2004 NAPA CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
A Blind-Tasting Comparison
March 19, 2008
Notes by
Gerald Weisl,
wine merchant
With Napa Cabernet Sauvignon wines costing a
small fortune, we assembled a set of wines ranging in price from $40 on the low
end (many Napa vintners consider that price-point as 'house wine') to $180.
Three wines came primarily from the same vineyard source and two wines are made
by the same winemaker.
The distribution of scores showed one wine slightly ahead of the group.
Three wines finished in a tie for second place, a few points behind the
leader. The tie is broken by the greater number of first place votes.
Our last place wine finished well behind the group, despite having praise heaped
on it from several critical journals.
We wondered if the critics are blinded (somewhat) by the perceived fame of a
winery or winemaker. Was our bottle 'flawed' in some way? (It was
purchased from the designated distributor two months prior to the
tasting.) Do the critics truly taste "blind"? Are they
impressed by the supposedly fine vineyard source, 'celebrity' winemaker or the
huge price? Are they offered samples different from the wines actually
sold? Do they simply prefer bigger, more massive wine?
How can we "mistake" a wine rated a "94" by The Wine
Advocate's Robert Parker and rank this last? More than half the tasters
pegged the ambitiously-priced Paul Hobbs' wine as their last-place wine.
Our perspective may be different from some of the critics...we taste the wines
"blind" and really don't care if the bottle carries a hefty price tag
or has the fingerprints of a famous winemaker. I'm sure you'd hear a
similar sentiment from the various critics.

Here's what we found:
The Wines |
Gerald's Rank |
Ellen's Rank |
Bob's Rank |
GROUP Rank |
Total Points |
1sts/2nds/
Lasts |
FISHER
2004
Napa
Coach Insignia
$75 |
3 |
3 |
2 |
4 |
64 |
1/3/0 |
FLEMING JENKINS
2004
Napa
Valley
Choreography
$50
52%CS 26%M 13%CF 7%PV 2% Malbec |
1 |
1 |
4 |
2 |
64 |
4/2/2 |
GOTT
2004
Napa
Valley
Sarahs Mtier
$40 |
4 |
5 |
3 |
5 |
71 |
0/3/0 |
PAUL HOBBS
2004
Napa
Valley
Stagecoach Vineyard
$180 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
8 |
117 |
1/0/9 |
SIGNORELLO
2004
Napa
Valley
Estate Grown
$40 |
7 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
83 |
2/0/1 |
STEWART CELLARS
2004
Napa
Valley
$60 |
5 |
2 |
1 |
1 |
58 |
5/4/2 |
SURH LUCHTEL
2004
Napa
Valley
Stagecoach Vineyard
$60 |
2 |
6 |
6 |
3 |
64 |
2/4/0 |
TERRA VALENTINE
2004
Napa
Valley-Spring
Mountain
Yverdon Vineyard
$72 |
6 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
91 |
2/1/2 |
8th Place: PAUL HOBBS 2004 Napa Valley "Stagecoach Vineyard"
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Winemaker's Notes:
We have been releasing a vineyard designate wine made from select
blocks of this intriguing, high elevation vineyard for four vintages
now. The Cabernet Sauvignon we produce from it has a wonderful sinewy
texture and a distinct balance of ripe, focused, high-toned fruit and
acidity that create a gorgeously structured wine. The 2004 displays a
deep blackish crimson color accompanied by aromas of cassis, lavender
and underbrush. The palate boasts excellent fruit purity; layers of
blackberry, currant and red licorice intermix with earthy tones of
espresso and fresh tobacco. Tannins are chewy and the finish long and
slightly smoky. Alcohol 14.7%
The Wine Advocate review:
A cuvee needing some bottle age is the
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard. This broodingly backward,
deep ruby/purple-hued effort gives up scents of crushed rocks, smoky
oak, blackberries, and cassis. Powerful and rich with exceptional
concentration and structure, it requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and
should drink well over the next two decades or more. 94 Points - Robert
Parker
The Wine Spectator Review:
Very ripe yet
well-proportioned, with rich, zesty black cherry and wild berry fruit
that's fleshy and opulent, turning elegant and refined. 534 cases
made. 92 Points
- James Laube, Wine Spectator
|
Despite the glowing reviews above from the winemaker and a
couple of critics, we found this bottle to be of poor quality. Most
tasters commented on the over-ripe aspect of the wine. One taster cracked
"It's a lovely bottle of Port," while another described this as having
a "vodka-like ferocity. It's rather alcoholic." Someone
else found "ethyl acetate" and another person found "bitter
tannins and the wine is hollow." A final voice mentioned finding
"over-ripe fruit and a spoilage note."
On my first pass through the wines I found a ripe raspberry fragrance to this
wine, but as I came back to it, the wine took on a more ripe, jammy, raisiny
quality. The wine seemed big, fat and a bit flat. It's hardly a
grand bottle of Cabernet. We don't know if this sample is representative
of the bottling and at $180 a bottle, we will not be finding out. No stars
on my three star scale.

