skeptical
about South African wines as I was...The 2019 continues their tradition of
excellence.
Some 90% of the wine was in French oak...a small amount was in foudre, a
tiny quantity was in a concrete egg and five percent was in stainless
steel. Their oak "secret" is the use of François Freres
barrels. These contribute a special fragrance and flavor.
We should note, parenthetically, that a few years ago, the Chardonnay was
cited by an American wine publication as being on their Top 100 list.
Suddenly the wine became unavailable to us, despite our long-standing
support of this wine. All these "new" accounts were
demanding the wine and, to spread the love, the wine was doled out under the
marketing guise of "building the brand."
When updating this page (a couple of years following the great accolades for
this wine) I decided to check a few web
sites and, lo and behold, those companies who were allocated some cases of
this, these days don't bother carrying the current vintage! It's no
longer worth carrying if it doesn't have the approval of the so-called
experts.
Pinot Noir comprises some 22 hectares at Hamilton Russell and this is
scattered over some 8 vineyard sites.
Yields
are typically rather low. That's part of their secret.
Good French oak is another.
They don't make a California-styled Pinot Noir, as the wine tends to be somewhat
more akin to a good French wine.
Lower alcohol. A bit of tannin. Serious wine.
- The 2020 Pinot Noir is quite good. It's really come along nicely the
past several vintages. The wine is remarkably complex, showing dark
cherry and some beet root tones. Medium-bodied and very fine.
Currently in stock: 2019 Chardonnay $44.99 (limited)
2020 Pinot Noir $49.99
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mvemveraats
- This is a newish brand of wine in South Africa, a collaboration between
two vintners making wine from the Stellenbosch region.
We were scouting for some South African wines and saw a vintage of this MR
de Compostella wine in the catalogue of a South African importer, so we
purchased a bottle from the distributor, despite its lofty price.
Joining some wine friends one afternoon for a little lunch break and
exploration, we opened several bottles of wines and this proved to be a
most delightful surprise!
The "M" is a fellow named Mzokhona Mvemve while the
"R" is Bruwer Raats.
We know their wine is held in high regard in South Africa, but here
finding customers for relatively unknown, expensive bottles is
challenging, so it's not clear we will have access for this wine.
It's supposed to sell for $80-$90 a bottle. We were interested to
taste it anyway, for you never know if something is going to be a really
exceptional wine and worthy of its lofty price.
We found the wine to be really good, though and judged it as a bit
ambitiously priced.
When we checked with a sales rep from the distribution company, we were
delighted to learn they had reduced the price, apparently closing out the
remaining inventory.
As a result, we have a small quantity of their 2016 vintage in the shop.
These two guys are big fans of Cabernet Franc, but they also have Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. They'll tell you each of
this is planted in ideal soils which are well-suited to the particular
variety.
They will vinify and age each of the five varieties individually by
vineyard block. After a year in wood, these are then tasted by the
two vintners and they will eliminate any batch which doesn't hit the
requisite score of "90" on their 100 point scale.
We find this admirable and amusing. It's admirable because, on one
hand, selecting absolutely top quality lots for a blend is a worthy
endeavor. But it's also amusing since using this rigid approach may
not yield the best blend.
We have a 2016 in the shop and, having just checked the distribution
company's online portfolio we see they are not currently offering a more
recent vintage (such as the 2018, the current wine offered in July of
2022). The wine goes for about $100 US in South Africa, so we
understand why the distributor may have less interest in such a
wine. The importer, though, has or had both 2017 and 2018 vintages.
The 2016 is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 12%
Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot. We like the dark fruit of the
Cabernet and perhaps we get a bit of body from the Petit Verdot?
They use roughly one-third new barrels and the wine displays a mildly
cedary complexity.
It's supposed to retail for around $95 and we have the remaining bottles
sale-tagged at $49.99.
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Currently in stock: 2017 mvemveraats MR de
Compostella SALE $49.99


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BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
You
may recognize the Bouchard name as it's that of a prominent family in
France's Burgundy region.
Finlayson is a name you may not be familiar with, but Peter Finlayson
spent more than a decade in the cellars at Hamilton Russell, a world-class
winery (noted above).
In 1989 Finlayson and Paul Bouchard built a winery in the same
neighborhood as Hamilton Russell, the Walker Bay region. They're in
a valley called Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven & Earth) and the winery
specializes in Pinot Noir.
Finlayson is, apparently, a fan of Italian wines and makes a 'minestrone'
blend featuring Sangiovese (he calls the wine Hannibal!), Pinot Noir and
Nebbiolo, along with Shiraz, Mourvedre and Barbera!
