TOURING IN PIEMONTE

Piemonte is a sort of "home" base for me.  I have many friends and adopted "family" there.  I became an honorary Piemontese back in the 1980s when I invited myself to stay at the home and winery of Alfredo & Luciana Currado at Cantina Vietti.  I spent several weeks of the 1984 harvest attempting to learn the Italian language as well as all the secrets of the winemaking and kitchen.

Since then I've visited many times.  I speak the language moderately well, though I don't wave my hands around nearly as stylishly as the Italians. 

The area has changed over the past few decades.  The winemaking and viticulture have improved tremendously.  The area has become more tourist-friendly, though it's not as over-run with Americans and British as Tuscany, for example.  (This may be good news.)

More outstanding restaurants are to be found in this area, so it's a shame that few Americans know the region as well as the Swiss and Germans who make trek to fill their cars with wine and foodstuffs of Piemonte. 

From Milano, you're about two hours' drive to Alba, the main city in the region where Barolo and Barbaresco wines are made.  There are now many places to stay in Alba, but you might also consider one of the smaller villages in the winemaking towns.  From the U.S., flying in to Torino is easy and usually not significantly more costly.  Renting a car is a snap and driving to Alba takes an hour, or so.

Though summer is "high season" in Tuscany, you may run into trouble finding a place to stay in September and October in this region known as the "Langhe."   That's because this marks the harvest season and there's also a major industry in white truffles. 

With the increase in the price of wine, there's come a major period of prosperity in the region.  Alba's main street, the Via Mestre, used to be filled with more utilitarian shops.  Today it's packed with fancy boutiques with all the famous brands of Italian and French clothing and shoes. Many winemakers, who were lucky to drive a small Fiat, now have a Mercedes parked in the garage.  That's what happens when Barolo goes from a $20 wine to a $50-$100 price level.  (Today many are even more than that!)

If you're interested to experience the "culture," come to Alba on a Saturday morning when the open air market fills the town.  Local farmers fill a covered area at one end of town.  Farm and gardening equipment fills another piazza.  Get there around 9 or 10am, as it starts closing around noon.  While the stores used to close on Saturday at lunch time, these days you can shop til you drop...they're open Saturdays until 7:30.
 

PLACES TO STAY/PLACES TO DINE

Giardino da Felicin
Via Vallada, 18 - 12065 Monforte d'Alba
Tel. (0173) 78225; fax (0173) 787377
http://www.felicin.it
Hotel is closed from the first of January to mid-February.  The restaurant is closed Sunday nights and Monday.

Monforte d'Alba is located at the southern end of the Barolo zone.   There are many notable producers in this area, so staying here at this small hotel can be a good idea.  It is about a 20-30 minute ride to Alba and about a 15 minute ride to the towns of Barolo and La Morra. 
Run by the Rocca family, Nino is the son of founders Giorgio and Rosina.  They have periodically had a star in the Michelin Guide and for good reason!  The food is stellar.  The wine cellar here is exceptional.  They even have a cheese cart, much as is common in France (it's not common in Italy). 
The restaurant is of modest size, seating about 60 guests.  There are but 10 hotel rooms, so advance booking is a good idea.
Papa Giorgio speaks some English and, at times, shockingly so.  I suspect Nino has a decent command of English these days, too.
Friends who've dined there not long ago reported it was so stellar, they went back for an encore performance.

******************************************************************************************

Albergo Ristorante "La Contea"
Piazza Cocito 8 in Neive
Tel. (0173) 67126 677558; fax (0173) 67367
They now have a web site:  http://www.la-contea.it
Closed around the Christmas holidays and from January until March 1st. 
We have known this place for many years.  It's run by Claudia and Tonino Verro and their staff.  The place has been spruced up over the years and today it's quite an enterprise, with modest hotel facilities above the restaurant and bar.   A small enoteca is located across the street.
The kitchen has always featured very traditional cooking.  Claudia did extensive research to collect recipes of old and very traditional Langhe cooking. 
At one time they had been awarded a star in the Michelin Guide.  This was certainly deserved.  However, service and kitchen work can be a bit uneven.  The wine list is impressive and you'll find the best of Piemonte here. 
They now have their own little winery and make their own Barbaresco.  I've tasted a few of their wines of this recently and they are quite good.  The kitchen, when it's on top of its game, is amongst the best.  

Home-made farfalle pasta.

They also run cooking classes, including hands-on experience.  Eight people maximum, so you can get some friends together and book a course.  They will hire an interpreter.

******************************************************************************************

Ristorante Cacciatori-da Cesare
via Umberto I, 12 in Albaretto delle Torre
Tel. 0173/52 01 41   Fax:  0173/52 01 47
Click here for their Web site.
Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays at lunch with their vacation time in January and July.   
Also closed whenever Cesare feels like he needs a day off.

A number of years ago we were tipped off to the dining establishment of Chef Cesare Giaccone.  We were told his was the most inventive interpretation of traditional Piemontese cooking.    We called and booked at table.  "Cesare is cooking fish." we were told.  And he did.  And did he!  But he also had "capretto" (baby goat) roasting in the fireplace and we dined supremely well that night.  
I recall the wines were very inexpensive and the menu was more costly.  It was worth whatever it costs, for this fellow's cuisine (or 'cucina') is so wonderful, it's worth the detour to get here.
And if you're in Piemonte visiting wineries and you have a few bucks in the bank, missing this place is a pity.

The restaurant used to be larger and in a building which had the appearance of dining establishment.  It's downsized and much smaller and you'll think you're coming to someone's home.  There's a tiny sign on the wall facing the street.

Park on the main drag in a parking lot (there was a small fleet of ambulances there on our Sunday afternoon in the Spring of 2008).  We were fortunate to be there on a gorgeous, warm, sunny day and were able to dine outside under a covered area in the "cortile" or courtyard.

A few things to note:  There is no "menu."  You are having whatever Cesare prepares.  And you know those ads on TV urging you to bring your Visa card because "they don't take American Express"?  Well, Cesare doesn't take any credit card, so have a pile of cash in your wallet.  I didn't see the bill, but I understand you're going to drop 75 to 100 Euros per person before the wine.  

I understand the place was, at one point, cited by the Guide Michelin.  But Cesare asked them to NOT include him in their book.  



Cesare was hired by the Fontanafredda winery in  Serralunga to cook and train the staff  at their Villa Contessa Rosa restaurant.
We've heard some locals suggest he will return to his own place once the contract expires...but for the moment, the "L'Angolo di Paradiso" is not open...(December 2009)...




We had an absolutely brilliant lunch.

While we waited for our group to congregate, we sat outside, had a sip of chilled Arneis and were offered a little 'nibble.'

Cesare is famous for his vinegar production and we began with this little 'salad' of pickled vegetables and chicken.

A plate of warm seafood with, I believe, eggplant...Fantastic!

I had seen Cesare working on some asparagus when we arrived...here's what we had:

Asparagus in a "parmigiano cream."

Fritto Misto is quite popular and Cesare's rendition was sensational!

It's served in a nest with, as you can see, fresh flowers, etc.

Mine was not the only camera recording this meal!

Cesare came out to ask if we were enjoying the food and if we'd like to try some risotto...



"Not too much...solo un cucchiaio." (a spoon-full)

The Barolo (from magnum!) was flowing...we were dining with Pietro Ratti of the famous La Morra cellar, Renato Ratti.

One of Cesare's signature offerings is oven-roasted goat.  When we arrived, I had a sneak-peek in the fireplace:

It was accompanied by a plate of fantastically good, simply-prepared artichokes.

It isn't "fancy," but it sure was delicious!

Since, perhaps, everyone isn't a fan of goat, Cesare hedges his bets by sending out a pot of duck stew...

What about dessert?
There we had a couple of choices...many opted for Cesare's Zabaglione.

But it being a rather warm day, I opted for the fresh strawberries with amazingly fine sorbetti...

