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DOMAINE MATHA
If I tell you this is made due east of the Cahors region, you might have a
slight clue as to where in the world I'm talking about.
If I add it's a tad north of
the region of Gaillac (and Toulouse), that might help. Slightly.
The
appellation is "Marcillac" and it covers a mere 140 hectares of vines. The
area used to be more thickly carpeted with vines, having 28 times the area in vineyards (a
hundred years ago) as it does today!
We have a lovely wine of this appellation, made by a guy who is a real character!
He was studying for the priesthood when he said, "Oh God! No!!!"

Brother Jean-Luc
I understand Jean-Luc Matha also learned how to be a clown (there are many of us
practicing this 'art' who are, coincidentally, in the wine business). Now he's a
famous, leading producer of a French wine even most French haven't heard of.
The grape variety in this region is Mansois.
You might know this variety under another name, that of "Fer Servadou."
I'd be surprised if you did!
Matha makes two wines of Mansois. We have a delicious offering which
is bright, raspberryish and with a hint of a spicy, peppery note. The locals
describe it as red pepper, not black.

Matha has been a leader in reducing yields in an effort to obtain more fragrance and
flavor. He also de-stems the grapes, wanting to avoid bitter tannins. The
2006 vintage, though youthful, is delicious now. It may be the best
we've tasted from Jean-Luc. We like this served at cool cellar temperature and it pairs well with
grilled sausages enhanced by a fiery mustard (I like the French "Amora"
brand or Colman's English...both are nuclear mustards!).

Mrs. and Mr. Jean-Luc Matha...
- Currently in stock: 2006 Jean-Luc Matha Marcillac $11.99
- CLOS LA COUTALE
The
wines of the Cahors region should be better known. Given that so many
people buy Malbec wines from Argentina, it's probably a good idea to know
the wines from what is the "reference point."
Such is the competition in the wine market, the vignerons of Cahors demanded
the law change to allow them to identify the wines on the label as
"Malbec." You may know the wines of Cahors are made of
Malbec predominantly, but the average wine-drinker is unaware of the
association between the Cahors appellation and the Malbec grape.
Clos La Coutale is a 45 hectare estate just a few miles west of the town of
Cahors. Owned by Valmy Bernède & his son Philippe, their vines
average about 25 years of age. The vineyard is comprised of about 70%
Malbec, with the balance split between Merlot and Tannat.
Their 2004 Cahors is a nice expression of Malbec. The wine is
medium-bodied, but not especially tannic or harsh. Although
there are Cahors wines which are lavishly oaked to the point you can't
distinguish what sort of wine you're drinking, this isn't one of them!
You'll find some dark fruit notes on the nose and palate. The wine is
smooth enough to pair with a savory chicken dish, but big enough to stand up
to lamb, duck or beef dishes, too.
Currently in stock: 2004 CLOS LA COUTALE CAHORS $12.99
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BUNAN'S "MOULIN DES COSTES" 2003 BANDOL Rouge $26.99
(750ml)
The Bunan family has been making wine in the Bandol region of
Provence since the early 1960s. They have about 85 hectares of vines, producing the
Chateau La Rouvière and Moulin des Costes. La Rouvière is built to last.
The
Moulin des Costes, our selection, is a rather graceful and elegant rendition of Bandol (if
one can call Bandol "elegant."). The Bunan's attribute the success of this
wine to its lack of Cinsault. The wine is 70% Mourvèdre and 30% Grenache.
Their La Rouvière wine is made entirely of Mourvèdre, accounting for its hardness.
The 99 Moulin des Costes is drinkable now, with some of the typically
"meaty" notes from the Mourvèdre. Pair this with Mediterranean cuisine
and don't skimp on the garlic!
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DOMAINES OTT, etc.
The Ott name
originates in Alsace, but today it is one of the most famed in
Provence. Marcel Ott's little foray to sunnier climes in the south of
France have been bearing fruit for several generations.
We have carried their wines for a number of years as they are rather a
benchmark for this region. Tourists immediately identify the wines
which come in distinctive bottles, as they have consumed these during their
memorable vacation to France.
The reason the firm is "Domaines Ott" is that there are several
properties, not merely one.
From the Château de Selle we have what many people feel is the leading
rosé in France, the famed Coeur de Grain. This is a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsault. It is even matured in wood, though
you will be hard-pressed to find a note of oak in the wine. I have
tasted it numerous times and can tell you it never made "sense" to
me paying so much for a rosé until Bob served it with his magnificent Bouillabaisse.
It suddenly took on much more depth and character. I can only imagine
what this must taste like on its home turf! (No wonder people will pay
serious money for this wine!)
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- Château Romassan is their Bandol estate. The 2001 vintage is
currently available, a medium-full bodied red with some meaty notes on the
nose and palate. It shows best when partnered with lamb or duck.
Mourvèdre, of course, is the main grape.
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- Currently in stock: Ott 2006 (Château de Selle) Rosé $32.99
Ott 2001 (Château Romassan) Bandol $46.99
MAS GRAND PLAGNIOL
The Mas
des Bressandes estate sells its wines through a particular national US
importer...we buy their wines under another label, Mas Grand Plagniol.
The estate is owned by the Marès family. Cyril runs the place, taking
over for his father a few years ago. He married the gal next door at
Mas Carlot (see above).
We've been fans of the white wine of this estate, liking very much the
"Tradition" wine. While Marès' wife's wine is Marsanne and
Roussanne, this wine is 40% Roussanne and 60% Grenache Blanc. It's dry, of
course, with modestly zippy acidity and lovely fresh peach and pear-like
fruits. The 2005 is fresh and bright...very nice and still good
value.
- Currently in stock: 2005 Mas Grand Plagniol White Sold Out
DOMAINE DE TOUR DE BON
This
modest estate is making some very good Bandol wines.
The 2004 is terrific, a wonderful expression of the appellation and of the Mourvèdre
grape. This vintage is 55% Mourvèdre, 35% Grenache and 10%
Cinsault.
Their vines are rather low-yielding and the resulting wine has a level of
concentration you might not expect for a rather reasonable price.
The wine is bottled without fining or filtering, so if you cellar some
bottles of the 2004 (and this is a vintage which will handsomely repay a few
additional years in bottle), expect to decant the wine.
If you're having a rosemary & garlic-seasoned leg of lamb, this will be
a wonderful accompaniment.
Currently in stock: 2004 BANDOL ROUGE $23.99
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