SPAIN: Table Wines
The table wines from the Rioja region are certainly world
famous and in the cellars of connoisseurs around the world.
We're seeing a dramatic improvement to the wines of Spain and there are still great
bargains to be found here. For many years we've been exploring this delightful area
of the wine universe. You'll find, as a result, we have a substantial stock of
The Lay of The
Land...Backgrounder on Spain
Some Wines and Wineries We Like:
- LA RIOJA ALTA
- Located in
is a very traditional, old-time winery.
The winery owns close to 500 hectares of land has about 360 of their own
"estate" vineyards. At one time they claimed to have produced
about half the fruit needed for their winemaking. When I visited the
winery in 2014, I was told "we grow all our own grapes...we do not buy
But I suspect the fellow who showed me around has not read their web
"We also use fruit supplied by approved growers, all of them
magnificent producers, who provide the quality that we require in our raw
These are "classically-styled" Rioja wines. They're not dark
in color, nor are they fruit bombs. As a result, wine writers who
appreciate traditionally-made Spanish wines find these to be quite good, while
those looking for "extreme" wines such as those produced in
California and Australia routinely have not been impressed.
A representative of the winery told us recently "We no longer send our
wines to certain American publications. Why should we? After all,
they do not understand our wines."
When I visited the cellars in 2014, we were told "We do not send
wines to various publications, but our American importers and distributors
have recently been sending the wines." And, in 2013 The Wine
Spectator re-discovered wines from Rioja. Really? We've been
featuring good Rioja wines for a few decades...hello!
I'm certain the critics in question would argue otherwise, but one of them
once published an article on paella. They could not recommend a Spanish
wine for paella, but they did like some California Zinfandels and Pinot Noirs!
If you like old-fashioned, classic Spanish reds, La Rioja Alta should be viewed as a
really good winery. And they make a nice wine, or two, which can
successfully accompany a good paella.
The new winery in Labastida--the tanks are below, leaving plenty of
room to play shuffle-board or for skateboarding...
very high percentage of the wines here are Reserva or Gran Reserva designations.
They have more than 30,000 barrels in the cellars!
Imagine the work involved in maintaining such a cellar full of
cooperage...constantly topping off barrels to keep them full and in good
Putting a spigot in the barrel-head they can rack the clear wine off
the small bit of sediment which forms in the barrel.
Rioja winemakers typically "rack" or decant the clear wine off
its sediment about every 6 months.
The barrels which have been emptied are then washed, rinsed and dosed
with a small sulfur tablet which is burnt inside the barrel and sealed
with a bung...there's a bung and small wire just behind the candle...those
yellowish little disks are sulfur tablets and they attach one to the wire,
light it on fire with the candle and drop it into the empty barrel.
This keeps the barrel clean and disinfected.
They have a crew of coopers who maintain their barrels and build new
An old photo from the Rioja Alta archive of their cellar many decades ago.
At the original winery they have some nice cellars, if a bit
smaller. Here they keep an eye on their higher-tiered wines.
They have millions of bottles maturing...one of the beautiful features of
traditional Rioja wines is that they are aged in cooperage and then given
bottle aging, a concept lost on many California vintners.
- Let's taste!
long been fans of
their "Viña Alberdi," a Reserva wine with a relatively modest price tag. The
2007 is quite good, showing the lovely woodsy notes we've come to expect in
this wine. It's matured for a year in new American wood before being
racked into older cooperage. We find some nice berry-like fruit, with
fine "woodsy" notes on top. It's a medium-bodied Rioja and one
that's perfectly drinkable right now. It's especially good with grilled
meats, but a paella with seafood and sausages works well, too.
The 2004 Viña Ardanza is delightful and "classically-styled"
Rioja. You'll find plenty of oak and the usual woodsy notes of
patiently matured Spanish red wine. It's very drinkable now, though it
ought to last for five+ years more. Very fine and well-priced.
The 1997 Gran Reserva #904 is a very smooth red. Medium-bodied, this
can be paired with both white or red meats. It's quite good now.
Lots of woodsy, oaky notes. The acidity is crisp, giving the wine
the ability to cleanse the palate when you're bombarding it with
garlic-seasoned grilled lamb chops, por ejemplo. We suggest
opening this and allowing it to blossom in a decanter for an hour or so
Reserva #890 from the 1994 vintage was just being released at the end of
2007. Here's a remarkable, very traditionally-made Rioja wine.
It comes from old vines which yield few grapes. It's approximately 85%
Tempranillo and the rest is Graciano and Mazuelo. Six years of
aging in wood!! Imagine that! Once bottled, the wine was then
stored for another 6 years and it's offered to the market in 2007! The
bouquet is lovely, woodsy, cedary and shows a note of cigar box...It's dry
on the palate, but not "plush" in the fashion of modern-styled
wines. Pair this with a roast or grilled meats. Very special.