But Finlayson makes really nice Chardonnay. It's, for my
taste, not quite as complex as the Hamilton Russell wine, but it is a rather
good bottle of wine. This comes from a site called the Kaaimansgaat
Vineyard from the Overberg appellation which is about an hour's drive east of
the winery. It's at a higher altitude than the vineyards near the
cellar.
We have the 2014 in stock and this is a wine made along the lines of a White
Burgundy...barrel fermented and left on the spent yeast sediment.
It's still young and they seem to have the idea of making a wine that's going to
grow and blossom with time in the bottle.
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Currently in stock: 2014 BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
CHARDONNAY "Kaaimansgaat Vineyard" $26.99
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KLEIN CONSTANTIA
- This
historical property traces wine growing back to the 1600s and it was the
source of a world-famous sweet wine in the 1800s.
The property changed hands numerous times and was in serious disrepair
when the current owners purchased it in 1980. It took them until
1986 before they had their first vintage in this modern era of Klein
Constantia.
It's known that there were several types of Muscat cultivated in South
Africa hundreds of years ago and the owners in the 1980s through 2010s, the Jooste family,
did extensive research to try to produce a wine similar to the
much-celebrated Vin de Constance of the 18th and 19th centuries.
They think they're cultivating a clone of Muscat (de Frontignan) which
came from vine-stock with roots going back to the original
plantings.
The winery was sold in 2011 to a Czech-American fellow Zdenek Bakala and a
British chap named Charles Harman.
The wine is remarkable and it's a treat to taste and savor. The
grapes are left on the vine until the shrivel up and dehydrate. They
are not affected by botrytis we're told. They pick, typically, over
the course of a two month period, harvesting high acid fruit to start and
picking in stages until the last shriveled bunches of intensely sweet
fruit are brought in. Some of the fruit is allowed to dehydrate a
bit to concentrate the sugar.
They seem to have changed the vinification and aging of this wine over the
years.
The 2017 weighs in at 14.0% alcohol, whereas older vintages had been
around 12%. This is a touch sweeter, too. The wine is matured
in wood, with the use of small French oak barrels along with acacia
barrels and large foudres. It's sweet, to be sure, but the
acidity is pretty high, too, easily making for a balanced wine.
If you've never tasted this wine and don't mind splurging, this is worth a
try.
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Currently in stock: KLEIN CONSTANTIA 2017 "Vin
de Constance" (list $100) SALE $79.99


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ANTHONIJ RUPERT
If
you have a quick look at the label for this Rupert wine and the label
reminds you a bit of the one gracing bottles of Lafite Rothschild, well,
here's why:
Two insanely wealthy families, South Africa's Rupert clan and one of
France's Rothschild's set up a wine company.
There's still a Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons, run by the
"kids" of the late founding fathers.
And while there are wines made under the collaborative brand name, this
enterprise is solely that of the Rupert family.
The late old man Rupert dropped out of college and ran a dry cleaning
store before starting up a little cigarette-making enterprise in a
garage. Rothman's was a brand with which he was affiliated as well
as a company of Swiss luxury goods which had brands such as Cartier,
Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Baume & Mercier and few other items under
the corporate umbrella
I believe I did say "insanely wealthy," didn't I?
The Anthonij Rupert wine comes out of an historic farm called L'Ormarins
which the Rupert family bought in 1969. Anthonij Rupert died in a
car crash in 2001 and old man Rupert passed away in 2006, so these days
the eldest son of Anton Rupert, Johann, is at the helm of this
business and a bunch of other concerns.
- To honor his late brother, he created the Anthonij Rupert label.
We have the 2009 vintage of a Bordeaux-styled blend called Optima.
It's comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. The three varieties are vinified separately and matured
for about a year and a half in small French oak. Then they assemble
a blend of the three and the blend goes back into wood for another 6
months. Another nice feature is they don't rush the wine to
market...they give it two years in bottle before sending it out of the
winery.
The wine displays lots of dark fruit notes...blackcurrant and maybe dark
berry fruit with notes of cedar and mild vanillin. It's quite
drinkable now and rather showy, too.
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Currently in stock: ANTHONIJ RUPERT 2009
"OPTIMA" Sold Out




- MEERLUST
- Located some 15 kilometers from Stellenbosch and just five kilometers
inland from False Bay, Meerlust has been run by the Myburgh family for 8 generations.
The current owner studied at Germany's famed Geisenheim wine school and is said to
have spent some time at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild in Bordeaux.
For 25 vintages, a fellow from Friuli, Giorgio Dalla Cia was the
winemaker. These days he's busy with his own little wine & grappa
enterprise.
