VINO FINO TASTERS TEMPRANILLOS FROM OREGON FEB 2013

Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
Vino Fino founding member Tim Zainer did some terrific
scouting in Southern Oregon, as he was curious to taste Tempranillo wines from
this below-the-radar wine region.
Tim visited numerous producers. tasted dozens of wines and returned with a
prospective line-up for our February 2013 tasting. As a bit of a
benchmark, we included a famous Spanish wine which carried a price-tag similar
to those from the Ribera del Duero region.

The Tempranillo grape may have been in California prior to the Prohibition Era,
but it was not much endorsed by the University of California at Davis as being
especially worthy of planting afterward. The grape was known as Valdepenas
back then, but a vineyard registry from 1891 doesn't seem to list this at all.
In the "bible" of the 1960s, A. J. Winkler mentions Tempranillo in
passing and even mistakenly claims Rioja wines were made of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Grenache, Tempranillo and Mazuelo. In fact, Spain's major red wines from
the Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions are made principally of Tempranillo.
Hilda and Earl Jones, Floridians, knew a bit about the Tempranillo grape, being
fans of Spanish wines. Aware that California's Central Valley, where
Tempranillo had probably been cultivated, was too damned hot to produce wines
rivaling those of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the couple searched high and low
for a prospective site.
Eventually they found Southern Oregon and the Umpqua Valley. In the early
1990s they purchased some Tempranillo cuttings from various nurseries and
embarked on their pioneering efforts which has now encouraged a number of others
to follow in their footsteps.
The Jones family winery is called Abacela which is some sort of Iberian term for
planting grape vines.
Of course, Oregon's Willamette Valley is home to a hotbed of activity with grape
varieties commonly found in France's Burgundy and an Alsace areas. How
would we find these Southern Oregon wines and would they "hold their
own" alongside the famous Pesquera wine of Spain's Alejandro Fernandez?
The tasting shows Tempranillo holds much promise for Southern Oregon vintners,
especially if the grape is accorded proper attention in the vineyard.
Overall, the top wines were of good quality, but some Vino Fino tasters noted
they were unwilling to spend $30 for these wines, especially when some excellent
Rioja can be had for $15-$25.
I didn't taste a single wine I'd have pegged as being reminiscent of
traditionally-styled Rioja, as many of those Spanish wines offer a fair bit of
American oak as part of their aromatic and flavor profiles. These wines
showed more modern stylings.
Our top three ranked wines were virtually tied for first place, separated by a
mere 3 points with 12 tasters participating. Our fourth and firth place
wines were only 7 points out of the top spot. One bottle was corked and
there were two others finishing significantly behind the pack.
Here's what we found:
The Wines |
Gerald's Ranking |
GROUP RANKING |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
ABACELA
2009 Umpqua Valley
Southern Oregon
$21 |
6 |
6 |
60 |
0/0/1 |
KRISELLE CELLARS
2009 Rogue Valley
$34 |
1 |
3 |
44 |
3/1/0 |
PESQUERA
2009
Ribera del Duero - Spain
$33.99 |
3 |
2 |
42 |
2/1/0 |
PLAISANCE RANCH
2010 Southern Oregon
Applegate Valley
$25 |
8
CORKED |
8
CORKED |
86
CORKED |
1/0/10
CORKED |
RED LILY VINEYARDS
2009
Rogue Valley
$35 |
2 |
5 |
48 |
0/5/0 |
SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS
2009
Southern Oregon
$36 |
4 |
1 |
41 |
3/2/0 |
SLAGLE CREEK VINEYARDS
2009
Applegate Valley
$18 |
7 |
4 |
48 |
3/1/0 |
WOOLRIDGE CREEK
2009 Applegate Valley
$36 |
5 |
7 |
63 |
0/1/1 |
8th Place: PLAISANCE RANCH 2010 Southern Oregon-Applegate Valley
TEMPRANILLO
Our bottle was severely plagued by cork taint and was the poster
child for 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole, TCA. Must re-taste.
Still, one taster found this to be the belle of the ball.

7th Place: WOOLRIDGE CREEK 2009 Applegate Valley TEMPRANILLO
Clear in appearance and medium+ ruby in color...first fragrances are of
mocha, coffee and cocoa...the oak, apparently, is more apparent than any
particular fruit notes. It's dry and moderately acidic. Medium
bodied. This is a perfectly nice dry red wine, but I felt it was a bit
"anonymous" in terms of varietal character. It's technically,
though, a well-made wine. I gave it a half star rating on my three star
scale, no stars being an ordinary or standard quality wine.

