We carry about 8-12 different wines from Switzerland, a
wonderful country with an economy which is amazing. We used to go cross-country
skiing in the Engadiner Valley and I can say that the price of everything is high. A
few years ago a dozen eggs cost something like $9.00 !!!
Swiss wines are equally pricey. I recently tasted a flight of
extraordinarily expensive Merlots from Ticino. I'd consider buying these
wines were they to cost about $15-$20 a bottle. Unfortunately, these wines
were in the $30-$65 range for no other reason than they are produced in small
quantity.
I was amused when the Wine Spectator did a cover story on Swiss wines, since these are not
much in demand in the U.S. marketplace. While publisher Marvin Shanken has succeeded
brilliantly with bringing cigars back into style for a brief period, I'm afraid he didn't have the same
effect on the sales of Swiss wines.
Most people are simply preparing a Raclette or Swiss Fondue
and are looking for something in keeping with the theme of the evening.
There's a quotation from Eunice Fried on Swiss wines which we appreciate: These wines attract the kind of consumer who loves to explore the next frontier before others know there is one
THE REGIONS
French-Speaking Areas:
THE VALAIS
The center of this region is the town of Sion, which is a
name you might encounter on a wine label. The primary white grape is called
"Fendant" (known as Chasselas in other parts of the world) and its wine is dry,
a bit low in acidity and doesn't have particularly distinctive aromas or flavors (some
endorsement, huh?). Sylvaner is also grown in this region, but it's known as
"Johannisberger," despite the presence (in tiny quantities) of Riesling.
Marsanne is cultivated here and is called "Ermitage," while Pinot Gris is
disguised as "Malvoisie." Other grape varieties to be found include
Amigne, Arvine, Humagne and Paen (some relative of Traminer, apparently).
In red wines, Pinot Noir is the predominant variety, with Gamay also
being cultivated here. Typically wines labeled Dole are 2/3s Pinot Noir and 1/3
Gamay. As these tend to be heavily chaptalized (sugar added to the unfermented
juice to make up for the natural lack thereof), the wines are usually a bit on the thin
side. Some have now planted Chardonnay here and there's even a vine of Syrah.
There are about 22,000 grape growers in this region, tending but 5,200 hectares of
vines. Only 700 produce and bottle any wine commercially, so the bulk of the
production is handled by cooperatives or negociants.
THE VAUD
This region includes the vines on the north shores of lake
Geneva and the Rhône Valley. Chasselas is grown here (of course). It is in
the Vaud where you'll find the prestigious white wine called Dezaley where Chasselas is
said to be at its best. I wouldn't stand in a very long line for a glass, however.
Pinot Noir and Gamay are also found in this area, making more standard wines.
GENEVA Conventional wisdom says Chasselas is cultivated here, but goes under the
name "Perlan." This is simply to confuse outsiders. There's also a
bit of Müller-Thurgau in this region.
NEUCHÂTEL Okay...here you might find some Pinot Noir of interest. That might be
because they don't grow Gamay in this region. You'll find some pale "blanc de
noir" wine which is typically called "Oeil de Perdrix" (eye of the
partridge).
BERN Mostly Chasselas grown here with a bit of Pinot Noir.
Italian-Speaking Regions
TICINO
Here's an Italian-speaking part of Switzerland to the south
and Merlot is the primary wine. However, there's a few vines of Pinot Noir, Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon, Semillon and Pinot
Gris. Not to mention "nostrani Americani" (even the curiously foxy grape
called "Clinton" is cultivated here!).
German-Speaking Regions
Pinot Noir goes by the name "Blauburgunder" here,
while the white wine of Chasselas takes the name "Gutedel." There's also a
peculiar white grape called "Completer." Production in this northern
region tends to be small and prices rather high, especially for such small wines.
SWISS WINES IN THE
SHOP
ROBERT GILLIARD The Gilliard family has more than a century of experience in
growing vines and making wine...theirs are our most popular Swiss selections
as the firm's products are routinely of good quality.
Gilliard makes a wine called "Les Murettes" which is a "Fendant
Pétillant" and bottled from the lees (spent yeast), somewhat like a
Muscadet from France's Loire Valley.
The vines are grown in slate and granite and you'll find a minerality in the
wine as a result.
$25.99 a bottle.
A good red wine called "Dôle des Monts" is available. It's
a blend of about 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. The Pinot
component dominates and this shows a nice cherry-like character. It's
a smooth, medium-light bodied red.