******************************************************************************************

******************************************************************************************

LOCANDA DEL CENTRO
Piazza del Centro in Castiglione Falletto
Tel: (0173) 462 502
They have several rooms, so if you're looking for a modestly-priced "hotel" and want a simple, comfortable room and bath facilities, this is a good option for you.

Their web site has photos of the rooms and contact info:
CLICK HERE FOR THEIR WEB SITE

Closed Wednesdays and Sunday night.

This is not a fancy place, but it is a delightful place to have good, "home-cooking" at a very reasonable price.  It was recommended by some locals who cautioned "It's not got a huge menu, but they offer good eats for an exceptional price."

It's under new ownership as of Spring 2010.

Here's the menu we were presented at lunch one weekday afternoon in May of 2010.  They have a few tables outside in front of the place...very comfortable for a casual lunch or dinner.

We ordered a bottle of La Ferghettina Brut from Franciacorta...it was 18 Euros on the wine list and delicious with these simply fried Zucchini flowers (6 Euros).

One of our group ordered Vitello Tonnato.  (6 Euros)

I think the Dolcetto from Elio Grasso was about 13 Euros and the Pork Shank was 9 Euros...a nice lunch!

They have a nice wine list...not extensive, but with enough good wines from the local area and a bit beyond...
And the prices are quite reasonable.

The new owners...she waits tables and he's the chef.

******************************************************************************************

******************************************************************************************

RISTORANTE LE TORRI

Piazza Vittorio Veneto,10 in Castiglione Falletto
Tel.(0173) 62930; fax (0173) 462000
Closed Wednesday and at the end of January, as well as August.
Click here for their web site...
This is a fairly new place, located in Castiglione Falletto.  There are some apartments for rent upstairs, so if you're staying at least a week, this is a nice location (aside from the church-bell which rings every hour!).
In May of 2007 I dined here one night with some locals.  
I noticed many more cars parked in the little piazza and the place is, today, more of a destination than it had been.
If the weather is nice, there are some tables outside in the courtyard where you might have an aperitivo before heading inside for your meal.
We had a small Sunday night dinner there...a little pt with a dynamite bottle of Coppo bubbly.  A plate of prosciutto and Parmigiano was terrific...lamb or rabbit for the main plate...take your pick, they were both excellent!

******************************************************************************************

LA LIBERA
Via Pertinace 24/a
Alba
Tel: (0173) 293155
closed February
Closed:  8 to 18 July
Closed:  Sundays and Monday at Lunch
CLICK HERE FOR THEIR WEBSITE

Many people will tell you this is "the" place for a great lunch in Alba.  We've dined here twice and it's been excellent each time, though it's certainly "slow food."  Don't dine here if you're rushed, because trying to get in and out is challenging.

The wine list is quite good and there's a big cooler filled with bottles, so the wines, even on warm days, arrives in delightfully drinkable condition.

They usually have several Freisa wines, too...these are not often sold in export markets and are nice, fresh, fizzy red wines...perfect with starters!

Marco is in the kitchen and Flavia runs the dining rooms and takes care of the wine list.  

The menu features traditional Piemontese dishes.  And you can find great, well-cellared vintages from famous Piemontese estates as well as reasonably-priced, less-famed producers.

They offer a wonderful "tasting" plate of traditional Piemontese antipasti...
A stuffed pepper, carne cruda, Vitello Tonnato and Insalata Russa.


"Plin," or local Agnolotti, are delicious and simply sauced with butter and sage.


A main plate of roasted pork and fried asparagus...

The wine list is extensive....they have numerous vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco wines from famous estates to some less well-known properties.

LUNCH IN THE SPRING OF 2009:



 

We ordered an older bottle of Barolo and Chef Marco decanted and served it...





Donna in Piemonte.

Plin.

They often have Sea Scallops on the menu.

Carne Cruda in Spring of 2010.

We're fans of Crissante's Barolo, always reasonably-priced and well-aged at La Libera.

Tajarin and some freshly grated cheese.

Quail or Piccione?



One of our group ordered an assortment of cheeses...