7th Place: TERRA VALENTINE 2004 Napa Valley/Spring Mountain
District "Yverdon Vineyard" CABERNET SAUVIGNON
More than three decades ago, one of the best bottles of Napa Cabernet
came from Fred Aves' "Yverdon" vineyard and winery on Spring
Mountain. There were two bottlings, Cask 88 being the grand vin. We
were interested to see if this wine lived up to that legendary bottle and,
sadly, it did not. The first tasters mentioned adjectives such as
"sugary, syrupy, floral, jammy and flat." Someone else found
"Santa Rosa plums, black tea, star anise and it's less tannic than
most." One if its proponents described this as "Extracted but a
bit dumb on the nose to start. It's got nice, herbal, sweet fruit and good
varietal character. It was rich on the palate." A detractor
asked "Where's the fruit? The high tannin level here closes
this."
Medium ruby red in color, this wine offers nice red fruit fragrances and
hints of mint on the nose. I found a light bit of oak to its
bouquet. Dry and medium-full bodied on the palate, I found the wine
to be a bit hot. It's got good, dark fruit flavors and mildly grippy
tannins. Reasonably deep, though. One-and-a-half stars.

6th Place: SIGNORELLO 2004 Napa Valley "Estate"
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
One taster described Signorello's wine as having "Bright fruit on
the nose and lots of 'Napa' character, but I was bothered by a lifesaver candy
tone. It's like there's an artificially fruity quality here."
Someone else "hated this wine at the start but it got better over the
course of the tasting. It's quite tannic." Another panel member
found it to be "quite oaky and reliant on the wood. There's
sufficient fruit here, though." One taster liked "...the exotic
nose and tangerine peel and peach-like tones. There's not enough acidity,
though, to carry the fruit along with the high level of tannins."
The nose of this wine seemed more developed or open compared to the rest of
the field. There's a touch of mint or a resiny note. This seemed
extremely tannic and coarse as the tannins are aggressive. Good fruit
which may allow the wine to develop in a few years, but it's rather harsh
presently. One star at the moment...

5th Place: GOTT 2004 Napa Valley "Sarah's
Metier" CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Finishing in the middle of the pack, the Gott wine was described as
having "Brettanomyces and leathery fragrances with tobacco and strawberry
tones. It's the fullest and fattest wine of the tasting with chocolate,
coffee and a sour cherry finish." An old-timer said it "reminded
me of old Louis Martini Cabernets with a hint of dust, tar and leathery
Brett." Another person found it "quite complex," while a
final voice felt this "improved in the glass."
With medium ruby color, the initial perfumes were of vanilla with nice woodsy
notes and some red fruit tones. It's a pleasant, medium-bodied red wine
with some elegance and refinement. Yes, it could be likened to Louis
Martini Cabernets from the 1950s through the mid-1970s...it's nicely balanced on
the palate and seems to have good length, too. In an era when so many
vintners "push the envelope" (as with the Hobbs wine above), it's
rather refreshing to see a wine which tries to emphasize finesse. This may
do well with a few more years of cellaring. One-and-a-half stars.

4th Place: FISHER VINEYARDS 2004 Napa "Coach Insignia"
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
"Sweet herbal fruit up front," said one taster, "with a
slightly grassy note. It's round, a bit tannic and extracted with an
exotic aspect to its fruit." A second voice found "violets on
the nose with green pepper flavors on the palate." A third critic
described this as "Bordelaise in style with some herbaceous and dusty notes
and coffeeish tones. It's a really nice, generous Cabernet with a bit of
finesse."
Medium-deep ruby in color, I found lots of red berry fruit in Fisher's Coach
Insignia. There's a hint of cassis and light oak as well. The wine
features dark fruit on the palate and it's a medium-full-bodied. I liked
the fruit-to-tannin balance here and I felt it's a fairly elegant bottle.
Drinkable now and through 2015, or so, I gave this a one-and-a-half star rating.