$32.99 presently.
JEAN-RENÉ GERMANIER
also known as "BON-PERE"
The
brand "Bon Pere" is rather well thought of in Switzerland, the
Germanier family having been winemakers for more than a century. The
firm is located in the town of Vétroz in the heart of the Valais region.
The firm is a proponent of organic farming practices, according to what I've
read.
Vines average about 35 years of age and yields are kept to
"sensible" levels. A very fine Syrah (best Swiss red I've
tasted, I think) is cropped about 35 hectoliters per hectare. On the
other hand, Chasselas yields are more than double...no wonder its wine is
less intense.
CAYAS Syrah du Valais is from the 2004 vintage. The wine is
matured in French oak, half of which is new. I find the wine to be
more elegant than many Rhône Syrahs, but still with nice spice, red fruit
aromas and flavors and a finish that lingers nicely. It is not cheap,
but if you've seen the price of Swiss chocolate or time-pieces, it's
actually reasonable.
Fly SwissAir's business class and you'll likely be offered a glass of the
Fendant "Vétroz Les Terrasses." The wine is made entirely
of Chasselas and shows lovely fruit...reminiscent of white flowers and a
hint of a minerally note. Dry and light.
Dôle
"Balavaud" is a typical blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. It
shows aromas of both...some cherry notes, along with strawberries.
Dry, I don't find much wood here. Smooth, it's best served at cool
cellar temp.
Currently in stock: 2004 SYRAH $33.99
DÔLE Balavaud ROUGE $20.99
2007 FENDANT $21.99
Chateau d'Auvernier Neuchâtel $22.99
Medium bodied,
fairly delicate little dry white wine. The wine comes from a vineyard
site overlooking the Lake of Neuchâtel. The soils are of limestone
and the wine is slightly reminiscent of a delicate white from Burgundy.
Best with delicate, simple seafood or
mildly-smoked fish. It's entirely Chasselas, of course. It
is one of our more popular offerings. Many people seem to enjoy
this with Raclette...though it's fine with light seafood dishes, too.
H. Badoux "Aigle les Murailles" $39.99
One of the most famous wines in Switzerland, this is the one
depicting a small lizard (I don't think that's a food pairing suggestion,
though let me know if you do try this combination of vittles and vino).
Aigle comes from the Chablais area of the Vaud and is made entirely of
Chasselas.
TESTUZ Dézaley is located on the shores of Lake Geneva
between Lausanne and Montreux. Some 13 generations of the Testuz
family have been "toiling" in the vineyards and this may account
for why they make a nice bottle of wine. They've had years to perfect
the 'recipe.'
Their Dézaley wine is considered a "grand cru" (L'Arbalète being
the particular designation of this).
It's made entirely of Chasselas grown on a steep vineyard site that has
rather slatey sub-soils.
The wine is dry, mildly minerally with a hint of a honeyed note with a
faintly floral tone.
Sadly it's costly, but we still have customers who buy a bottle or two of
this for their Swiss dining (and wining) pleasure.
Currently in stock: TESTUZ "DÉZALEY"
Grand Cru L'ARBALÈTE" $45.99 (we keep but a couple of
bottles in the shop, typically...give us some advance notice if you need a
quantity of this!)
Spaghetti Cultivation...Harvest time!
And if you have not seen this excellent video on the Swiss
cultivation of Spaghetti, do treat yourself to this educational presentation.
Gilliard makes a wine called "Les Murettes" which is a "Fendant
Pétillant" and bottled from the lees (spent yeast), somewhat like a
Muscadet from France's Loire Valley.
The
brand "Bon Pere" is rather well thought of in Switzerland, the
Germanier family having been winemakers for more than a century. The
firm is located in the town of Vétroz in the heart of the Valais region.
Dôle
"Balavaud" is a typical blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. It
shows aromas of both...some cherry notes, along with strawberries.
Dry, I don't find much wood here. Smooth, it's best served at cool
cellar temp.
Medium bodied,
fairly delicate little dry white wine. The wine comes from a vineyard
site overlooking the Lake of Neuchâtel. The soils are of limestone
and the wine is slightly reminiscent of a delicate white from Burgundy.
One of the most famous wines in Switzerland, this is the one
depicting a small lizard (I don't think that's a food pairing suggestion,
though let me know if you do try this combination of vittles and vino).
Aigle comes from the Chablais area of the Vaud and is made entirely of
Chasselas.
TO
INQUIRE ABOUT A WINE: