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WHITE BURGUNDY

Burgundy is divided into a number of sub-regions and these are important in sorting out this jigsaw puzzle of a viticultural area.

White Burgundies are, typically, Chardonnay wines. There are a few exceptions:
"Aligoté" is a rather simple and acidic dry white, making its most noteworthy wine in the area of Bouzeron.

"Sacy" is responsible for some wines designated "Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire" which come from the Yonne (Chablis) region.
"Sauvignon" (blanc) makes some very nice little wines in the Chablis sub-region of "St-Bris-le-Vineux" and we've, periodically, had some of this steely, dry white here in the shop.

I have seen references to Pinot Blanc and Pinot Chardonnay with respect to Burgundy. There is even a supposedly "mutant" clone of Pinot Noir, said to be first isolated at the domaine of Henri Gouges in Nuits-Saint-Georges.

So, for the most part we're dealing with CHARDONNAY.

Now, you need to know the sub-regions here:

"Chablis," located about 60 miles northwest of the heart of Burgundy. There is a wine known as "Petite Chablis" from small pockets of vineyards scattered around the region. This is usually really simple, acidic, bone dry and very light. "Chablis" can be magnificent wine. The most prestigious are of Grand Cru status and encompass seven "crus": Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir. These can be the most interesting and long-lived wines, going ten or more years. The most common Premier crus include: Beauroy, Fourchaume, Montee de Tonnerre, Montmains and Vaillons.  These often take three to five years to blossom.
Click here for a page with Chablis photos and maps...

"Côte d'Or,"  the heart of Burgundy and where the most prestigious wines come from is divided into two sub-regions: the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. It is from the latter area that the most well-known white Burgundies come from. Here you'll find Corton Charlemagne, Meursault, Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin.
  


"Do you know the way to Montrachet?"

"Cote Chalonnaise" makes some good, lighter-weight Chardonnays. These might be found with the appellations of Givry, Mercurey, Rully or Montagny.

"Macon" is the most southerly region of Burgundy and it's most famous wine is Pouilly-Fuissé. There are a number of producers attempting to make oakier, richer white wines here, but, frankly, the wines sold by the large negociant firms are expensive and, to our taste, rather soulless and empty.   Happily some small estates have figured out how to make more interesting and complex wines.  A few of these rival good California Chardonnays and offer an alternative to good Cote de Beaune whites.  Few, though, reach the level of quality of fine Premier Cru or Grand Cru white Burgundy.  On the other hand, the area is loaded with producers of good, simple, straight-forward, non-oaked Chardonnays and these, costing around twelve bucks, can be pretty satisfying.


White Burgundy Producers We Like:

 


DOMAINE PINSON
The 7th generation of Pinsons is running this family estate right near the 'wash-a-teria' in beautiful downtown Chablis.
 


No kidding...the winery is right along the little creek that flows through town and there's an ancient community clothes-washing place right there in case you're visiting and feel a need to beat the hell out of your laundry.  I didn't notice an automated laundromat in town, by the way.

The Pinson family traces its roots back to the year 1640.  We think their Chablis wines are better than ever, but then we weren't around to assess the wines made in the 1640s.   

The winery was one of the first to bottle its own wines.  They hadn't thought of this in the 1600s and it took them until 1940 to come up with the notion of vinifying wine and selling it in glass containers which customers could transport home.  The property encompassed some 3 hectares back then.  By the 1982 vintage the domaine comprised all of five hectares.  

Laurent and Christophe run the estate today and they care for a whopping 12 hectares of vines.  In 2004 they built a new, modern cellar.  We found a nice installation of temperature-controlled stainless steel fermentation tanks.  This allows them to really capture the fruit and minerality of the various parcels of vines.  

Laurent explained they like to incorporate a small percentage of wood-fermented wine into most lots.  Even the basic Chablis has a small amount of barrel-fermented juice, though the wood is rather neutral.  Laurent explains they like the complexity this adds to the wine.  