6th Place: ABACELA 2009 Umpqua Valley TEMPRANILLO
With a clear appearance and medium ruby color, this entry-level bottling
from Abacela had some lightly vegetal aromas which made it less attractive from
the outset.
It's a dry red wine with pleasant acidity, medium to medium-light body and a
moderate level of tannin. It's a simple, decent little red wine, but comes
up short in the charm department. No stars here, thanks.

5th Place: RED LILY 2009 Rogue Valley TEMPRANILLO
Medium ruby in color and clear in appearance, I enjoyed the aroma and
bouquet of this delightful red. I detected some lightly minty fragrances
and good red and black fruit aromas...nicely complex. It's dry and
moderately acidic with medium+ body. The wine is fairly plush in texture
on the palate. It's mildly tannic but has sufficient dark fruit and light
cocoa notes to stand up to the tannins. I felt this could cellar nicely
for 5 to 10 years and I gave it a one star to one-and-a-half star rating.

4th Place: SLAGLE CREEK 2009 Applegate Valley TEMPRANILLO
Clear in appearance and medium-dark ruby in color, the nose at the
outset was of canned spinach or boiled green vegetables. This was quite
unusual and not at all what I was looking for and I immediately dropped this to
just ahead of the corked bottle...I was surprised, though, maybe 30 minutes
later, after I'd come back to have a final sniff and look, the wine was showing
some nicely woodsy notes and a bit of vanillin. I mentioned the vegetal
character to one taster who immediately agreed saying "Wow, that's exactly
what I find now!" as he'd missed this early on. No stars from me.

3rd Place: KRISELLE 2009 Rogue Valley TEMPRANILLO
I was quite delighted with this wine...it's medium-dark ruby in color
and clear in appearance. The aromas are beautifully intense, with lots of
dark fruit notes and some woodsy undertones. Very charming. Dry on
the palate and with good acidity...medium-full bodied. It's
well-structured with ample tannins and plenty of fruit to stand up to the
astringency. There's a nicely woodsy tone on the palate, too. This,
for me, was the most profound and intense wine of the set. Two
stars. Bravo.

2nd Place: PESQUERA 2009 Ribera del Duero
Clear in appearance and medium ruby in color, this wine offered nicely
woodsy fragrances on the nose with ample dark fruit aromas. It's dry and
moderately acidic. Medium-bodied and well-balanced. Its flavors show
red and dark fruits with light oak. It's mildly tannic and quite
good. One star+.
I felt the wines of Kriselle and Red Lily both matched the famous Pesquera.

1st Place: SCHMIDT FAMILY VINEYARDS 2009 Southern Oregon TEMPRANILLO
This wine finished ahead of the pack by a whisker. It was medium-
ruby in color and clear in appearance. I found the wine to show nice red
berry notes on the nose. Dry and nicely acidic, this is a shade lighter
than my other top-tier wines. It resembled the structure of a nice Pinot
Noir and as it was a bit lighter and perhaps a bit more delicate, I dropped it
below my other favorites.
One star.

Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
BUT WE DO POST THE RESULTS OF A PRIVATE TASTING GROUP THAT'S BEEN MEETING FOR
MORE THAN 47 YEARS!
We are working on
organizing some blind-tastings at the shop.
Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
These would be on Wednesday evenings and you'd need to bring 8 wine glasses.
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A
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TASTING & DINNER December 2005
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THE WORLD November 2005
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ZAINER'S SIDEWAYS LOOK AT MERLOTS August 2005
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SYRAHS March 2005
2002
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FINO HOLIDAY WINE MARATHON December 2004
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TEMPRANILLO October 2004
2002
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SHIRAZ-CABERNET BLENDS August 2004
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FROM ALSACE July 2004
2001
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WINES FROM CAMPANIA & BASILICATA May 2004
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WINES FROM THE ABRUZZO & MARCHE REGIONS April 2004
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2001
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THE BEATEN PATH SYRAHS APRIL 16, 2003
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& SPARKLERS July 17, 2002
Interesting
Paired CHARDONNAYS
May 15, 2002
2001
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SEASON BACCHANALIA
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1998
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1999
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1997
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Mostly
1998 NEBBIOLO June 20, 2001
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16, 2001
1996
SAINT-MILION Tasting April 18, 2001
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CHARDONNAYS March 21, 2001
1984-1985
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1997
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1998 CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAYS August 16, 2000
WINES
FROM THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE: CLARETS June 21, 2000
WINES
FROM UNDER THE TUSCAN (and Umbrian) SUN Aprile 19, 2000
1997 BORDEAUX: MEDOC May 17,
2000
WEIMAX TASTING ARCHIVE
NAPA
CABERNETS 2004 Vintage March 19, 2008
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PINOT NOIRS-2005s March 13, 2008
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PINOT NOIRS February 6, 2008
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2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
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STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
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2001
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2001
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2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999

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