- Currently available: 2007 "Viña Alberdi"
Rioja Reserva (List $25) SALE $19.99
1997 Gran Reserva #904 $59.99
2004 Viña Ardanza SALE $29.99
1994 Gran Reserva #890 List $160 SALE
- Borsao comes from a cooperative winery
(actually, it's three wineries!) in the Aragon region of
Spain. They have something like 1500 hectares of vineyards, primarily in Garnacha
vines. The official name of the winery is the Sociedad Cooperativa Agricola Limitado
de Borja, so you can see their name Borsao is certainly much easier to remember.
With a price tag of about six bucks-and-change, it's hard to forget! The wine is made for
immediate consumption, being primarily Garnacha with a bit of Tempranillo. They do a
fermentation in the style of Beaujolais....a whole berry fermentation which minimizes the
tannin and highlights the red fruit notes (raspberry, strawberry, zesty
plums, etc.). This is best served at cool cellar temp and you will
want to drink this in its youth as it's not made with the idea of needing 5
years of bottle aging.
A visitor from Los Angeles was poking around a few years ago, admiring all the
interesting and famous California wines and he saw a little sign on this wine.
"How can this be any good for five bucks?" he asked quizzically.
"Why don't you buy one and find out?" I replied.
He put some money on the counter and departed with a bottle of this.
About four days later he called from L.A. and arranged to have a dozen bottles shipped to
his front door.
The current bottling of Tres Picos is a delight. It's a
sweetly-scented, very berryish red wine with a nice touch of oak. The wood
is fragrant and beautifully integrated, too. It's a medium-bodied wine
with good length. Not a wine for cellaring, it's at its best right now.
- Currently available: 2012 Borsao "Campo de
Borja" (list $9.00) SALE
- 2009 TRES PICOS GARNACHA Sold Out
Also located in Haro,
this family-run producer also has its own cooperage associated with the winery. They
buy wood, season it themselves and there's a cooper on hand to build and repair
barrels. While many wineries in Rioja are using stainless steel for their
fermentation, Muga clings to the past, fermenting in wooden vats! They are using
French and American oak for their wines, having more than 10,000 barrels in their
long-time prestigious bottling of "vino Tinto" is called Prado Enea. This
is predominantly Tempranillo with about 20% split amongst Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo.
Matured for an extended period in oak, the 2000 is just now coming to market!
It is drinkable now and should be in tip-top form for another 5-8 years, maybe
Torre Muga is the "reserve-reserve" bottling. It is a big
time red wine and the 2005 is the current release. It's a three grape
blend, 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazeulo and 10% Graciano. The juice gets a
long period of skin contact and the wine is matured in wood for
approximately two years, 18 months being in brand new barrels. Here's
a thoroughly modern wine made by a fairly traditional winery...You can pair
this with grilled or roasted red meats...drinkable now, it may cellar well
for another 5-10 years...
- Currently available: 2003 Muga "Rioja
Reserva" Sold Out
2005 Torre Muga (list $95) SALE $84.99
Alava and Navarra contribute their first letters to form
"LAN," the name of this enterprising bodega. These are the
three regions intersected by the Rioja region. The winery was
founded in the early 1970s and became the property of a gentleman who made
batteries and plastic tubing. And his engineering prowess is on
display in the LAN cellars.
The winery has been on a mission, after making serious investments in
stainless steel tanks, oak barrels and other winemaking tools. What
it lacked was vineyards and grapes. LAN began its search for better
fruit and they've made great investments to assure top quality
grapes. You see, they're paying above-market prices for grapes and
the quality of the LAN wines has risen handsomely.
The winery owns 72 hectares of estate vineyards and now they have about
another 400 hectares contracted with growers.
Despite the large production, some things are done on a relatively
And other things are done "big."
- They have considerable quantities of bottled wine "aging"
in the cellars.
And of course the cellars are full of small oak barrels.
- They owner of LAN designed and had this gizmo constructed
to facilitate moving barrels around after racking wine, allowing them to
clean the barricas in a more efficient manner.
You'll see these 'train tracks" on the cellar floor and this
machine glides from the barrel stacks to the cleaning stations on the
other side of the cellar.
We were told that a crew from California's Gallo winery paid LAN a
visit, as they are masters of efficiencies. The Gallo crew came
through to have a look and make notes!
- Ironically, when we visited the Gallo winery in Modesto, a
security guard was all over us to say we were not allowed to take any
photos while visiting their winery!!!
They produce a large quantity of wine and we find some of their vintages
to be spot on and price-worthy.