Yields are much less today than in their father's day.  The grand cru vines produce about 35 hectoliters per hectare, while the premier cru vines turn out 45 to 48 hectoliters/hectare.  Quality seems to be the name of the game here and we tasted some very fine bottles on our visit.

We have their 2006 basic Chablis in stock.  Here's a lovely example of Chablis at a most affordable price.  I seem to recall that 80% of the wine is from one vineyard in particular.  Only 7% of the wine sees wood, as they strive to retain the character of "Chablis" in the wine.  Moderately stony and quite dry, it's a perfect accompaniment to simple, pan-fried fish filets, a platter of oysters, etc.

Their 1er Cru La Forêt is magnificent Chablis.  It comes from vines which are 40+ years of age.  Nice fruit and a whiff of wood.  Complete.  Delicious now and it'll be good for a number of years.

The Grand Cru of Les Clos reaches great heights in this cellar.  Very fine and deep.  It is delicious in its youth and one can see if will continue to develop handsomely for a number of years.

By the way, I understand the Pinson wines cost more than the famous Chablis wines from the Raveneau family at the cellar door.
The Raveneau wines, though, due to their fame and demand, end up commanding insanely higher prices when they reach the consumer.
We are fortunate to have access to the Pinson wines through a reliably good and honest importer here in the area.


Currently in stock:  2006 PINSON "CHABLIS"  $19.99
2005 PINSON CHABLIS 1er Cru "La Forêt"  (list $35)  SALE $29.99
2005 PINSON CHABLIS Grand Cru "Les Clos"  $57.99


Chablis Meister, Laurent Pinson


Mr. and Mrs. Pinson

 

 

 

 

DOMAINE Des COMTES LAFON
It's not fair to "tease" you with a huge write-up of a domaine whose wines are so highly regarded and so scarce that we can't offer you but a bottle from time to time.  

I had the good fortune to visit this small domaine in Meursault in March of 2002.  The property covers some 13.9 hectares, 8 of which are devoted to Chardonnay.  This is one of those domaines run by a perfectionist.  Dominique Lafon took over for his father René some years ago.  "Dad" was a highly regarded wine-grower and Dominique has the same reputation.



It was really great to taste these wines out of barrel (sorry if I'm torturing you), because when I've tasted the wines fresh-off-the-boat I've wondered what all the fuss is about.  Tasting them out of barrel (we tasted very fine 2000s and still-developing and hard-to-assess 2001s), I found the elements about which I've read.  These are deep and profound wines which are refined and elegant.  Dominique Lafon's right hand man, Stéphane Thibodaux told us that the wines are really nice after five or six years in the bottle.  But he said their 1992s, at ten years of age, are still "closed" unless you decant them and let them "breathe" for about an hour!

Ellen visited the estate in February of 2005 and described the wines she tasted as "magical."






Lafon purchased a property in Macon, so we are now able to have a taste of how a Meursault-Maniac handles Macon.  The first vintages have been rather promising, so this will be a project whose progress we will follow with great interest.  (How many Macon producers make great Montrachet?  Only Lafon!)





Macon Milly-Lamartine.  Good wines, though I didn't mistake them for Lafon's Meursault Clos de la Barre.  I am curious to see how these develop with cellaring.  Time will tell.

Post-script: I recently had a chance to taste some "older" bottles of Lafon's Macon wines.  Wow...what a difference with a year or two of bottle aging!  These are remarkably good wines but you can't really evaluate them when they're just-bottled and first-released.  These showed nice depth and hints of ripe apple, honey and toast (but not oaky).  The texture on the palate was much broader, too.





Montrachet, of which there is precious little!  Lafon has one-third of a hectare of vines in this appellation.  In 2000 they made six barrels.  We are fortunate to be on the allocation list for this rarity.  Delicious and expensive.