3rd Place: SURH LUCHTEL 2004 Napa Valley "Stagecoach
Vineyard" CABERNET SAUVIGNON
A number of tasters reacted to the tannin in this Surh Luchtel
wine. One critic described this as "bitter," while another felt
"The tannins hung in there and it's too astringent." "Way
too tannic," chimed in another taster. Urging patience was one taster
who said "it's a lively wine and there's a lot of flavor here."
Someone else felt the wine "needs more fruit for this level of
tannin." A final voice described the Surh Luchtel Cabernet as
"having a lot of dill-like flavors."
Medium ruby in color, I was really enchanted by the nose of this wine as it
showed a lot of red and black fruits. There's a cedary aspect to the
perfume and some brown spice fragrances. It's a medium-bodied Cabernet
with nice balance. I didn't find it especially tannic and described it as
not being a blockbuster style. I liked the depth and length of the wine as
it had a rather long finish. Three to eight years of cellaring potential,
I gave this a one-and-a-half star rating.

2nd Place: FLEMING JENKINS 2004 Napa Valley
"CHOREOGRAPHY" RED WINE
One panel member encountered "a dose of Calvados in this wine as I
found it to be really spirity on the nose." Another critic described
the Fleming Jenkins wine as "unusual...it's more angular and tasted a bit
skinny. There's an odd petroleum character on the nose here."
Someone else agreed, saying they, too, "found a whiff of petrol and I
marked it down for this." A final taster said it's "bitter and
tannic."
What others described as petroleum notes, I was characterizing as anise and
black fruit. I liked the sweet oak of this wine, too. I'd tasted it
on a couple of other occasions and not paid much attention to the wine. In
this line-up the wine excelled, showing a charming personality and, for me, a
lot of complexity. It's medium-full on the palate with lots of bright,
berryish flavors. I found cedary and minty elements here, too. Good
length and a nice finish. Good now-2012, or so. Two stars+. Impressive.

1st place: STEWART CELLARS 2004 Napa Valley CABERNET SAUVIGNON
"There's nice, ripe fruit and a coffee note with hints of licorice
and fresh nutmeg. Cola and spearmint tones, too. Mildly
bitter." said one panel member. A couple of other tasters didn't
think this would cellar well, being rather immediately drinkable.
"It's structure is suspect." said one taster.
For being the first place wine, there were not many contributors in
describing this wine. Interestingly, this is the work of winemaker Paul
Hobbs, whose own wine finished dead last. It comes, primarily, from the
same grower, Stagecoach Vineyard. The color is deep ruby and the nose is
of a classic Napa Cabernet. I found red fruits with some charming, woodsy
notes on the nose. It's medium-full bodied and no-where near as
over-the-top ripe as Hobb's own wine. The flavors offer lots of dark fruit
character and a pleasantly cedary flavor. Mildly tannic, this is nice now
and I suspect it will be fine for three to eight more years.
One-and-a-half stars.