Currently we have a 2010 "Crianza" in the shop. It's made
entirely of Tempranillo and aged about a year in small American oak
barrels. While it's not the most compelling bottle of Rioja we've
run across, it is the best buy in good Rioja...it costs a mere ten bucks,
unheard of these days. Try finding an entry level red in Napa for
$9.99. Buena suerte as they say in Spanish. Even other
producers in Rioja were surprised when I mentioned the value-pricing we
see from LAN here in San Francisco...
The 2010 Crianza is a medium-bodied red. Nice woodsy notes from the
oak and some red fruit elements from the Tempranillo. It's drinkable
now and you can cellar it for a few years.
The 2005 Reserva is a winner...lovely, classic Rioja...80% Tempranillo,
10% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha, the grapes coming from the Rioja Alta
area...older vineyards, too. It's matured for a year in both
French and American oak. We like the woodsy notes on the
nose. And it's smooth enough to enjoy immediately.
Currently in stock: BODEGAS LAN 2010 RIOJA
"Crianza" SALE $9.99
2005 BODEGAS LAN "Reserva" Sold Out
MARQUES DE DAROCA
- This winery is located in an unknown region of northeastern Spain.
Aragon has an area known as Valle del Jiloca and it's between Rioja and
the east coast of Spain.
This firm seems to be on the right track, making wines which have a bit of
soul to them (unlike the schlock you find from California's Central Valley
or the big production "coastal" wines from Beringer or Mondavi,
The 2009 blend of Grenache + Syrah is remarkably good. You will detect the berryish notes of both varieties and a
hint of spice, too. The tannins are not huge, making this drinkable
now. And you can't beat it for good value! They changed
the label to the less "noble" Daroca and dropped the "Marques
de" since maybe nobody there is of noble heritage. Who knows?
Currently in stock: 2009 Grenache/Syrah Sold Out
BODEGAS JUAN GIL
- There has been
a succession of Juan Gils at this winery, which traces its roots back to the
early 1900s in south-eastern Spain. After the first Juan, maybe they
should have named these guys by number, Two Gil, Three Gil, etc.
I think the current owner is Four Gil.
They're located in the Jumilla region, a place where the Monastrell vine is
- We were curious to taste a current vintage from this producer, having read
an article in a French magazine indicating the Juan Gil wine fared very well
in a blind-tasting comparison of Mourvèdre wines, most of which were from
France's Bandol appellation. And you know the French often believe
they have exclusive "rights" to all things of culture, whether
it's wine, food or art, so when you read a French journal praising a Spanish
wine that's a fraction of the price of the Bandols...well...
The 2009 is made entirely of Monastrell and matured for about a year in
small French oak barrels. It's a fairly hefty red wine...robust, but
soft and fairly smooth on the palate. Lots of dark fruit notes, some berries
and vanillin along with a touch of cedar. This is best consumed
in its youth...the acidity is not terribly high, so it's not a candidate for
- Currently in stock: JUAN GIL 2009 Jumilla Red $15.99
Zuazu Gaston runs this relatively new little winery. His family
had founded the co-op winery in their hometown of Oyon and later founded
a second grower's cooperative winery which is today the Marques de
Vitoria and is part of the Faustino group (the Faustino winery is, in
fact, a neighbor)...
- After selling fruit to El Coto, Faustino and Valdemar, Zuazu Gaston
began vinifying its own grapes in 2001. They own some 54 hectares
of vines and rent another 50, producing the equivalent of 5 million
bottles annually. I gather they don't actually make that many
bottles, but that a percentage of their production is sold in bulk, as
Prudencio retains what he feels is his best wine.
The cellars are clean, modern and utilitarian...the winery is not a
museum-like show-place, but an actual winemaking facility.
It's a relatively small company, though...four people work the vineyards
(apart from during the harvest when they have seasonal help) and there
are twelve working in the cellar.
We found a lot of stainless steel fermentation and holding
tanks in the winery.
Prudencio says he prefers these rather wide fermentation tanks as they enhance
the skin contact during the fermentation.
They ferment the various varieties separately...
As with many top cellars in Rioja these days, there's a
special room for "hospitality"...
...they can host tastings, meals or brain-washing sessions in this dining room
with a view to the cellars.
Alberto Anoz, Prudencio's export manager/right hand man...they have a nice
tasting room, by the way.
The 2009 Crianza is a nice bottle and it's
well-priced. Made entirely of Tempranillo, the wine is matured
in both French oak and American barrels. There's a nice red fruit
note along with a mildly cedary tone...less overtly oaky than many
old-school Spanish reds.
It's a good middle-of-the-week red wine where it will certainly
enhance a good home-cooked meal.
Currently in stock: 2009 ZUAZO GASTON Rioja