******************************************************************************************

VINCAFE

Via Vittorio Emanuele, 12
Alba
Tel: 0173 / 364603
This is owned by some friends of ours and it's a dynamite little wine bar along the main shopping area of Alba.
I've not "dined" here, but have had a great coffee and croissant.  

The place is always jumping and, in good weather, a few tables are outside in front.
They have quite a few wines open for "by the glass" service and an array of "tapas" out on the bar.

You can also get a granita or an ice cream, a fresh squeezed orange juice and more!  

*******************************************************************************

RISTORANTE CONTI ROERO
Piazza San Ponzio, 3
Monticello d'Alba  
Tel: (+39) 0173 64115
CLICK HERE FOR THEIR WEB SITE.
The Michelin Guide has this place closed for half of January and half of August, though their web site indicated they were closed for most of the month of March...best to double-check!
They're closed Sunday nights and Monday all day.

We dined at this Michelin-starred place in the Spring of 2008...it was a 'small' group of 30, or so, wine folks.
The service was superb and the food was exceptional.  I was even more amazed to think they had their downstairs dining room open for regular service, along with preparing a meal for our crowd.

An 'amuse bouche.'

Vitello Tonnato.


Asparagus with a creamy morel sauce...

Gnocchi

Seafood pasta...simple but stellar!

Braised pork "cheeks."

Berries and a cup of fruit juice...

I can't tell you much about their wine list, but I suspect they have all the famous wines of the area.

Menu prices were about 10-14 Euros for starters...pastas ranged from 12 to 14 Euros.
Main plates are 20 to 26.  Desserts are 10-12.
A couple of tasting menus are offered, costing 45 or 55.

*******************************************************************************************

ANTINE
Via Torino 16
Barbaresco
Tel: (0173) 635 294
Closed Wednesdays and shortly after Christmas until the end of January.
They also close for a few weeks in August...
CLICK HERE FOR THEIR WEB SITE



Antine is a smallish restaurant right in beautiful "downtown" Barbaresco...as you enter the town, there's one little road which dead ends at Antica Torre and the Minuto winery.  
Just before this is a small parking area along a rock wall and Antine is across from this.

The night we dined here, guests of some Piemontese pals, the front door was locked.  We rang the bell and our hostess/server answered the call, welcoming us to Antine.

The dining area is upstairs and we made our way to a nice table and were served a wonderful meal.

We began with a little 'taste' of a local specialty...an interpretation of Vitello Tonnato.


Antine's version of Carne Cruda, offered as a "Battuta di Vitella Piemontese al coltello."


"Plin."



The main plate was a bit light, but each morsel was delicious and well-prepared.
I don't know if this was prepared especially for our group or if this is a normal serving...

*******************************************************************

LA CANTINETTA

Via Roma, 33  in Barolo
Tel. 0173/56198
Closed Wednesday nights and Thursdays...
Vacation:  Last half of February, first week of March and the first week of July.
Owned by the Chiappetto family, this is a normal little restaurant in the village of Barolo.  It is not regarded as a "fine dining" establishment by some, but having eaten here twice, I can say I'd love to have such a place in our little town here in California!
Our most recent visit was in May of 2007...a warm weekday afternoon.
The food is served with minimal fanfare and it's not terribly fancy in its presentation, but the quality is very high.

A simple assortment of salumi was excellent!

A pt or mousse was served on a bed of sweet & sour onions...again, not fancy but the flavors were exceptional.

One of the guests in our party, a fellow from France, inquired if they could prepare some "carne cruda."  This caught the owner off guard, but moments later he appeared with a wonderful rendition.

Our main plate this particular afternoon was a platter of "tajarin," the famous Langhe tagliatelle.
 

The wine cellar here is good, but bottles are brought to the table a bit warmer than we'd have liked.
They tried to address this by placing a frozen sleeve around the bottle to bring it to proper cellar temperature.

We had a simple sorbetto for dessert...delicious and refreshing!