Please note: The wines tasted are not always wines
we have (or have had) in the shop.
Many bottles are merely for our enological exploration.
Price quoted are current at the time of the tasting, but may be different
when you're reading this. |
WE HAVE NOT ORGANIZED A TASTING IN A WHILE...
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Send us a note to indicate your interest in participating.
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2004 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS April 25, 2007
WASHINGTON
STATE CLARETS April, 11, 2007
2004
NORTHERN RHONE SYRAHS April 4, 2007
2001
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO March 28, 2007
2001
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 8, 2006
2003
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 18, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPES-Flight #2 October 4, 2006
OLDER
TUSCAN REDS--MOSTLY SANGIOVESES September 20, 2006
2003
NAPA CABERNETS July 19, 2006
2003
SAINT EMILIONS July 12, 2006
CALIFORNIA
SYRAHS 2003-2004 July 5, 2006
2004
CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS June 21, 2006
GRAND
CRU BURGUNDIES 2003 VINTAGE May 31, 2006
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 CABERNETS & 1990 BORDEAUX May 17, 2006
SOUTH
AMERICAN CLARETS May 10, 2006
2003
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE May 3, 2006
2004
GOLDEN STATE PINOT NOIRS April 19, 2006
2002
NAPA CABERNETS March 15, 2006
2003
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2006
2003
NORTH COAST ZINFANDELS March 1, 2006
1996
BURGUNDIES vs. 1997 SONOMA PINOT NOIRS November 9, 2005
2002
CABERNETS, ETC. November 2, 2005
2002 NAPA
CABERNETS October 19, 2005
2002
GRAND CRU BURGUNDIES September 14, 2005
2002
RED BURGUNDIES September 7, 2005
2002
MEURSAULTS August 31, 2005
NORTHERN
RHNE SYRAHS August 17, 2005
HIGHLY-REGARDED AUSSIE
SHIRAZ August 10, 2005
AUSSIE SHIRAZ UNDER
$60 August 3, 2005
STUPIDLY-PRICED
SPANISH TEMPRANILLO WINES June 8, 2005
RANDOM
CALIFORNIA SYRAHS June 1, 2005
2002
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS May 18, 2005
2001
NAPA CABERNETS May 11, 2005
OREGON
PINOT NOIRS-2002 & 2003 VINTAGE WINES April 27, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1990 BURGUNDIES and a COUPLE OF CALIFORNIA PINOTS April 6, 2005
CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS (Mostly 2002s) MARCH 16, 2002
1999
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 9, 2005
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS March 2, 2005
PETITE
SIRAHS February 16, 2005
ROS CHAMPAGNES AND
CALIFORNIA PINK BUBBLIES February 9, 2005
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1991 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS January 19, 2005
2001
FAMOUS AND INFAMOUS CABERNETS November 10, 2004
2001
Napa CABERNETS November 3, 2004
WEST
COAST SYRAHS October 20, 2004
1990
RED BORDEAUX & CALIFORNIA CLARETS October 13, 2004
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLOS of 1999 & 2000 September 29, 2004
2002
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET September 8, 2004
2002
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET September 1, 2004
UNDER
THE RADAR PINOT NOIRS August 18, 2004
2001
SAINT-JULIEN & PAUILLACS July 21, 2004
2001
MARGAUX July 14, 2004
CELLAR
DWELLERS: 1982 BORDEAUX July 7, 2004
2001 POMEROLS
June 30, 2004
2001
SAINT MILIONS June 16, 2004
2000
CLOS de VOUGEOT (and a ringer) MAY 12, 2004
2001
OREGON PINOT NOIRS May 5, 2004
2001
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS April 21, 2004
1994
WEST COAST CABERNETS APRIL 14, 2004
1999-2000 BORDEAUX COMPARISON
March 10, 2004
1999
BAROLO March 3, 2004
2000
Deluxe Napa CABERNETS February 18, 2004
2000
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS $50 & Under February 11, 2004
1998 BRUNELLO
DI MONTALCINO February 4, 2004
TURLEY
ZINFANDELS 1995 & 1999 Vintages January 7, 2004
2000
PRESTIGIOUS WEST COAST CABERNETS November 12, 2003
1999
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS November 5, 2003
SANTA
LUCIA HIGHLANDS PINOT NOIRS October 29, 2003
MOSTLY
2001 VINTAGE GIGONDAS October 22, 2003
SPANISH
TEMPRANILLO WINES October 9, 2003
SPARKLING
WINES-METHODE CHAMPENOISE October 1, 2003
1996
(Mostly) AUSTRALIAN (Mostly) SHIRAZ September 24, 2003
2000
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES September 10, 2003
PRIORATO
WINES FROM SPAIN September 3, 2003
WEST
COAST SANGIOVESES August 27, 2003
2000
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (Mostly Premier Cru Wines) August 13, 2003
2000
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY August 6, 2003
2000
NAPA CABERNETS July 30, 2003
1999
TUSCAN SANGIOVESE-BASED WINES July 23, 2003
2000
VINTAGE MERLOTS July 9, 2003