Meerlust's wines are overseen by Chris Williams who had studied at the
University of Michel Rolland in France. Luckily, he doesn't seem to
put Rolland's fingerprints on the Meerlust wines and these remain rather
"Old World" in style.
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- Dalla Cia was well-versed in Merlot, as that grape
is a mainstay in Northeastern Italy. He set up a good protocol during
his management of the winery. Williams has built on that
success. Meerlust's Merlot is a terrific wine and they fortify it with
a small percentage of Cabernet Franc. The 2009 vintage is nicely-oaked
and shows a bit of wood spice along with the mildly plummy Merlot.
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- They are most famed for
their Bordeaux-styled blend called "Rubicon", not to be confused with the wine
made in the Napa Valley by Niebaum-Coppola. The 2016, quite a good
bottle of wine, is 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and
3% Petit Verdot.
French oak barrels, 55% new this vintage.
It's an excellent bottle of wine and one worth brown-bagging for your wine
expert friends. If they're good tasters, they'll likely peg it as
Bordeaux or fancy Cabernet.
- Currently available: Meerlust 2016 "Rubicon"
$32.99
Meerlust 2009 Merlot $27.99 (last bottles)

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ENGELBRECHT ELS
Engelbrecht
is a fellow whose family owns Rust-en-Vrede winery and Els would be famous
golfer Ernie Els.
Ernie Els own wine costs so much, you have to earn as much money as, say,
Tiger Woods to be able to buy the wine regularly.
The collaboration between Els and Engelbrecht is a tad less pricey.
The press releases all tout Mr. Els' taste for Bordeaux and Mr.
Engelbrecht's liking of Shiraz. The resulting blend is now made at
their own winery, with the Bordeaux varieties dominating.
We found the 2004 to be quite good. It shows nice dark fruit elements,
with the Cabernet dominating. There's a nice bit of wood here, too, as
we find notes of cedar in the mix. It's medium-full on the palate and
quite drinkable now, though it probably has a number of years of cellaring
potential. Stylish and worthy of comparison to a good Napa
red...
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- This brand no longer exists. Els owns the Ernie Els
brand. Engelbrecht owns or runs the Rust en Vrede winery.
C'est la vie.
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Currently in stock: 2004 ENGELBRECHT ELS Sold Out
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- RUST en VREDE
- The Engelbrecht family runs this historic property, a place in the
Stellenbosch. The winery specializes in red wines and Jannie
Engelbrecht was instrumental in promoting not only his wines, but South
African wine in general.
The estate is quite old, tracing its history back to the year 1694.
Engelbrecht made his name as an all-star rugby player. He was a force
in the sport during the 1960s as he participated in numerous games.
Later he became the leader of the Stellenbosch Rugby Football Club and held
that position until 2004. There were some family issues which caused
all sort of heartaches and these days, Jean Engelbrecht, Jannie's son, runs
the show.
The Engelbrechts took over the estate in 1977 and made their first vintage
in 1978. Kevin Arnold was their winemaker at the outset. In 1998
the winemaker was Louis Strydom. Now at
that job is Coenie Snyman, who's been in that position since 2006.
The winery currently produces about 20,000 cases of wine annually and sends
half of it around the planet.
We've been following these wines for quite a while now and they've routinely
been pretty good. The winery makes only red wines, by the way.
Their "Estate" red wine is the top bottling, a blend of Cabernet,
Shiraz and Merlot. It is matured for a bit less than two years in French oak
barrels. It seems as though they are using a bit less new oak these
days. We currently have the 2015 vintage, which is 57% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 34% Syrah and 9% Merlot.
The Cabernet is a bit earthy and has a smoky quality
which Rust en Vrede fans really like.
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The Syrah is much in the same
style, showing a woodsy note which I find sort of
"burnt." Famous wines, however.
- Currently in stock:
Rust en Vrede 2015 Estate SALE $49.99
RUST EN VREDE 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon SALE $33.99

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- RUSTENBERG
The
Rustenberg estate has history going back to the late 1600s. Wine has
been made there since the 1780s and they've been bottling their own since
1892. Whatever the history, they've been at it a long time.
In the 1940s, the Barlow family bought Rustenberg and a neighboring estate
which was originally part of Rustenberg (the old Schoongezicht estate...I'm
glad they kept the name Rustenberg!).
Simon Barlow runs the property and they make quite a range of
wines.