******************************************************************

OSTERIA LA CANTINELLA
Via Acqua gelata, 4/a
Barolo
Tel: Tel. 0173/56267
Closed Monday evenings (except October, we understand) and Tuesdays.
Vacation closing: January and August
Barolo has two lovely little dining spots with very similar names.  The one listed above it Cantinetta and this place is Cantinella.

We came to this lovely little spot one a Sunday night and called ahead to reserve a table.  The place was fairly busy and it's a comfortable and informal dining experience.  The cooking is simple, "home cooking," rather than anything hugely fancy.


The dining room seats about 35 to 40 and in warm weather, they have an outdoor patio for another 20-25 people.

The wine list was good and features all sorts of prominent, local producers.  We opted for a bottle of Bruno Giacosa Arneis (about 28 Euros, if I recall correctly).

A starter of a "prosciutto" of Agnello Sambucano (lamb!).

They have a terrific recipe for tagliatelle (tajarin in the local Piemontese dialect) using 40 egg yolks per kilo of flour...this makes for an intense and soulful pasta.

My dining companions each ordered a pasta and both were enthusiastic about their selections (and they are locals).

Maltagliati ("badly cut" in Italian)...

I opted for a grilled pork chop...this was good, but not as soulful as the starter or pasta...

"Bunet al cioccolato" is a classic Langhe dessert...and this was delicious.

We paid 120 Euros for dinner for three with each of having a starter, a pasta, main plate and dessert.

***********************************************************************

LA SALITA
Via Marconi, 2a
Monforte d'Alba 
Tel. 0173 787196
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays....Opens at 8pm daily except Sunday when they start at noon.

This is a hidden little gem, frequented predominantly by the locals who know good food and good wines.  It's an "osteria" sort of place...prices on the wine list are exceptionally attractive and the selection is good.

The kitchen, as we found out, is quite capable and the food was wonderfully soulful.

A "salita" is a bit of a steep climb and you'll park in the center of town and walk to the Via Marconi, climbing up the steep incline to this hidden dining spot.

A few nibbles are brought to the table as we sit down and peruse both the menu and wine list...



Here the Carne Cruda is not ground beef, but thinly-sliced strips with some fine olive oil and pepper.

The "Maltagliati" are, actually, finely and uniformly cut...

In the Spring this was served with fresh favas and asparagus...very fine!

The main plate was excellent!  Stewed Rabbit paired with a superb bottle of Barolo from the E. Pira winery.

Dessert.

We were not permitted to leave until we had a sip of Champagne (LaSalle Ros) with the owner of the place.

Very nice and quite economical!

***********************************************************************************************

OSTERIA BAROLANDO
piazza Municipio, 2
tel 0173 - 56218

This is a new place that's opened in 2007, as we understand it.  It's in the old site of Borgo Antico and is a decidedly "good eats" venue.

There's an informal bar on the ground floor where you can get a coffee or a simple plate, while upstairs in the 'fancy' dining room, you'll find a nice, simple menu and a good list of wines at amazingly good prices.

We had a lovely lunch here one Sunday in May of 2007.  A starter of Tagliolini was a mere 7 Euros.  We chose a bottle of Chiara Boschis' delicious 2005 Dolcetto d'Alba at 13.50 Euros!

Our main plate was the Tagliata di Fassone.  
Fassone is a Piemontese breed prized for its tenderness.  The meat is quickly seared and simply presented...quite good, in fact, though it won't ace out a bistecca Fiorentina in my book.

We didn't need dessert and returned to the car to continue our tour of wineries on a sunny Sunday afternoon...

I looked forward to returning to this little 'find"...see below....

 

 

 

 

 

Tagliolini with rabbit (and a nice bottle of Dolcetto).


Fassone (beef) with potatoes and a salad.

We arrived here in the Spring of 2008...late (as usual) and hungry.  The chef graciously agreed to cook for us...and she whipped up some lovely dishes!

Carne Cruda...Piemonte's delicious 'steak tartare.'


Peppers with a bagna cauda 'sauce'.


"Plin," the famous Piemontese agnolotti.