  Currently in stock:
  2003 Macon Milly-LaMartine $22.99
 2002 Macon Bussières $22.99
 2001 Macon "Clos du Four" $19.99
  2001 Meursault $79.99
  2002 Meursault $89.99
  2003 Macon Uchizy $28.99
2003 Macon Clos de la Crochette $28.99
2003 Macon Villages $22.99







DOMAINE LEFLAIVE

The Leflaive name has long been highly-regarded with respect to the wines from Puligny-Montrachet.  Having been privileged to taste these wines over the years, I can say it is in the past decade that the wines have really become a reference point for the appellation and for white Burgundy in general.

Part of the rise in quality may be attributed, perhaps, to the conversion of their vineyards to biodynamic farming practices.  Another contributing factor is due to a modest change in management back in 1990 when Anne-Claude Leflaive took over running the domaine.  Her cousin Olivier runs his own business, the Olivier Leflaive negociant company.

The winemaker is Pierre Morey, whose name appears on his own brand of wines, both home-grown and negociant bottlings.  

The winemaking is straightforward, adding credibility to the notion that "wine is made in the vineyard."  

Leflaive has segmented its vineyard holdings into numerous "blocks" and harvests according to the maturity of the fruit. 


The Leflaive holdings are outside the village of Puligny-Montrachet in various colors.

Once the grapes have come into the cellar, the fruit is pressed and the juice is allowed to settle in stainless steel tanks.  I have heard some winemakers argue against this, claiming it robs the wines of a dimension of character, while other winemakers assert this allows for a "cleaner" fermentation.  You can't argue with the results from Leflaive, however.

The juice is then racked into small French oak barrels and the fermentation is initiated.  They're big fans of stirring the sediment following the fermentation.  The French call this battonage and you can't miss it in the Leflaive wines as they show a really intensely smoky, "leesy" character which is their signature.

Some people may describe the wines of Leflaive as oaky or the product of really toasted oak barrels.   But this isn't the case.  The wines are smoky from their maturation on the spent yeast.  

I've been a fan of the Clavoillon wines, a cru which is just north of Les Pucelles and east of Folatières.  Leflaive owns nearly the entire site, holding 4.79 hectares of the 5.59.  

We have two vintages of this in the shop presently.  

The 2004 Clavoillon is young and delicious, but probably won't really shine for another couple of years.  You can see the wine has some outstanding qualities, however.  We're big fans of this steely dry, smoky, minerally white Burgundy.

The 2005 Clavoillon is a real youngster...it's tight and a bit backwards presently (October 2007)...this will take a few years to blossom, but the wait will be worthwhile.

Currently in stock:  2004 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon" $99.99 (last bottle)
2005 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet "Clavoillon" $119.99
2004 Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet  $359.99







DOMAINE FAIVELEY

The Faiveley name is not one most Burgundy fans associate with white wine, but the domain is making a conscious effort to produce some serious wines.

I've not been much of a fan of the Faiveley wines, so it was a bit of a shock to find a stellar bottling from their holdings in the Chalonnaise region, south of the Côte de Beaune.

Their reds are usually a bit severe and tannic and most of the whites have been a bit light and not especially interesting.

It seems, though, they're working diligently to improve their wines and we tasted a remarkably good bottling from a small vineyard in the Mercurey appellation.  It's a 4 hectare parcel named for its rocky, pebbly terrain and it's called "Clos Rochette."

The 2005 vintage is marvelous smoky and leesy.  Bone dry, of course, with a wonderful toasty element on the nose and palate.

Young Erwan Faiveley, the new kid in town, told us they've recently purchased a domaine in Puligny-Montrachet and he's excited to be able to produce grand cru White Burgundy.  If the kid can make Mercurey this good, we look forward to tasting his Bâtard-Montrachet!

Currently in stock:  2005 FAIVELEY "Mercurey" Clos Rochette  $28.99

 
 

  

 

PIERRE MOREY

Monsieur Morey (there are a lot of Monsieur Morey's in Burgundy!) used to rent vineyards from the Comtes Lafon property, but these have reverted back to Lafon, the lease having run out.  Today he owns  about eight hectares of vineyards and produces about 48,000 bottles of wine annually.  