Most outstanding is their "Peter Barlow" bottling, a special bottling
of Cabernet Sauvignon that's deep, dark and rich. It's been given the
"royal treatment" with respect to oak...something like 70% of the
barrels were brand new. This is showy now and ought to continue to develop
(and soften) over the next ten years.
The 2014 John Merriman is a Bordeaux-styled blend that goes head-to-head
against Napa's top wines. It's predominantly Cabernet and Merlot with a
few drops of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It sees a fair bit
of new French oak and we like the woodsy style of this wine. It's quite
drinkable now and the modest price makes it a wine worth considering when a
steak dinner is on the horizon.
- Currently in stock: 2004 "Peter Barlow" (Cabernet) Sold
Out
2014 "John Merriman" (Bordeaux blend) $29.99
2015 Chardonnay $22.99
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BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF
A
Boekenhout is some sort of tree found in South Africa and its wood is often
used to make furniture, hence the various wooden chairs in the logo of the
Boekenhoutskloof's label.
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The farm has been in the Franschhoek valley
for hundreds of years, but this little winemaking enterprise only got
started in the 1990s. The winemaker (and part-owner) is Marc
Kent. The first vintage amounted to a few thousand bottles...now
they're making well over a million, mostly under the Porcupine Ridge label.
We've found their Syrahs to be noteworthy. The vineyard is in the
Wellington area and the soil is decomposed granite and produces a really
intense Syrah...they pick at various stages of ripeness to help make a more
complete wine. The earlier-picked fruit probably accounts for the
spicy notes and the riper portion is likely the more berryish and bigger
wine...
We have the 2013...nicely violety and dark berries...
There's a wine called "The Chocolate Block" and it's a Syrah-based
blend. It's 69% Syrah (not from the same site as their heavy-hitter
Syrah bottling, though), 13% Grenache, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cinsault
and a drop of Viognier.
It's a big, dark, fruit bomb of a wine...
The
Semillon is a nicely complex wine. First, it's made from seriously old
vines. One block was planted in 1902 and the other in 1942! The
wine starts its fermentation in tank and is quickly transferred to French
oak. It undergoes a malolactic fermentation in barrel, as well and it
stays in a very cold cellar in wood for about a year.
It's got streaks of citrusy tones along with some peachy qualities...nice
and dry with a bit of the 'waxy' character typical of Semillon.
It's quite a rarity!
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Currently in stock: 2015 Syrah SALE
$69.99
2020 Chocolate Block Sale $32.99
- 2011 Semillon $37.99
2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON $44.99
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- MULDERBOSCH
Sauvignon Blanc from this property
seeed
to be on every wine geek's list of "gotta-have" South African wines.
The first vintages we tried, several years ago, were not as impressive as
its press clippings led us to believe.
Some vintages showed improvement and we thought this was quite good, but the
past few bottlings we've tasted have missed the mark and not to our
taste. We preferred the more intensely herbal, citrusy notes of past
vintages. Lately the wine seems to have less focus and less character.
Formerly owned by Larry Jacobs, the property was purchased by Fred
Wypkema of "Hydro Holdings," some big corporate concern. Some were afraid
this would adversely affect the wines at Mulderbosch. However, they'd retained the
services of Mike Dobrovic who had been the winemaker since 1991 or 1992. The
quality of the wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc, was quite good.
The winery was sold in 2011 to Terroir Selections, the Charles Banks wine
company. They owned California brands such as Mayacamas, Qupe and
Sandhi.
Qupe remains a staple in the Terroir portfolio, along with Wind Gap, Agartha
and New Zealand's Trinity Hill. Banks had to sell his ownership
in Mayacamas. Sandhi is owned by its original founders and money
man Steve Webster.
The current winemaker at Mulderbosch is a fellow named Adam Mason. He
has worked for Klein Constantia at one point.
These
days they've been getting good press for their single-vineyard Chenin Blanc
wines...Some local wine writers have been shown these wines as Mulderbosch
seems intent on promoting the wines. We checked the current offerings
at the local distribution company and they don't seem to offer these.
Further, they're a year, or two behind with Mulderbosch Rose and two or
three years behind with Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, suggesting sales
have been a bit sluggish.
Charles Banks, by the way, was sent to US Federal Prison in September of
2017, having been found guilty of defrauding former NBA basketball star, Tim
Duncan.
He is no longer in the wine business according to some sources.
We had seen a spate of glowing reviews for Mulderbosch wines by local
"critics" (bloggers and influencers, mostly). Inspired by
the praise posted by these people, we noticed the distributor for the wines
was still saddled with old, tired vintages.
Oh well.
Stay tuned.
- Currently available:
Need to taste something worthy...stay tuned...
- More
South African Wines By Special Order
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