LUNCH IN 2009: 

The new chef...


Carne Cruda


Lingua con Salsa Verde (tongue)


Plin and a good bottle of Dolcetto.

***********************************************************************************************

L'ANTICA TORRE
Via Torino 8 in Barbaresco (end of the road, a few steps from the winery of the Produttori.
Tel: 0173-63.51.70
Closed Thursdays.
This is one of those reliably good places where the food is typical, well-priced and comfortable.  It's a place where you'll most likely run into the locals rather than tourists (though the town is working to encourage greater tourism).

We stopped in for lunch with the Mayor of Barbaresco, "Duccio" Vacca.  
Duccio isn't really the mayor, but he's a great ambassador for Barbaresco.  Years ago he worked as Angelo Gaja's "right hand" man before assuming the reins of the neighboring winery...a grower's cooperative operated by his father in the late 1950s and 1960s...

Duccio ordered the anchovies with green sauce, a typical Piemontese starter.

The restaurant is highly-regarded for its "tajarin," Piemontese for tagliatelle.

My nephew was shocked by this pasta.  It was one of those revelations for him, tasting perfectly made and perfectly cooked pasta.  He had a sauce of burro e salvia (butter and sage), while Aldo and I opted for a tomato sauced tajarin.  Brian inhaled his bowl and then set about "helping" us finish ours.

The owner of Antica Torre shows off a tray full of delectable tajarin with the Produttori's Aldo Vacca and his son.

LUNCH in Spring 2009



Carne Cruda and a good bottle from Cantina del Pino.

Of course, Tajarin here is a "must have."
  

We had a terrific bottle of 1978 Barbaresco from the Produttori del Barbaresco...
The wine was still alive and quite complex...classic.



Since there was still some vino on the table, one of our party ordered a cheese plate...

CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTOS OF CHEF MAURIZIO IN HIS
STANZA DI TAJARIN

******************************************************************************************

TRATTORIA DAI BERCAU

Via Beato Valfrè, 13
Verduno
Tel:  0172.470243
Closed Mondays

Click here for their website

This little place is located in the town of Verduno, a Barolo "outpost" that's home of a wonderful 'local' little red wine called Pelaverga.  
It's run by the two guys depicted on the sign to the left...

Ten Euros will get you a starter, a main plate with a side dish, dessert and water and coffee!  For 27 you get 4 antipasti, 2 first plates, 2 main plates with accompanying side dishes and dessert.  Wine, etc., is extra.  They have a large outdoor area, so if you're hosting a busload of guests, you might find this a nice stop in spring or summer.

We had lunch here with our dear friend Tiziana Settimo (who's wines are ottimo).

The chef was busy...


Antipasti and Pelaverga...the wine, served lightly chilled, is delicious with this sort of food.
We were asked if we had any interest in having some truffles with the pasta...
So, one of the partners ran off...returning a few minutes later with a bag of summer truffles.

It didn't take this little guy long to finish this pasta!

The main plate was rather simple...


Dessert featured a gelato made of sheep's milk...

**************************************

OSTERIA ROSSOBAROLO
VIA ROMA 16
BAROLO
Closed Mondays (and three weeks in January)
Tel:  0173/56133

We had seen this relatively new place on the main drag in Barolo and made a point to check it out on a weekday in May of 2009.  The place has an elegant feel to it, especially when you enter from the street.  There's a modest amount of seating on the ground floor and we were surprised to find a huge dining room downstairs in the 'cellar.'  The day we stopped in there was some sort of formal lunch taking place and we were introduced to the mayor of Barolo who was dining there.

The wine list is nicely done, featuring good producers from the Langhe and these are offered at very friendly prices.  We ordered a nice bottle of Pira Dolcetto and paid all of ten Euros for this.  

We went back in May of 2010...still quite elegant and modestly-priced.

The menu in May of 2010.

Stemware is elegant and of good quality, too.  

We had lunch starting with a nice plate of Prosciutto and one of Carne Cruda.

My friend ordered a serving of Risotto al Barolo.