Morey has been the régisseur for the famed white Burgundy producer, Domaine Leflaive.  Like Leflaive, Morey prefers to tend to the vines using "old fashioned," methode biologique cultivation techniques.  

The juice is pressed from the Chardonnay grapes and fermented in oak, Morey using about 25% new barrels for each wine.  He stirs the "lees" or yeast sediment regularly for a few months and then leaves the wine on the lees for another year before racking.  As a result, you'll find his wines to be somewhat toasty and decidedly smoky. 

A French publication characterized his wines as having the "finesse of Coche-Dury with the richness on the palate of Lafon."  High praise, indeed! 

We tasted a 1999 Meursault "Les Tessons" which we thought was superb.  It's really toasty like a Coche-Dury wine with lots of smoky notes.  Bone dry.  Long and toasty on the finish.  Very fine.  Drinkable now, yet I'll bet this can go another 5-10 years.

Currently in stock:  1999 MEURSAULT "Les Tessons"  $49.99

 



DOMAINE LABET

The Labet family is co-owner of the famous Clos Vougeot estate of the Château de la Tour.   In addition to making a majestic red wine, there are some wines appearing under the Domaine Labet banner.

We tasted a wonderful example of "Beaune" from the Clos du Dessus Des Marconnets site.  The wine displays nice, smoky, toasty, leesy notes.  It's dry and medium-bodied on the palate with oak being in the background.   We understand the vineyards are organically-farmed, by the way.
 
 
 

Currently in stock:  2004 DOMAINE LABET BEAUNE "Clos du Dessus Marconnets"  $34.99





JEAN PAUL DROIN
I'd bet probably not many winedrinkers know this fellow or his wines, yet he's regarded as one of the very top producers of Chablis. With a range of vines, this 20-hectare domaine covers Petit Chablis up to Grand Crus. Though barrel-fermented, the wines are not especially oaky, Droin managing to highlight the fruit and minerally notes. 

We've often been fans of their "Tete de Cuvée," a wine carrying the basic "Chablis" appellation but it's a good deal better than most other "simple" Chablis wines.
The 2004 is a recent arrival and we bought a bottle from the importer to see if it was to our taste.  As usual, it was!  There's a bright apple tone to the fruit and a whiff of lemon zest and stony, minerally notes on the nose.  The wine is bone dry on the palate.  One of our wine industry pals found it too tart and austere for her California palate.  C'est la vie.  Paired with seafood, this wine really sings!  I suspect most customers probably buy it and drink it right away, though we've seen these can age quite handsomely for 5+ years.  Maybe more.

The local distributor for Droin's wines does not currently have any of their premier cru or grand cru bottlings.  Stay tuned, as we keep our eyes opened for those.

Currently available: 2004 Chablis "Tete de Cuvée" $21.99




BENOIT DROIN POURS WINE IN THE FAMILY CELLAR.

 








MANCIAT-PONCET



Claude Manciat and his wife Simone Poncet have been growing grapes for decades, but they only began bottling their own wines in 1979.





They have about 4.5 hectares of vineyards in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation and another five in Macon. While most of the vineyards in Macon are machine-harvested, Manciat-Poncet vineyards are still picked by hand.   

Though they both qualify for the senior citizen's discount at the local cinema, both Claude and Simone are vivacious and still enthusiastic about their work. 

We tasted a variety of tank and barrel samples on our visit a few years ago.  Claude buys oak, for example, from several different coopers and the wines aged in each has a slightly different "seasoning" as a result.  To complicate matters, slightly, Manciat-Poncet works with one importer whose preference is for lavishly-oaked wines and another whose preference is more for wines which have no oak or merely a hint of wood.  The importer we purchase from prefers the wines which taste more of the grape than of the lumber.