SYRAHS
FROM HITHER & YON July 2, 2003
2001 CALIFORNIA
ZINFANDELS June 25, 2003
NEW
PINOT NOIRS June 4, 2003
1999
NAPA CABERNETS May 28, 2003
1994
PINOT NOIRS May 14, 2003
CHILEAN
CLARETS May 7, 2003
PETITE
SIRAHS of Current Release.
April 30, 2003
1999
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHETS Premier Cru Selections April 9, 2003
1999
GRAND CRU'S of GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN April 2, 2003
1999-2000 SOUTHERN FRENCH REDS (RHONE
WANNABE'S) MARCH 26, 2003
1995-1996
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE TASTING MARCH 12, 2003
2000
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE TASTING MARCH 5, 2003
2000
NAPA VALLEY CABERNET TASTING FEBRUARY 26th, 2003
1990
FRENCH RED BURGUNDY TASTING February 12, 2003
1999
& 2000 CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIRS November 13, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS November 6, 2002
1997
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO OCTOBER 30, 2002
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING OCTOBER 23, 2002
1999
CHATEAUNEUF-du-PAPE TASTING October 9, 2002
1999
NAPA CABERNETS September 25, 2002
1999
WASHINGTON STATE CABERNETS September 11, 2002
1991
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS September 4, 2002
1999
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1er Cru Tasting August 28, 2002
AUSTRALIAN
CABERNETS (Mostly 1999s) August 14, 2002
1999
FRENCH BURGUNDY July 24, 2002
1999
GRAVES BLANC July 10, 2002
2000
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY July 3, 2002
1999/2000
CONDRIEU TASTING June 26, 2002
1999
PAUILLAC & SAINT JULIEN TASTING June 12, 2002
1999
MARGAUX TASTING June 5, 2002
1985
CABERNETS & MEDOC TASTING May 29, 2002
1998
California CABERNETS May 22, 2002
South
American MALBEC May 8, 2002
1999
West Coast MERLOTS May 1, 2002
Central
Coast (California) PINOT NOIRS April 24, 2002
2001
Southern Hemisphere SAUVIGNON BLANCS April 10, 2002
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDELS April 3, 2002
1999
FRENCH RHÔNE SYRAHS February 13, 2002
(Mostly) 1999 CALIFORNIA SYRAHS January 30,
2002
MORE
1997 BAROLO January 23, 2002
1997
Late-Released CABERNETS January 9, 2002
1997
BAROLO October 24, 2001
1985-1990
RED BURGUNDIES October 10, 2001
1998
Grand Crus of Gevrey Chambertin October 3, 2001
PRIORAT
WINES September 26, 2001
1998
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE September 12, 2001
1999
"High Roller" CHARDONNAYS September 5, 2001
1998
BORDEAUX August 22, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS August 8, 2001
1997
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
Tasting August 1, 2001
1999
CALIFORNIA ZINS July 25, 2001
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
July 11, 2001
OLD
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS June 6, 2001
1997 ECHEZEAUX May 30, 2001
1999 NORTH
COAST ZINFANDELS May 23, 2001
1999
West Coast Merlots May 9, 2001
1999
WEST COAST PINOT NOIRS May 2, 2001
1997
BARBARESCO April 25, 2001
Mostly RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIRS
April 11, 2001
1997
NAPA CABERNETS April 4, 2001
1995
BRUNELLO di MONTALCINO March 28, 2001
1997 CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY &
MOREY SAINT DENIS
with one 1996...March 14, 2001
1997
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN March 7, 2001
1996
BAROLO February 28, 2001
1978-1979
California Cabernets January 10, 2001
1997
California Cabernets November 8, 2000
1997
TUSCAN SANGIOVESES November 1, 2000
1997-1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
& CALIFORNIA WANNABEEs October 25, 2000
Mostly 1998 PINOT NOIRS
October 11, 2000
1996
CALIFORNIA CABERNETS October 4, 2000
MATURE
CLARETS September 27, 2000
1997
RED BORDEAUX September 13, 2000
1997 NAPA CABERNETS
September 6, 2000
1998
CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAYS August 30, 2000
1997 CLOS DE VOUGEOTS August 23,
2000
PETITE
SIRAH & SYRAH (West Coast) August 9, 2000
FANCY
CALIFORNIA MERLOTS August 2, 2000
1996
FAMOUS CALIFORNIA CABERNETS June 14, 2000
WEST
COAST SYRAHS June 7, 2000
1997 CABERNETS May 31,
2000
VIOGNIERS
of RECENT VINTAGE May 24, 2000
1997-1998
ZINFANDELS May 10, 2000
SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE CLARETS May 3, 2000
1996
California CABERNETS April 12, 2000
1996
FRENCH RED BURGUNDIES March 29, 2000
CALIFORNIA
vs ITALIAN (Tuscan) SANGIOVESE March 22, 2000
WEST COAST
PINOT NOIRS March 8, 2000
AUSSIE
SHIRAZ TASTING March 1, 2000
FRENCH
CHAMPAGNES (NV BRUTS) January 5, 2000
1996
BORDEAUX (MEDOC) TASTING November 10, 1999
CABERNET-INFLUENCED VINI FROM
ITALY November 3, 1999
CABERNETS OF THE WORLD
TASTING October 27, 1999

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