Tajarin with Asparagus...

The Spring of 2010 version...

Asparagus with Fonduta.

The main plate was a roast or braise of beef with a wine sauce and hazelnuts...

You can enjoy a sip of Barolo Chinato after your meal...they had Cappellano's (the reference point for this).
Tell them Gerald in California suggested the Chinato...

The prices at this place are rather modest, so you can dine and drink well without breaking the bank.
We look forward to a return visit...



********************************************************

RISTORANTE BOVIO
Via Alba 17 bis
LA MORRA
Tel: 0173/590303
Closed Wednesday night and all day Thursday

The Bovio family used to own the famous Belvedere restaurant on the top of the hill in La Morra.  Today they have this lovely little place down the hill, still with an impressive view to the east towards Castiglione Falletto and north towards Alba.

We came here for an organized meal with local winemakers.  It was a set menu and the service was efficient and a bit formal.

We had a perfectly nice meal, but the place lacked a bit of 'soul' or energy.  Everything was nicely prepared and well-presented and the staff took care of service in a quick, fast-paced manner.  

***************************************************************

LA CROTTA
Via Fontana 7
Roddi
Tel: 0173/615187

Closed Tuesdays and 10 days in January and from the 20th of July to August 10th, give or take a day or two.

This place is a short drive south of Alba in the direction of Verduno and la Morra...we came here for lunch one day when planning to visit some cellars in Verduno.

It's a very typical, old-fashioned Piemontese/Langhe restaurant, although they do have a special wine-by-the-glass unit with some interesting wines.

We scoped out the various selections and ordered the Cadia Pelaverga di Verduno...

The Menu Turistico seemed like a bargain at lunch, so we all opted for this...

This was a nice plate of Vitello Tonnato...

For our main bottle of wine we ordered a Rocche Costamagna Barolo "Bricco Francesco."
This was a good example of the 1998 vintage in Barolo...nicely developed and beautifully evolved.


Maltagliati with a sausage sauce.

This isn't ground-breaking cooking...but if you're in the vicinity, it's a nice meal at an affordable price.

****************************************************

VINOTECA CENTRO STORICO
Via Roma 6
Serralunga
TEL: 0173/613203

Closed Mondays

This is a really small, little wine bar just below the castle of Serralunga.  They have a terrific array of wines and always seem to have good bottles of Champagne ready to open along with top wines from the Langhe.

We popped in for lunch one day in  Spring...there are a few tables upstairs near the kitchen and a couple of seats on a deck near the entrance below.  It's quite informal and probably best to call ahead and see if they have a place for you.

 

The menu is quite limited...they have the usual starters such as Carne Cruda, Insalata Russa, Vitello Tonatto and a Rabbit Terrine.
Main plates were even more limited...prices are quite attractive.
It's a small kitchen...

This was quite an ample serving of Carne Cruda...and we had a nice bottle of Champagne to accompany the starters.


Insalata Russa.

Plin...


Sausage...Potatoes...and a good bottle of Gianfranco Alessandria's Barbera.

ON TO THE NEXT PIEMONTESE PAGE

Back to the main Italian Touring Page




Here's a link to a page of restaurants/apartments/inns, etc. in Piemonte:

http://www.visitalia.it/rist/corpo_rist-piem-cn.htm

A small travel agency in Turin organizes tours of Piemontese wine country with participants riding around on a Vespa.
http://www.kalitumbatravel.com/en/pikipiki.htm

Here's a page specific to the town of Barolo, with lodging, winery info and restaurants.
http://www.barolodibarolo.com/index.asp

Our friend, Donna MacDonald, organizes personal eno-gastronomical tours of Piemonte.
She and her photographer husband are from Portland, Oregon and residing near Barbaresco.

Here's a link to her website...
http://www.donnainpiedmont.com/

VECCHIO PODERE SANTA CRISTIANA

Phil & Ingrid Blades have this little agriturismo near Asti...they make wine and are knowledgeable about Piemontese wines and foods...
CLICK HERE TO SEE THEIR WEBSITE