The Pouilly-Fuissé we have is the "Les Crays" bottling, a wine which shows just a bit of wood.  One part of the wine is exposed to a percentage of new barrels, while most is matured in seasoned, more neutral oak.  Large negociant firms such as Louis Jadot bottle a small lake's worth of Pouilly-Fuissé which is rather bland, simple white wine of little character.  (And I'm being polite.)

Manciat-Poncet's wine actually has quite a bit of Chardonnay character and a hint of wood.  

 
 
Their Macon-Charnay (Charnay is a village whose wines can be sold either as Macon-Villages or Macon-Charnay) is a delicious, light, uncomplicated white wine.  It still has character, though, even though wood is not part of the equation.  The 2006 comes from a good vintage and the fruit in this wine is reminiscent of the fragrance we get from a bucket of fresh-picked apples from our friend's place in Woodside.  Delightful! It's an uncomplicated, yet delicious, wine.  



 
 
They make a bit of Pinot Noir and Gamay.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



Simone organized a lovely lunch for us.  


Crudités and Macon-Charnay.
This is a lovely combination!


Asparagus, Haricots Verts and Jerusalem Artichokes along with
some Pike Quenelles made for one nice lunch!

CURRENTLY IN STOCK:  2005 POUILLY-FUISSÉ SALE $24.99
2006 MACON-CHARNAY  $13.99


 
DOMINIQUE CORNIN (DOMAINE DE LALANDE)
Chaintré is a village located within the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé and this is where you'll find the Domaine de Lalande, owned by Dominique Cornin.

Cornin has about 20 acres of vineyards scattered over several appellations.  His wines have been on our radar screen for a number of years as we like the fresh apple character he captures in his various Chardonnay wines.

The fellow is a proponent of organic farming, which we applaud.  But we do not buy his wines because he's a skilled viticulturist.  We buy them because they have "soul".  

Beaujolais Blanc has been a frequent favorite.  This comes from vineyards south of the winery in neighboring Beaujolais.  It is routinely a superior wine to many Macon or Macon-Villages wines.  It routinely catches some customers by surprise as few people associate Beaujolais with white wine.

Absolutely fabulous is Cornin's 2004 Pouilly-Fuissé from the Clos Reyssié.  It is rare to find a wine of this appellation that actually has this much personality.  Wine geeks such as myself have virtually no interest in Pouilly-Fuissé, looking down our long, pointy noses at the plonk most folks buy bearing this appellation.  I have to admit that there has been a nice upgrade to the quality of many Macon wines over the past few years, thankfully.  
Cornin's wine, though, is sort of white Burgundy you could put in front of most wine aficionados and they'd never in a million years guess it correctly as Pouilly-Fuissé.  That's because these sort of wines tend to lack pizzazz and style.  This wine is very deep in terms of apple and pear-like fruit and there's a touch of wood here.  Cornin matures the wine in once-used barrels so there's not a strong influence of oak, but there is some wood to be found.  Fantastically good! 
 
Currently in stock:  2004 Beaujolais Blanc $11.99
2004 Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos Reyssie" $23.99






LAMBLIN
This family traces its history in Chablis back to the year 1690.  Three hundred and fifteen years later, we finally bought some wine from them.  I'm sure they're hoisting a glass of bubbly to celebrate.

We've tasted various vintages of the Lamblin's simple "Bourgogne Blanc" and typically found the wine to be well-made, crisp, nodding in the direction of Chablis.   The 2005 and 2006 were quite good and now the 2007 vintage is here...quite nice!  And it's selling for but eleven bucks!  There's a touch of the minerally, appley notes we like in good Chablis, but the wine shows more character than we've found in previous years.  It tastes like it comes from Chablis or near Chablis and is a good example of non-oaked Chardonnay.  

We like this paired with steamed clams, pâté, cold chicken and other light fare.  The Lamblin's suggest serving this with cream-sauced fish.   Your mileage may vary.

Currently in stock:  2007 LAMBLIN "Bourgogne - Chardonnay"  SALE $10.99
 





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